fergo308

my girlfriend is the same on the rare occasions she drives my Stagea, don't try and run her at the lights...you'll likely be stomped by a 5'3" brunette who'll then give you the finger. she loves driving it,but isn't game to back it into the garage... Justin...

Thanks for the advice Wolverine,I'll check out the space under the driver's seat. hopefully it's a little bigger in there than under the passenger side,which was too short by all of 5mm... I've thought about dumping the micro-spare,but with the numerous punctures i've been getting over the last few months,I doubt I could live without one. I would love to build the sub into the boot floor using the spare's cavity,but it just isn't practical,and anything I could fit in on top of the wheel is too small for a ZR12 woofer. it'll have to go into a removeable box. what sized amps are you guys running,and where/how did you get them into the car? Justin...

Looks like yellow from here. I've been racking my brain trying to find a way to make it a win-win with my own stereo install. my head unit went straight in,the splits in the front and rear doors were easy enough,the rears went straight in,the fronts needed some tricky brackets to mount the cross overs,and custom baffles to mount the mids,but weren't THAT hard. what's got me stuffed is how am I going to get the rest into the car without permanently losing boot space or the spare wheel? I'm constantly moving large items in the back of my car,so it must retain pretty much the full volume in the rear. I need to get two smallish amps,a 6 stacker,and a boxed 12" subwoofer into it somewhere. there's a bit of room behind the N/SR quarter trim which will take a decently sized amp if you are patient with bracketry. that takes care of one. the sub I'll have to make removeable,and will likely place it in a similar fashion to the above design. that's two. anyone have any ideas for the stacker and other amp? they won't fit under the seats. I've yet to investigate what's behind the O/SR quarter trim other than the ATTESSA reservoir. I'm hoping I can squeeze the stacker in that corner,or possibly the amp. I MIGHT be able to fit the stacker in hanging on the under-side of the spare wheel cover,but I'm not sure if that will be rigid enough for it to not skip. any ideas guys? what have you put into your cars so far? Justin...

I must be in tghe minority,as I don't have a copy of a stagea manual yet. anyone have a link for downloading one? regards, Justin...

a 17 that's 8" wide with a +35 offset sits inside the guards nicely,with good strut clearance. I test fitted a super advan 3 spoke a while back to get an idea of what would suit the car as far as the dimensions go. you could go to 8.5" without any worrise,but a 9 would need a bit of negative camber to remain inside the std guards at the top. one of the problems as I see it is that the rear guards are significantly like 15mm) narrower than the fronts. I test fitted some R33 GTR rims on my car (9" wide +30off) a while back,and while the fronts sat right on the edge of the guards,the rears were outside of them by at least half an inch. you can't fix that without flaring the guards... Justin...

I have a series 2,and the brakes are ok for dawdling around,but are not big enough for going quickly. from memory they're pintara pads up front,and R31 pads in the rear. I've bought a set of R32 GTR callipers,and will be fitting these once I have cash on hand for new discs and custom braided lines. MUCH easier to find pads,and significantly more braking power. Justin...

I agree with tangles. it's not traction loss you have to be concerned about,but rather the speed difference the transfer case has to cope with. different rolling diameters on each end of an awd car like ours will put extra load on the transfer as it'll be compensating for the speed difference at each axle whenever the car is moving,not just around corners. it'll run hotter,and may eventually sieze on you. I've seen landcruisers blow tansfers from doing freeway driving with worn tyres on the rear,and newies up front...so it's entirely possible that you may suffer the same fate in the long run if you run staggered sizes... Justin...

they are the same brakes between the 32 GTR and the 33 GTS-t. Justin...

Diameter? Width? Justin...

Bump... price is VERY negotiable people. the owner is keen to sell. Justin...

car sales link: http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...icle_id=3071756 Justin...

Hi all, My girlfriend is looking to sell her rav4. details as follows: 2000 model 3door Edge spec Rav4 91,500km 2.0l twin cam VVTi engine Automatic AWD White with grey bumpers outside,with a grey and blue interior trim. Electric mirrors and Windows Power steering Air Conditioning 2 Din factory CD/radio deck with 4 speakers extras include factory alloy nudge bar with driving lamps,hard spare wheel cover,floor mats and headlamp protectors. buyer will also receive a spare nudge bar,an extra set of factory floor mats,a bonnet protector,and a spare pair of std wheels with good tyres. rego until March 2007. vehicle has a full service history,and was most recently serviced and fitted with 4 new tyres and new front and rear brake pads in March this year. asking price is $19,000 ONO. price is negotiable,and first to see will buy. any inspection is welcome. please reply here,or call my mobile: 0418 663628 if you're interested. Location is South Sydney. Justin...

you'll have to cut and solder in the new deck's wiring loom to the original audio plugs. shouldn't take you more than half an hour to fit it. I have a diagram of the later model pinouts (from an S15,but the positions are the same) that I can dig up if you want it. Justin...

I'll have a go at this first up... Air filters: the apexi power intake filters aren't bad. they're fairly cheap to replace (as they're not cleanable),and work a hell of a lot better than the HKS ones do. I haven't used a blitz filter myself. personally,I'd use two K&N pods. they're cheaper,easier to come by,and are cleanable. as for the exhaust,my understanding is that the GTR front half of the exhaust will bolt straight on. as for the cat-back,you'll likely need to go custom,as the lengths and bends are slightly different to the coupes. or,you could buy a system out of japan,and pay the premium. split dump pipes DONE PROPERLY are well worth the extra cost over a blended style. the just jap/x force HKS copy units are NOT well done,and may even flow worse than the std cast dumps as the wastegate pipe comes in at 90deg. to the main pipe's flow,creating loads of turbulence. you want a split dump to come in much further down the system,along the line of the flow,not in on a cross-angle. your best bet is to get under the car with a tape measure and start comparing what you get to GTR parts on the shelf in shops. that's the only way you'll know 100%. Justin...

I'm interested in the front disc rotors. what's their current thickness? do you have the lines from the front callipers as well? can pick up this sunday if suitable. please call my mobile to work out a deal. Justin... 0418663628

ok. they're early model lights. Thanks anyway. Justin...

Can you ship these to Sydney,or meet up somewhere a little closer to Sydney for that price? Justin...

What's the PCD and offset of the wheels? Justin...

my car only hisses. I'm running a std exhaust (until thursday arvo that is), with a pod,and a profec set to 0.8kg/cm2. there's heaps of induction noise,and the std BOV hisses everytime you lift off,regardless of load. lift off abruptly from full noise,and it gives you a suitable 'psshhh'. IMHO,you don't need an aftermarket BOV unless you get serious fluttering with the std unit. atmo-venting units just attract unwanted attention,and stuff up your mixtures. the std bov makes enough noise through a pod for people to hear it as you drive by anyway. why you'd want the whole suburb to know that you just lifted off thr throttle is beyond me. Justin..

I'll give you $200 for the remaining kit. Justin... 0418 663628

and which model are the headlights for? Justin...

the sportivo turbos were VERY limited,as you've said. be careful with it,as they're a completely standard 7AFE with a bolt-on IHI turbo kit,designed at TMCA in taren point. a bigger intercooler (with plumbing that's more sensible than the factory setup) is a must, and it'd be a good idea to fit some form of proper oil cooler as they don't run piston squirters or anything along those lines to keep piston temps down with the increased cylinder pressure from boost. there's no lsd either,but a 20v or 4AGZE gearbox will bolt in without huge mods (custom driveshafts only),which will give you a limmo,as well as better ratios. have fun!!! Justin... p.s. I work for toyota if you haven't guessed already...

item has been sold. Justin...

could I get dimensions on the generic intercooler that you have for sale please? Justin...

Price drop, now $100. I want this part gone. you won't find a cheaper full-sized intercooler anywhere. Justin...