simply_mighty

Oil leak was LHS cam cover gasket again. I retightened everything up and it isn't happening anymore. I think I may have let it drop out of the channel in the cover a bit at the front on fitting. I had no love for the turbo replacement, but I really liked the power it was making afterwards. You still thinking of getting something else ala Audi? I owned it for 12 months, thats not too bad. The other half never liked it though (apart from the boot space) and it just wasn't worth the hassle of her never liking driving it (and it being her main car...)

So I got the oil leak sorted... Everything is running great and it's pretty quick. Only thing is ( and Craig will be pissed at this ) - the miss us was adamant didn't like it anymore and wanted it gone. So the new owner came and picked it up this evening... Not too happy but what can you do I'll be back though... Sean

And when Scott says talk to Jetwreck about the turbo install - don't let him tell you anything except pull the engine and do it the easy way... I think he almost lost a few teeth and got coolant/oil in his eye the last time he did a turbo install engine-in Sean

Yeah it's getting done, just slowly. I erection (here we go again) that I'll only needto fill one more time and we're gold Sean

So it flogs the pants off a CV8 Monaro, R33 GTST (albeit mostly stock) and a few other miscellaneous cars. It's s bit slow getting onto boost but reels them in quick if they do get ahead. Gets to redline pretty fast in 1st and I've had the rear step out on me a fraction in the dry. Still impressed - but still trying to bleed this damn cooling system 100% Sean

Success! After a mammoth effort, Craig and I finally got the bastard in (again) after having the oil feed plate resurfaced and sealed with the correct sized copper washers - and it's not leaking oil anymore! I'm now 100% sure that it was incorrectly sized washers as to why it was leaking the first time we got it back in. In future I won't try using imperial sized washers on a metric sized banjo... Now I just have to bleed the damn cooling system - had a scare on the test drive where the temperature shot up then came back down before going up again... Obviously an air bubble, so will hopefully bleed that out tomorrow and go for a few drives. All in all - I'd recommend the Hypergear highflow for a daily driver if you're not chasing numbers - just bear in mind that the Banjo fitting may foul on the oil feed adaptor plate and will either require a new fitting or the housing modified like mine. I'll speak to Stao and hopefully he can provide the correct fitting for future customers. The response is slightly laggier, but makes great midrange and holds through to the top end. Induction noise is also a fair bit quieter than my last turbo (albeit most likely on it's last legs when I bought the car) and coupled with the dump pipe and modified actuator it hauls a fair bit more ass than before. That and it's $400.00 minimum cheaper than the next available rebuild option that I know of means you can get the extra parts for the same price as another rebuild. I imagine an (awesome) Nismo, Impul or Emanage would be pretty damn quick with this setup too Anyway, time to go clean the blood off my knuckles because I was stupid and decided to do it all engine-in... Sean (that simple dude)

Woah woah, Since when did my thread become a hypergear bashing thread? I've had 4 turbos rebuilt by hypergear in the past, and all of those 4 are still pumpIng away on my previous 300zx and another few cars. The only issue with this rebuild was the banjo supplied wouldn't seat properly as the thread into the braided line fouled on the oil feed mounting plate. That and the only copper washers I could find were imperial (read just over/undersized). We decided to mod the plate as I needed the car on the road - but on second thought I can 99% garauntee it was the copper washers not sealing properly. The turbo is actually done quite well, even Craig mentioned that. Stao - maybe for the next customer you could supple a 90 degree bend banjo for the turbo side oil feed. Like I've said before, next time I'd go engine out and precision rebuild purely because there's more people doing them on the forums. Given that the hypergear is almost $400 cheaper - you can get an a/m dump from Scotty and a highflowed turbo with modified actuator if it's just a daily driver for the same price as just a turbo rebuild. That being said, when the cars back on the road I'll do a full write up so you can see the results. It had already started losing traction in the 5 min drive we had before we pulled it out again.. Sean

It really isn't that hard to remove the turbo now that I've helped do it a few times. Just the last time we did it was straight after a drive so everything was tight as and wouldn't budge... Still cheaper than what I got quoted by workshops

Here's to hoping. I've had turbos rebuilt by hypergear before with no issues so time will tell Regards The simple dude

Lol at the simple dude Hopefully not. Been supplied a new oil line and were going to ensure the feed is 3mm all the way to the turbo. Wastegate actuator has been modified by Scotty so should hopefully hold ok. I'm gonna get a boost gauge though so I can keep a more accurate eye on it me thinks..

Elaborate?

Wastegate has been machined and a bogger disc fitted by It is te stave 2 Sierra now that I think of it. Had a dumb moment...

Yep sent to him. Sadly in Canberra though... It's pretty close to, if not, a 3076 from what I was told. Unsure of exact specs but will chase it up for future reference.

I went with a hypergear highflow. Not too bad from first glance, minus the installation issue

I can handle 3000rpm, a bit more town friendly that way too. Was very slow to rev up even when not under load so I imagine those vac leaks were killing it. At least we know it works (minus leaks)

So yesterday Jetwreck and I installed the following: - Custom dump pipe (thanks Scotty) - Preloaded actuator (thanks again Scotty) - high flowed Hypergear turbo - Standard BOV (removed Blitz item) - New sparkplugs. - LHS cam cover seal (did a few days ago) And we have boost! A little over 1 bar. Comes on strong in the midrange, and was a bit laggy, coming on about 3000rpm but I discovered I had a few vacuum leaks so hopefully that'll clear it up. That and the ECU needs to relearn everything again.. The bad news - an oil leak from the oil feed on the turbo... We had to grind the housing down on the oil feed to be able to fit the banjo supplied by Hypergear. That and I suspect the copper washers we used were slightly too big meant we had one mother of a leak. So out it came and it's now on holiday in Sydney with Jetwreck getting machined properly and a new banjo with correct washers fitted. The good news - from the 5min drive I did have it felt pretty strong, especially in the midrange. Cnsidering it's about $400 cheaper than the precision turbo rebuild I'd consider it a good option. That being said, if I had my time again id firstly pull the engine and go for a precision turbo rebuild, for ease of installation. Anyway, another week and a half or so and it'll be back on the road Big thanks to Jetwreck, massive effort so far... Sean

Ah well, May still have been the seal, it was quite brittle and stiff but there was no area that screamed "look at me I'm leaking!". It was deifnately leaking from near cyl 6 though as that's where all the buildup was that was dripping onto the turbo. I just want it to drive again, I'm too impatient when it's my daily that is being worked on Sean

DAMNIT! So I replaced the cam cover seal for nothing?!?!!? There is only about 5-8mm worth of oil in the well, does it leak down from the top where it seals onto the cam cover? Ah well at least I know the seal won't fail on me now Cheers for the spark plug code

Lol plenum already back on. Could do it with it on though I erection. Plug code?

Success! Finally replaced the seal. Easy enough when you have the right uni joints. Hopefully the rear is seated in the groove properly but looks like it. And no left over bolts too - always good. I did notice cyl 6's spark plug well had lots of oil in it. Is this an issue? I just need to syringe it out and change the plugs as I did in my 300. That and apart from being a bit stiff, the old cam cover seal had no obvious point of leakage.. Turbo, modified actuator and 3" dump should be arriving soon then it's hopefully back on the road after a quick service! Sean

And so how does one tell if seal is, well, sealing? Or is it a case of put it on, turn the key and hope the oil smell don't come back haha

I know - I fail at being a man. A single bolt made me almost set fire to the car today. I'll give it another crack on the weekend when I'm not working and hopefully get it done. Probably get a uni though. Doesn't help I lost my 1/4 drive socket On the plus side I saw I could just use the same upper plenum gasket instead of having to order. Do you guys torque up the bolts or just use some thread lock?

Actually I did... I meant engine out for turbo replacement and ust do everything else while it's there... I've given up for the day. Cam cover still on by one f@&$ing bolt and now I'm contemplating pulling the engine. I have no time or patience for V6 turbo's ahaha.. So no tricks for that last bolt near the coolant hardpipe?

So just attempting to replace the LHS cam cover gasket. How the F&$K do you get the rear right bolt off? I can't get the soft water line off and the sheathing on the loom keeps snapping. For anyone new - engine out everytime. NOT only quicker but less grazed knuckles.... Not forgetting the fact I'm gonna forget where all the bolts and plugs go Sean

Sweet Will get photos of BOV tomorrow and then PM you Sean