B I IL IL Y

Today I'm going to replace my aac valve and air regulator I've replaced all the plugs, igniter, loom and coil packs. I found yesterday my fuel line before the filter was swollen and had a leak so I replaced that.

I was driving my car and on full it was only getting 30-40 psi oil pressure but since advancing the timing it's gone back to what it should be. I got it so it does just rev of its head but now it's got a hunting problem but doesn't have any leaks. It's like the car revs to 3k and then dies and when it's about 600-1200 it starts again I tested a known working maf the same way and it didn't have 12v on the signal it had 300mv like there meant to

Ignition on and from maf pins to earth

I just tested my air flow sensor and I had 2- 10.5v 3- 11.5v 4- 11.5v 5- 0v

I did find a vacuum leak so fixed it and started the car and it didn't hunt but idled high, I did notice just before that the sensor in the radiator wasn't connect, is it used for anything?

I did pressure test it the other day and found leaking injector insulators but fixed that, I'll do I pressure test tomorrow and report back. I got it close but when I took it for a drive it boosted up high but felt like it wasn't doing anything so we advanced the timing a little and it went a lot better and it also helped with a oil pressure problem I had

I had my car running good today, went for a drive and my car just started reving high on idle so I drove home, and stared it at home now I an idle hunt goes from 1000 to 3-4000 what are the main cause of idle hunt?

And I'll pressurise the ic piping and test for leaks

Yeah I had it all the way in and I thought it should almost stall, I'll put a known working one properly

Yeah had it loose and had the aac valve all the way in too

I having trouble getting it to idle at 650 the lowest I can get is 800

So it's meant to be 15° btc And the rpm is meant to be 650? And do I need a loop wire or is using the wire on the coil pack plug good enough?

After work I'll go check all the marks again and test it and post the result

Yeah I've checked it so many times, do you have to disconnect the vct solenoid as well?

I'm using the stock ecu.

With the light I just put it on the coil signal wire and I had a mate with a 25 and we tested his and it was fine. I'm just running it with a stock ecu until I know everything is fine because I was $1000 last time I took it for a tune, I have a haltech platinum

I've recently built a rb25/30det slapper and I'm having troubles with the timing, I set the crank to tdc and set the cam gears to the marks and when I check it with a timing light it shows it roughly 40-50 degrees off tdc and I stuffed around with the cas and turned it all the way and still got 30 of tdc what could be my problem? I have a tensioner above the water pump and a idler on the lower