myr332

I've noticed a lot of posts stating that to fix certain problems then it may be necessary to reset the ECU. As far as I am aware, the steps to do this are: 1. Disconnect the battery terminals 2. Press the brakes a few times From a standard ECU point of view, this resets the works and requires the ECU to relearn timings etc.. How does this work with a non-standard ECU that has been tuned? In terms of resetting the CPU, does it also wipe all of the mappings performed by the previous tuner? I would hate to reset my CPU to find out that it gets me back to the stage of it relearning itself and thus requiring to be tuned once more. I know this may seem like a fairly obvious question to some, but I am quite interested in the answer none-the-less. Cheers! Giles

Dude - forum rules stipulate that if you want to sell something you have to name a price. The place isn't E-Bay, so we're not here to auction.

The obvious one I can think of is Need for Speed Underground. It's an R34 GTR that seems to like to drift a lot? Then again their WRX does as well... Not really much for the realism of 4wd in that game - still cool though..

ha ha ha ha... must pay attention to that date of posting time stamp thingo in the future.. nice one

I used to have this problem with an older car in the days of the good ol' Carby's.. Turned out that it was running quite rich, which created the gurgling and occasional backfiring. have you installed a after market computer recently? what type of fuel are you using? have you made any modifications to your car recently besides the standard maintenance stuff?

You're right... If you live out west it's heaps exciting - you're always on your toes ready to dodge bullets if required... :rofl: (puts on flame suit)

not at all... it's only when i'm on the anchors..

Same questions as R33 Impul - also have the blades been upgraded to steel blades? how much boost has it been rated for?

[email protected] Have a R33 GTST S2... Would love to upgrade to a GTR wing... send the piccies through! thanks..

don't mean to hijack your thread jim, but i have a similar problem except my streering wheel fully vibrates when under gentle - mid braking. under hard braking it feels fine. very strange. no idea what is causing it either.

I am definitely interested in doing this. I have already done the skidpan day, so I would be only interested in 1 and 3 - but the skidpan was hell fun, so I'm always up for some more of that action.

Vents to atmoshpere only. I've got one. When I had the standard intercooler and was running standard boost, I hated the sound of it. Sounded like some puncy little train whistle, or a gay guy on Oxford street checking out my ass... after increasing the boost, it sounds a lot more aggressive and masculine... makes me feel like all 80kg of masculine rice boy. Nah - they're pretty good but as I say, sounds fairly camp at low boost.. Giles

"What about the brakes Russ???...... Ahhhhh the brakes Russ.............."

I love the rolling credits at the end! classic.. !! I've never done the 1/4 mile before (even though I am constantly telling people that I live a quarter mile at a time..... HA!).. I wouldn't feel too bad; I reckon my Mum's Ford Laser would beat me and my granny shifting.

bring on the old MG-B's any day of the week. I love those cars!!!!!!! My daily car is a Skyline. My soon to be weekend car will be a lovely British Racing green MG-B. (drool)

I am after a GTR fuel pump for my 96' Series 2 R33 GTS-T. Does anyone have one to sell or can provide a place that I could get one from? How much would I be looking at purchasing it for? Has anyone had much experience of installation? Difficult, or a DIY? Thanks Giles

do you have any pictures of the skirts and rear bar?

I think I'm getting some pinging I've had it street tuned, but I would like to get it done properly on a dyno. I am after some suggestions for good places to take my car to get Dyno Tuned in NSW, and who would be the best person to do the job? I've heard some good things about Croydon, but that was only from one person. Anybody had any bad experiences from those guys? Also, what type of power would I be looking at if I get a good tune? Would I be pushing close to 200+rwkw? any feedback is appreciated..

hey man... Yeah that would be brilliant if you could send me a picture. in fact a picture would really describe what everyone has been offering me, so if any of you guys (especially the bloke who mounted the amp next to the battery) have pictures of their installs, upload them!!! thanks!! Giles

got a picture of the blowoff valvue?

Thanks man... once again though, good suggestions but can you quantify any of it? like what type of power increase I might get, the cost of purchasing things and how hard to install?

Treat me like an idiot man ... (well not literally) So each of the below; what is the benefit of each particular modification, how much on average would it cost to replace, what's installation like? time required, difficulty etc.. (i installed all of my other stuff so i'm not too fussed about getting my hands dirty) and what kind of power increase do you think i would get? i'm still trying to pick up about modifying cars, so i'd appreciate it if you could play teacher for this one:) cheers dude..

Man, I am posting like a demon today !!! (all of 2 post .. yes that is big for me..) The question I have for everyone is a selfish need for more power.... I'm sure you can all sympathise with this.. Let me list what I have currently.. 'Line R33 GTS-T '96 Series 2 Air pod Intercooler Full 3 inch Exhaust from turbo back BOV (full-e sik m8) Power FC ECU Profec B boot controller I'm on the market to get a new clutch and flywheel which will of course allow me to get more power at the wheels, but I am just waiting for that group buy thread start up again!! Now I've spent a fair bit of my saved up pay packet, so now I am after power gains for as cheap as I can... So without getting extravagant and buying a new turbo, what other modifications can I do to make more power at the wheels that wont break the budget? Is there such a thing as cheap power gains after I have done most of my stage 1 work already? Be very interested in hearing people's experiences with modifying their cars and the budget they had to play with. Look forward to reading! Thanks fella's.. Giles

Thanks man.. that's exaclty the sort of suggestion i was after. I was contemplating mounting the amp behind the scenes. That is in the backing that hides the battery, over to the right side of the boot behind that backing there seems to be a nice bit of space there that would fit an amp. The idea would be to somehow fit it there.. would involve screwing a couple of holes and bolting it down, but that way the amp would be out of sight.. is this a non-recommended practice?

Hi guys.. Pretty new to all of this audio gear in cars, so wanted some advice from you professionals I have a 4 channel Pioneer amp in the boot of my car. It hasn't been attached to anything so it's just sitting free on the floor of my boot. Now as you can probably understand, I tend to enjoy at the odd time doing a bit of drifting (only in safe and controlled circumstances, of course!!! ) and when you have an amp in the back not attached it tends to go travelling at rapid rates in the boot... Oops! So with that in mind, I would like to know some recommended places to mount an amp in the rear of a R33 GTS-T. I asked an audio company to mount it for me whilst they fixed part of my stereo, but all they did was screw it into the plywood cover for the spare wheel, so that didn't do much before the screws came out.. So... what have you done in the past and what have you learnt from any mistakes in mounting amps in a safe and concealed location? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. Giles