godzilla_753

Not to offend the op but yeah this was the only way I considered it feasable, welding the head and all seemed a little dodgy to me, and plus I dont have a tig welder handy. If I had to do it again I would have the flanges laser cut and tapped with threads, we attempted to tap them ourselves but I dont know if we just suck at it or our tap set is old, we couldnt get them tapped correctly to accepts the studs. We ended up getting oversized studs and using nuts on both ends to tighten everything down. Another point to make is that the RB25 plenum doesnt leave the head straight out, most of those runners we had to cut all the way down to the flange and weld our own pipe to it. Was fairly tricky and time consuming to match up all the runners so that they left the head straight out and met the flanges correctly.

Not sure if Im understanding you correctly mate but I chopped off the runners of the stock 25 plenum and welded up some flanges to accepts the 26 throttles. After that its all a bolt on affair, well relatively, still had to figure out the tps and aac valve and all that. Runs great tho, nistune on the way from australia and I should have some good numbers to post up soon.

I did something similiar NEO head with rb26 throttles heres a pic, sorry the engine bay looks a complete mess ...will be fixing that as soon as i get a few other things sorted out And this is whats going on it ...What do you guys think of the GT3071r with .64 rear housing? would it be too small?

Hey mates, Im not sure what the rules are about posting links to other forums so I will hold off on that, but I just wanted to let everyone know theres a group buy going on on a different forum (in the US) that you guys who are looking for good cheap engine management can benefit from. Also Im in no way affiliated with nistune or anything, just wanted to help my fellow mates out!! Ill get in touch with a mod and see if linking is ok

So being the genius I am, changed the timing belt and decided to leave the plastic front cover off so I could see my cool greddy belt. Now my car wont start and ive pretty much narrowed it down to the cas, which got damaged due to not spacing it out when I took the cover off to account for the thickness. The cas wheel was bent when I took it off and metal shavings were all over it so im guessin its stuffed. If you can please help me out and send me a CAS for a reasonable price please contact me at [email protected] I hardly get on here anymore but will try and periodically check to see if anyones replied. I appreciate the help mates, Ive been working on this car for over a year and thought id have it on the road soon but alas my stupidy wont let it happen. Cheers

Hi mates, Looking to purchase a used cluster, please email me or PM me for any leads. Any KM's ok, even mildly rough condition is ok Please let me know what you guys have! email : [email protected] Thanks!

Hi mates, Im over here in the US, and just recently did the Neo6 swap from a stagea into my car. I was looking to get the gauges running corectly so I bought a cluster from overseas. The cluster came with the pigtails but I have had some trouble finding a pin out diagram. Can anyone point me to a diagram outlining each wire and its function? Im pretty good with diagrams usually, and wiring, if someone could get me anything helpful, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

gave the pin power and looks like its working, pin 48 is putting out 5 volts to the tps as it should. Now the only thing wrong is my maf wiring seems to be wrong. The car runs without it plugged in, but as soon as i plug it in the engine starts to sputter and die

Haha I am actually located in Texas, in the US. I went out and tested the voltages that the TPS is sending back to the computer and its something like 3v at close and almost 8 at full throttle. this is with the car on and engine running. I tried adjusting the tps down but I only got it to send at a minimum of 2.6v at close throttle. Isnt the tps supposed to see 12v on the + wire?

been working on a the engine trying to get it wired up correctly. I have got it started now and it seems like it doesn't want to run right. Problems: very low idle, almost dies gauge is showing little/no vacuum (this might have to do with my homemade vacuum block) running super rich doesnt want to rev up When I unplug the maf it runs much better, idle raises up and it revs much more smoothly but stops at 2500 rpm like it should. As soon as i plug the maf back in it drops down again to 300 rpm or so and wants to die again. I was thinking maybe the maf wiring or maf itself are bad? what would cause it to want to die and not idle?

Im pretty tired of trying to get this thing running, and im sure everyones tired of seeing my posts. Im just gonna give it 12v switched on pin 31 and see what happens. Lets hope I dont burn up the computer. On the other hand, I adapted a GTR intake manifold with ITB's onto my rb25 so if I do get this thing running, expect some posts and pics on that little project (assuming the thing doesn't leak).

right mate, I remembered to go back and reread. I decided to dig deeper in my loom for a green with orange stripe and couldn't find anything inside the cabin. I then went to the other side of the firewall towards the engine, and found a wire that appeared to be heading into the ecu but was cut short. It is a green with orange stripe, with silver marks every 3 or 4 inches. Can anyone confirm that this is the wire? As it sits, there isnt any 12v ignition going to that wire. Maybe someone pulled the wire out of the loom and cut it out? should i be able to see any kind of damage or knicks on the plastic connector if someone did indeed de-pin the plug? If this is the wire that should have led to pin 31 Im presuming I can put 12v ignition feed on the wiring and put it back on pin 31. Can anyone crack open their kickpanel and confirm the silver marks on the wire?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us this is the joint connector I was talking about. 43 goes to the ECU and provides ground to the wires on the (-) side. on the positive side of the clip on pin 4,5,6,7 i should see 12v. 48 is listed as power supply. checked the wires on this side and this fed ignition to the TPS, didnt have time to check where exactly the other 2 wires went. but they are all grey with a blue stripe. I have a picture of the actual joint connector im talking about just in case anyones confused. Its brown, ill upload it tonight. the joint connector is def hooked up, no wires are cut and its shouldve worked as is. 2 questions: -does the ecu provide the ground for these sensors? I didnt see any of the (-) side of the joint connector going to the chassis. this means that the ecu grounds this connector. -since 48 isnt providing 12v, can I cut 48 from the ecu and just provide my own 12v switched. in all i think it comes back to pin 31, which is listed as ignition power supply. Since my plug has nothing there, maybe the pin was pulled out or something? could this pin be the reason why all the wires on the joint connector is not getting any voltage? I looked super hard at the plug and under close scrutiny, it seems there is a really small nick in the plastic surrounding pin31. Is it likely the pin was removed and then the wire removed from the loom? Anyone know what color the wire should be? I can try and hunt the wire by its wire color.

that makes sense, Ill go back and look it over. but to be clear, its possible that pin 43 isnt grounding my sensors causing them not to work? I thought the tps saw 12v, sent a signal back to the ecu, and third wire is a ground (pin 43). so this means that one of the wires on the cts is a ground and the other a signal feed to the ecu? the sensor never sees above signal voltage then correct?

i see, 5 volts you say? The thing is im a little confused to as how the ecu sees this signal. Pin 48 seems to feed power to a + block from wich a bunch of wires come off, including those that run to the coolant temp sensor and TPS. I would think that the computer feeds 12v to the CTS, and then as temp rises and resistance inside the sensor decreases the voltages sent back to the ecu are read respectively. On the diagram though, it shows one of the CTS wires as being grounded and the other pink wire going to a pin on the ecu labeled as CTS signal. Can you confirm wich case is right? I hooked up a multimeter to test voltages and nothing is registered on either the TPS or CTS. I believe the wiring continuous, so the problem lies near the computer side of the loom. somewhere there is a ground or + missing causing both the TPS, CTS, boost pressure sensor etc to not work. I think their is probably a common wire somewhere no?

well sorry to bump my old thread but it seems this has more good information for future neo swappers. I separated out the wiring and actually got it running, but only without the maf unplugged. Now the engine isnt getting any voltage to the tps and coolant temp sensor. according to schematic posted in this thread. It seems that pin 48 should give power to the TPS, refrigerant pressure sensor, and turbo pressure sensor. With a test light, im not getting any volts to the any of these. in addition, my coolant temp sensor isnt being grounded by ecu pin 43. This ground wire also plays a role in providing ground to the tps, rps, turbo pressure sensor, and ring gear crankshaft position sensor. When i start the car it seems to be running very rich, and doesnt hold idle at all unless i hold the throttle open. when i unplug the maf it idles high but is in limp mode. Anyone have any ideas why those sensors are missing power and ground? Pin 48 seems to go into a bridge connector that provides power to all these sensors, and there isnt any power there. what should i do about this? would it be smart to cut 48 and just provide my own 12v?

Hi, I wasnt sure where to post this, but I figured I would give it a go in this subforum. If there is a better place to put it, mods please do so. I have a stagea r34 NEO rb25 that ive been working on for the past few months. Having done most of the wiring myself I got the car to start and idle but there seems to be one or two small things left. On my ecu loom, the plastic clip is missing a wire on pin 31, which on most wiring pinouts has it labeled as having something to do with the ignition relay. If I ground the brown ignition relay myself the car will start but Nissan designed the relay to switch to ground through the ecu. This must mean that the ecu is not getting a signal from some input causing it to not ground the relay. Here is a pinout for the ecu: https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B9Awbp ... ist&num=50 Does anyone know what input im missing? Why does my loom not have this pin? I asked around a few months ago and it seemed someone else also had a computer with no wire on pin 31 making me believe I might be using the wrong pinout. Everyone always says the R34 GTT and Stagea wiring diagrams are the same so I am very confused on what to do now. I was told that if i supply my own ground as I have been doing, there is a chance I would burn up the ECU. Another option I have is to put my own pin in there and give it 12V. Im pretty scared to do that though, because I bought this as a whole front clip, and it obviously ran before so I dont want to start experimenting. I obviously would like to get the issue fixed since it seems like a small one, so any help would greatly be appreciate. thanks!

Hi, I wasnt sure where to post this, but I figured I would give it a go in this subforum. If there is a better place to put it, mods please do so. I have a stagea r34 NEO rb25 that ive been working on for the past few months. Having done most of the wiring myself I got the car to start and idle but there seems to be one or two small things left. On my ecu loom, the plastic clip is missing a wire on pin 31, which on most wiring pinouts has it labeled as having something to do with the ignition relay. If I ground the brown ignition relay myself the car will start but Nissan designed the relay to switch to ground through the ecu. This must mean that the ecu is not getting a signal from some input causing it to not ground the relay. Here is a pinout for the ecu: https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B9Awbp ... ist&num=50 Does anyone know what input im missing? Why does my loom not have this pin? I asked around a few months ago and it seemed someone else also had a computer with no wire on pin 31 making me believe I might be using the wrong pinout. Everyone always says the R34 GTT and Stagea wiring diagrams are the same so I am very confused on what to do now. I was told that if i supply my own ground as I have been doing, there is a chance I would burn up the ECU. Another option I have is to put my own pin in there and give it 12V. Im pretty scared to do that though, because I bought this as a whole front clip, and it obviously ran before so I dont want to start experimenting. I obviously would like to get the issue fixed since it seems like a small one, so any help would greatly be appreciate. thanks!

ive been getting into it again, and i got it started but the only thing is since my pin 31 on the ecu isnt seeing 12v from the ignition relay the brown relay isnt triggering. If i ground the relay myself it clicks and i am able to start the car. It all comes back to that pin 31, has anyone got an idea on why my loom doesnt have it? can anyone check and see what color they have at pin 31? maybe someone pulled mine out and cut it, it could be just hanging there in the loom. If thats the case i can re insert it in the ecu plug and go on with my life. if anyone can please check the wire color on pin 31 i would really appreciate it. edit: i just realized its already been said in the thread. either way im still hung up, if 31 isnt the pin that sees 12v from the ignition relay then what is? It was said that i have a 8/98 to 8/99 wc34 manual ecu, does anyone have a pinout for this specific ecu?

thanks, im gonna redo some of it, ill get back with results

yeah car was bought as half cut, and it had already been swapped, so wiring isnt 100% original. Ive got power to the coilpacks now, but what tells them to fire? the CAS? none of my engine ancillaries are powered up, as in the o2 sensor, CAS, MAF, AAC, etc. everything is dead, is there some common wire that powers up these components?

I tried giving pin 49 12v switched and nothing. i also seperated the maf, tps, and cas ground wires and grounded them directly to chassis and still nothing. I dont think my ignitors are firing. also, i have 2 relays near the ecu, a brown one, and a blue one, can anyone tell me what they are for? my blue one has one pin getting power but the rest were cut (by previous owner).

so is this the correct pinout for the 0V800 and 0V801 ecu's? if im reading this correctly the pins that need 12V: 109-ecu relay 4 -ecu relay 20 -start signal 24 -injector power 49 -ignition switch (this is what powers coilpacks?) 67 -ecu power 72 -ecu power 80 -back up ecu power ground: 25 -ground 32 -ground 43 -ground 44 -cas ground 45 -cas ground 48 -tps ground 55 -maf ground What are these for? 111-F3-44 71 -F3-11 78 -to gray connector 57 -to black connector 17 -F3-5 mind you im swapping the engine into an s13 hatchback, if someone can double check what i have written ill go and give power/ground to those pins. as of right now i have injector pulse, but no ignition, so is pin 49 the one i need to give 12v switched ignition to? thanks

like rubyrs4 my s2 ecu doesnt match up with the pinout in this thread, my pin 31 is missing in the loom "injector power supply" ive been trying to get the car started and i have no spark. I have the 0V800 ecu that came in the 97-98 manual rs4. anyone know where to give power for the coilpacks?

I have power to the injectors so they are presumably sending fuel into the cylinders, (will confirm by cranking and pulling my plug out to see if its wet), but my injectors are completely dead, all 3 wires. Is there a way to give them power bypassing the ecu? or does the ecu send the signal for them to pulse in time.