sholm23

Was just about to start a new thread on a similar topic, I need some ford xr6 paint (UU Blueprint) to paint my front bumper. Where does everyone get there paint from? Or is a panel beater the only place to get paint? Not trying to derail. Question is the same, different paint.

I've been doing research on the same topic and interior wise it's all legal. All you need is dash, door trim, no sharp edges and no holes in the cabin. Rear seats can be taken out and left without a mod plate as long as the seat belts are still there but it's alot easier if you just get it mod plated to a 2 seater. "For vehicles fitted with bolt in seating structures, no approval by an Approved Person is necessary for the temporary removal of seats, provided the category of the vehicle does not change as a result of the seating reduction." http://www.tmr.qld.g...torvehicles.pdf Just try and keep it as safe and simple as possible. If it looks like a shit box then you'll get all kinds of the wrong attention. Also, have a look through the transport website...

Yeh thats true. Weight loss comes down to purely nutrition. Add in some exercise and you can pull off fat loss.

Cycling is great for knees, depending on the injury. I snapped my ACL and totally screwed up other parts of my knee (on the bike) and the only thing stopping me from riding again was range of movement. I'm now on the bike again and it's the only physical thing i can do properly. It feels great! It's also good for losing weight but you have to put some effort in because it's very easy to just pedal along and not even break a sweat. I ride offroad alot and it's great for getting the heart rate to 200 (burns like hell haha) and for both leg and upper body strength. But again it depends how/where you ride and how much effort you put in. I hate running, always have and at the moment i can only run for very short periods before my knee blows up (about 6 months post op) but everything and anything on the bike is perfect! I ride a Santacruz Blur and love every second of it, sitting on the couch not being able to walk is the worst thing ever. But i find riding one or two sessions a week yeilds bigger results that ridding every day. I've been doing a usual 3hr Saturday morning ride at Mt Cootha (In the bush) along with weight training during the week and i've lost 9kgs in the last 11 weeks. The only way to do cardio is the fun way. Find something you like to do and do it. I absolutely love mountain biking, I've been doing it since i was 10 and so every time i ride it's just fun as with the added bonus of great cardio.

FIXED!!!!!!!!! Put in some Yellow jackets this afternoon and cleaned up the (really rich looking) spark plugs. Car now boosts perfectly all the way upto an unusual non-existent limiter. NO R&R on 10psi... Feels good too, a tiny bit of hesitation in the mid range but that would most likely be the stock tune+bigger turbo. Car has more then enough power for me in 2WD and 4WD to start out on and from here its more boost + Tune at Mercury Motorsports. Also "Performance wise" are terrific, I bought the coil packs Saturday and they arrived here today, that's overnight from NSW!! Good price too.. definitely recommended.

Yeh i'll shoot off an Email to NIStune themselves and a few tuning shops... Any recommendations to who does quality work in Brisbane? Surely there's got to be a Nissan specific tuner. Mercury motor sports springs to mind?

Hi Queenslanders! My name is Steve and I'm soon to be off my P-Plates very early Jan. I've got a Skyline R32 GTS-4 and the passenger seat feels great so far! lol. Just trying to get the damn thing working properly in time but once it's good to go i'll be keen as for SAU cruises and the likes. I love the whole Jap time attack scene and the skylines "Jap muscle car" rep... The sound is just the icing on the cake.

I'm in Brisbane. Where would be the best place to get NIStune installed and dynoed? I'm going to go the full tune sooner rather then later. I was holding off getting it done because if i have problems with my car i don't want to be doubling up on dyno hours but i think getting it installed and the AFR's checked out at a minimum would be good. Starting to think hitting R&R too often and not enough long km's has built up too much unburnt fuel on the plugs. Which would explain all of above. Might clean my plugs and see if that's it. I hope it is because after NIStune i should be a proud 180kw GTS-4 owner Any theories? Also all dyno tuners feel free to PM me regarding NIStune or a similar ECU options for a basic tune. Wish i could edit the title to something more appropriate... guess that comes at a higher post count.

Wired up the fuel pump properly this morning. Makes a nice whirring sound to 14V+.. Problem is still there. Car has ZERO power most of the time, came round a corner in 2nd gear (3000rpm) to get up a light hill and it just couldn't. Power seems to be all over the place but only works ok (when it does) at higher RPM. Just putting a long in 2nd/3rd, 3000 ish rpm, put your foot to the floor, it gets full boost and it might as well be tied to a post in 6th gear. It then decides to go and chucks you way back in the seat until R&R, change gear and theres a bit of missfiring and stuttering as it decides what to do and then maybe some power for a brief moment. I had a look at one of the spark plugs and its BLACK as, so i think it's what i originally thought, bad coil packs? I could change spark plugs but i've tried 4 sets in the last 2 months so i rather not. Plugs are BCPR7ES, could probably go with 6's but i had them before when it did work and they started to melt. So, Fuel shouldn't be a problem, New filter, Bosch 040 with correct voltage. Boost should be ok too as the guage (aftermarket) is reading 10psi with an RB25 turbo. Boost comes on when it should etc. Ignition is where i think it's falling apart. Plugs are (as above) black like it's not burning the fuel but there were ok before. Coil packs are 21years old and there's miss firing sometimes... Will any Ebay "performance coils" that fit, work? I know they probably won't last as long as split fires, but will the do the job? Please help!! Any recommendations of what to do next will help, I simply don't have the coin to throw at it to replace everything and i need it running before Christmas.

Hi Guys, My skyline is playing up again and after trawling this site and google i can't find an answer which is unusual. So, awhile back i posted a read about my car not making full power on WOT and it was making the most power (half what it should) at half throttle. I got that problem fixed and it turned out to be a shagged fuel pump, It's now got a Bosch 040 and it had so much more power. In RWD it would put me back in the seat and felt like ~170+kw...It hit what i think is R&R at 6500rpm in 2nd, 5500 in 3rd and 4500 in 4th etc. Basically it would hit this point (when full throttle) and cut power and throw you forward. Thats all fine because i put that down to needing a tune. Its got an RB25 turbo on an RB20DET with 10psi. Stock ECU. Problem: The car only gets driven (and shortly) every 2 weeks or so... last week i took it for a spin and say when your in 2nd gear and hit full throttle, its normal off boost, then when it hits full boost it feels the same... it's holding back like the brakes are on. It hits like 5200rpm and power comes back and it launches until it hits the previously mentioned R&R. Along with this new problem it also missfires a little when you change gear and hit the accelerator again. Mods include, Pod filter, FMIC, RB25 turbo, Bosch 040 fuel pump, BCPR7ES 0.8mm plugs, all filters have been replaced. Sorry for the long post but hey, the more history and back story the easier it is to diagnose the problem. I might also add (completely unrelated) i replaced the oil pressure sensor this arvo and holy hell is that a mission!!! I had the old sensor unplugged but still screwed in for awhile, would that cause an oil leak? Engine is leaking a fair bit of oil only recently somewhere from that side of the engine. Hopefully someone can help I love my skyline when it works....

Brands is not so much of a drama but I'm confused on what weight would be an ok base... I'm guessing 10w-40 is the go?

Yeh it is a complicated subject but i was hoping there was a particular oil that "works" in a stock RB20... I have no idea about oil temps and the in's and out's of oil tech. I'll read more of it... I'm not going to read the whole 84 pages though especially when 3/4's of it is shit talk. yeh i think the Old pump must of been shagged... if when i up the voltages and replace the filter it all still works good it will be problem solved. Such a relief!

UPDATE: PROBLEM (maybe) SOLVED. I installed the Bosch 040 fuel pump. I didn't check voltages as i ran out of day light but i was going to finish it on the weekend.. I went to check it worked but my battery was dead. Today i got out the jumper leads and checked if pump was priming-it was- so i turned it on. I took it for a spin around the block to get the battery up to full power and WOW! car runs fine! full throttle is full throttle and there's significant power gain, +50kw or more. The old pump had a little filter bag thing on the bottom and it looked a little clogged. Ran it under the tap and it wasn't great. I'm guessing that was half the problem.... So, If the car was running rich at anything under like 4000rpm and then full power was at 3/4 throttle with full throttle sorta dieing, is that lean? i doesn't sound like it... if the car knew it wasn't getting enough fuel would it run R&R and limit power to avoid running lean? I'm really hoping it wasn't leaning out at full throttle, it wasn't driven like that for long and there was no unnatural bangs or noises.... hmmm. I'm yet to change the fuel filter and that may be clogged too, i'm sure it will be a bit. Then i'll see if i can wind up the boost without hitting R&R! YEEHAAAA my car works! Thanks so much for the help thus far! While i'm here, the oil thread is rather large and full of contradictions... what decent oil would i use for a RB20 in street low power conditions? will pay $50-$80 if its good stuff.

Yeh i've had a few people say a tune is worth every cent. So now i just have to figure out how to get around to doing that... I don't need anything fancy. Just something to handle (in the future) GTR injectors, splitfires, 040 fuel pump and a hks2530 (or similar) turbo on a RB20 would also need to handle a Z32 afm or something. Max 300kw or so if that... 200kw for now. I've heard EFI Performance is the place to go, and most people say NIStune... I think there priced at $800 or so installed and tuned on a dyno. Is this reasonable? Whats my best option for the money? I really want to keep it under $1000 including tuning but i don't know whats out there.

Bit of an update.. For some reason i can't edit posts. Low post count maybe? Anyway I took the boost controller off just to ensure i'm getting as little boost as possible... seems to be just over 10psi. I also replaced one of the more suspect silicon hoses on the intercooler piping. It runs how it did at the start of the thread but theres more power then before. I might still have a boost leak so i'll be doing a thorough check over on the weekend. Also bought a Bosch 040 fuel pump, fuel and oil filter so i'll be doing all that soon. Hopefully after a tune it will be sweet. I'll update the thread after the tune but if you think i could fix it another way please reply.

Ok so i replaced the plugs, Went from a BCPR5ES 0.8mm to BCPR6ES 0.8mm.. the tip on the 5's were like white/grey and the surround was black. I Put in the 6's and took it for a run around the block. The power is no longer at 1/2 throttle but no where at all. New plugs looked the same, like a light grey which is fine is it not? maybe a little lean... I also put in a Turbotech boost controller and set it as low as it would go. Its ok off boost, it comes on to boost fine (about 12psi according to aftermarket guage) but it struggles to rev past 5000rpm. All the way it up it feels like someones got the brakes on or something, its sluggish and a little rough and when it gets to 4-5000 it sometimes backfires. Not real good. I reallly want to get the car driving well without a tune. I don't care if it wont make big power at the moment i just need it running fine all the way to redline. I'm guessing its just the extra air making the ECU do stupid things.. Is there any way of getting it to boost to 6-7psi? Different actuater? Is it definatly too much air or am i still having ignition troubles?

I'll change out the plugs tomorrow to a BCPR6ES maybe a 1.1 gap too. Will change out the fuel filter aswell. If i was to put in an aftermarket fuel pump, like a Bosch 040. I don't need a tune straight away do I? fuel pump wont affect anything unless i swap out injectors right? I might get one of those too, just to kill 2 birds with one stone. I can't afford an Aftermarket ECU for while so i'll try all this stuff first before i get a tune. As long as im not running lean i'm more then happy with lost kw's until then if a tune is needed.

Well so far i've found that its only the exhaust wheel that is ceramic. Only way to test for sure is to have a look at the exhaust wheel and see if the nut is a 6 point hex (steel) or 12 point hex (ceramic). I've looked at alot of pictures on here of my turbo and some people say its a nylon compressor wheel and others say its a metal one? either way if its a ceramic exhaust wheel the ceramic wheel will go first... So assuming its a stock RB25 series 1 turbo, at 10psi i need an ECU remap to get full power at full throttle? Done. Now i gotta figure out if i can run 14psi on stock fuel/ignition setup with an ECU remap...

That makes sense, i took it for a quick drive and it pulls alot harder ar 5-6psi.. which i'm now assuming is the same amount of airflow the stock RB20 turbo was putting out at 10 psi. Now with a highflowed RB25 turbo at 10psi its putting out more air then the ECU can handle and now it needs a tune? Sounds pretty right to me but im still learning alot. Heres a picture of the turbo as it sits in the car.. I highly doubt anyone can indentify a highflowed turbo by just the front but its worth a shot... I don't wan't to pull the turbo out of the car to check it because i'm not sure what im doing just yet lol. One thing i notice though is that the old RB20 turbo (i still have it) has double the amount of fins, like the normal 6 fins as shown below but with a sort of secondary fin just below the first, making 12 fins. Is there anyway at all to tell if it is? I really hope its the case but i don't want to push more psi then it can handle and blow it up if im wrong.

Ok thanks for the info, Might look into a Nistune board sooner rather then later. Is the problem i have related to a bad tune only? Would bolting on a presumably stock RB25 turbo affect the car in this way? why?

The stock rb20 turbo was leaking so the previous owner just put in a RB25 turbo, no idea on its history... Anyway to check for steel wheel/highflow? Pulling the turbo completely out to check would be a pain.. and running high boost and blowing the probable ceramic wheel would be bad. Also yeh i understand i need a new ECU or piggyback system for it. If it does need a tune, is the stock ECU tunable at all? or ONLY with an aftermarket solution?

Hi guys and girls, I've recently bought a R32 GTS-4 with an RB20DET. I'm in the process of fixing it up and while I've read hundreds of pages on here and random Google pages i still have a problem with it not making full power. So i'll start with a background: RB20DET RB25 turbo, FMIC, Brand new copper spark plugs 0.8mm (BCPR5ES) ECU Diag came up 55, All ok. (I think i did it right)- O2 sensor came up as the car running rich, LED didn't flash at all. So, The car runs fine, it boosts to 10psi and its all happy days. However the power band is at like 3/4 throttle and it runs slower when you open the throttle full. Boost is still the same at 10psi. The exhaust does "pop" every now and again and i'm pretty sure that's just because its running rich.. The car doesn't misfire as far as i can tell but it's not making much power even when gently getting it in that "sweet spot" it does about 16.5s down the drag strip with a 2.1s 0-60 time. so maybe 120awkw at best? Is there something wrong with it or would a simple dyno tune fix it? I'm not too keen on going to the dyno just yet as i plan to get a 040 fuel pump + injectors and Z32 afm and do it all at once. BTW, My name is Steve and i'm from west Brisbane, picked up the car recently and i love it! I get my open license at the end of the year so at the moment I'm just cleaning it up and getting some power out of the almighty RB20 for the occasional track day! I can see myself joining the SAUqld club too.. love these cars.