godzilla_753

ohh i see, is it green and orange? or just green? after you re install the ecu, mind checking with a test light for which wires have power to the ecu? (switched ignition and constant 12v). on the pinout I have, pin 24 is listed as "ignition switch signal" while 31 is listed as "ignition power supply" i dont understand why our pin 31 doesnt have anything, ive looked at a few different pinouts and none show pin 31 missing. would really appreciate the help, my whole swap is hung up on this stupid ecu wiring

new to the forums so cant pm yet, im currently swapping in a rs4 engine to my s13 and was wondering if you could read off your ecu for me, also if you dont mind, can you take a look at pin 31 and see whats there? I wish i could buy something from you, but this swap has given me so many headaches. here is a reference to the pin im talking about https://doc-04-2c-docs.googleusercontent.co...c3uc8mraipalfuu also my ecu reads: TM in big black letters, underneath which is written: [23710 0V800] [A56-K43 L04] [3x26] if you could verify the ecu or the pin color on 31 i would really appreciate it. thanks mate

Hi, Im from the US, i bought a front clip from an importer and it turned out to be a rb25det NEO engine mated to a rb20det tranny installed into r33 gt model (base), so it has already been messed with in terms of wiring. Either way im trying to wire the engine up and having looked at the pinouts, pin 31 seems to be missing from my ecu plug/loom. It is the pin identified as "ignition power supply" im guessing this is what is powered up so that the ecu can send current to the coilpacks. in either case, I dont have this wire in the plug at all, as in there is no wire to splice into or anything, nothing in the clip that goes into the ecu at all. Doesnt look like it was forced out either as ive heard those little pins are hard to pull out. now im thinking 2 things: 1) I have a different ecu that doesnt follow the c34 stagea series 2 pinout, and i need to find the correct pinout. here is the pinout if anyone wants to make sure im using the right one: https://doc-04-2c-docs.googleusercontent.co...c3uc8mraipalfuu 2) The wire was pulled out for some reason, and i should just insert my own wire in there and power up pin 31 on the ecu so that my car will start. now written on the ecu is TM in big black letters, underneath which is written: [23710 0V800] [A56-K43 L04] [3x26] can anyone give me some advice? also can one of you guys crack open their kick panel and see if there is a wire going to pin 31? and if there is, what color it is? much appreciated

thanks, I will most likely get the flange decked to ensure its flat. there is a guy selling me a plenum including the throttle bodies and tps, what else is needed to run the plenum on the 25? do i need the AAC as well?

sorry this might be a little obvious, but the AAC valve attatches to that piece with the 4 studs coming out correct? What is that piece if so?

I was wondering if you still had any RB26 inlet manifolds, im chasing something complete with the sensors and everything thanks

didnt read through the thread, is the stock rb26 intake manifold still available? thank

ahh thanks for the link, thats almost exactly what im talking about doing. except id like to keep the ITB's I like your idea too, welding a flange to the cut runners makes the plenum easily removable if need be and the ports can be matched up better. I dont know if i will go that route simply because i dont have the facilities or knowledge to try and make a flange like that. But like your idea, Instead of a flange, ill be welding in some runners connecting the rb25 oem flange to the gtr itb's and plenum. I wont be able to smooth out any bumps like your idea but, depending on how deep they are i might be able to get in there with a dremel from either the ITB side or the flange side. In either case, i think the plan would work. so far... Can anyone chime in on how to make the AAC valve to work? Im also going to be running Air con on the car, so is there some kind of sensor on the tb that controls the idle for that?

Hi, Im new to the forum, I figured id ask you guys since over here in the states this topic might not get any attention. Please excuse any gaps in knowledge as ive just began the installation of a r-34 Neo engine into my s13. Ive read up on many GTR to RB25 intake threads but no ones seemed to have tried this so far (as far as i can tell) Now i dont have the GTR manifold in front of me, but from what I've read, the main problem seems that the stud pattern is completely different. Adapter plates are available but rare. One guy on here i believe redid his whole head (welded, cut, etc) to fit the GTR plenum. people that have tried to cut the runners on the RB25 plenum and weld them to the 26 intake have said that the runners curve too much, which makes it hard to line up the runners on both manifolds Now I know this may sound a little obvious, but after looking at some greddy inlet manifold for the RB25 it seems they solved the problem of the curving inlets, the 6 inlets on the aftermarket manifold seem to come out straight into the plenum. This made me think that if they did it, why cant it be done to the OEM 25 plenum? My idea is to cut the runners just as they leave the the head so there is no curves, and weld on short straight portions of aluminum runner to basically extend the straight portions of the intake. This should allow the RB26 manifold to be used. This solves the issue of hitting the VTC at the front, and it doesnt move the injectors any farther away from the intake ports. Im not sure about the rest, like the balancer shaft? (not familiar with it) and the vacuum/cooling ports. In addition i dont know how the electronics would work out ( including the IACV). Mechanically my theory looks doable to me though, which is the hard part. Is this a valid theory? To me this seems stupidly obvious, so maybe im missing something here. It seems like the ports are paired up together (groups of 2) on both the 25 and 26 plenums. And they look to be of similiar shape. If someone can confirm what im thinking, ( they have a 26 intake infront of them) I will go ahead and purchase the 26 intake and begin the process. this seems like a stupidly cheap option, as the aluminum needed for this project would be minimal. in addition all of the rb25 injector/rail stuff could be reused. If someone could also chime in on how the rest of the sensors and cooling passages work that would be great. (ill keep researching) any helpful input would be greatly appreciated. thanks