numleg

I get around 12 to 13 Ltrs per 100 KM for combined city driving and Sydney to Orange Highway run, I'm no boy racer but i do like the sound of my car on boost...

My tuner is talking me into a Jim Berry clutch, either mini or full monty. Going to talk to Jim again before i decide

I know there are faster Stageas out there but mine runs 12.3 quaters on 265/35/18 rubber in full street trim. Mods list: Stock bottom end Stock FPR R34 GTR turbos Nismo 555cc injectors, Walbro fuel pump Power FC AVCR Z32s Greddy suction kit and cold air box with factory snorkel HKS 264 deg cams HKS cam gears HKS hard piping kit Yoshida Garage custom ported head and port matched exhaust manifolds Greddy extended split dumps and front pipe Fujitsubo Cat back Gutted cat N1 oil and water pumps Greddy oil cooler kit Turbosmart BOVs Fried exedy HD clutch Unknown mechanical LSD GTR struts with low kings springs in the front, Tein lowerd struts/springs rear 312.5kW at 16.5 psi 272kW at 13 psi

$155 and a six pack of warm beer.

The car is arount 1650kg Trap speed was consistantly 185kph+ this should be good for a 12.00 or faster. best 60 foot time was 1.8 This car won't see track time only street and drag. I have a 180 for track/drift/stupidshit. I'm looking at what i can get local today otherwise i will order the nismo compermix comp $2200 from RHD Japan delivered isn't too bad but thats still a lot of cash.

Best I could do was back up my 12.3, Clutch didn't seem to like 300+kW+Drag launches+fat heavy car and is now rather f**ked. I wont be buying another exedy clutch as it only lasted 9 drag launches and 10k km of fairly sensible street driving most of it on 280kW. DVS JEZ what would you suggest? Car isn't driven daily and pedal weight is less of a concern but i would like to maintain some feel and not go back to the on/off switch HKS twin plate i had in it.

Just called WSID no rain out there. Can't wait to run the car again.

I run 19x9.5+12 all round with a 25mm spacers on rear and 245/35/19 rubber heaps of clearance with camber and rolled guards, I could go up to a 255 with out issues but a 265 would propably scrub the suspension. Or 18x9+30 all round with 25mm spacers with and 265/35/18 these only just clear the suspension on the rear but have heaps of clearance on the front. PS the ride with 19s is shit house, I can only imagine 20s would be crap.

Any one else coming out on Wednesday? I've got all fingers and toes crossed the weather holds out...

My setup was similar at the time around 270kW, 3ish deg neg camber and impractically low. I let a heap of air out and traction was pretty touchy, my first run was all wheel spin and limiter bashing. I got my best times with 6500ish RPM launches and plenty of clutch slip to keep wheel spin to a minimum.

Keen on intercooler, front stut brace and shift knob to suit a R33 GTR. Thanks

Autech 260RS with 312kW atw.

I managed back to back 12.35 passes with 40hp less and 19inch rims with streched 245 rubber. Going back with more power over the entire rev range and 18s with much better 265s, so i am confident of high to mid 11 second passes.

Hey all I will be headding out to WSID on the 30th, Pushing the wagon into the 11 second zone if all goes well. It would be cool to see some more stageas out there.

I can't make it this week. but i have got time off locked in and i'll be headding down 30th of next month.

Given that the RB26/25/20 is an old motor(s) designed in the 1980's when oil technology was nothing like what we have today, I see no reason why a good quality mineral oil of the correct weight and changed regularly (5000km) will not provide good long term protection for an RB motor. However as soon as you change turbos (specificaly roller/ball bearing) you are adding a much newer component built and designed around much newer/better oil technology. At this point i would say yes you do need to move on to modern semi-synth/full synth oils. But as I change oil at <5000km service intervals, I figure the oil doesn't get to the point of breaking down and failing to provide proper protection. As such I dont see any need to buy top priced oils which are developed to work better over longer periods of time. Of course if you are servicing something newer i.e. a VQ series motor then this pretty much goes out the window.

^This is something i have been told by a few people in the tuning/performance industry. Given that the RB26/25/20 is an old motor(s) designed in the 1980's when oil technology was nothing like what we have today, I see no reason why a good quality mineral oil of the correct weight and changed regularly (5000km) will not provide good long term protection for an RB motor. However as soon as you change turbos (specificaly roller/ball bearing) you are adding a much newer component built and designed around much newer/better oil technology. At this point i would say yes you do need to move on to modern semi-synth/full synth oils. But as I change oil at <5000km service intervals, I figure the oil doesn't get to the point of breaking down and failing to provide proper protection. As such I dont see any need to buy top priced oils which are developed to work better over longer periods of time.

Thats for an R33 i will it fit a C34? i've been told they don't? Also i have a genuine Freeway Dolphin front bar, eyelids and gauge pod, i've never seen another of the front bar.

If I finish work early enough i'll come out, otherwise i'm taking time off at the end of next month to see if I can push the fridge into the 11s.

I put GTR struts with king springs (low/-25mm) in the front of the car today. the ride is a little less crazy now and a bit softer, i think this will turn out to be a very good value suspension mod, total cost $350 and 3 hrs of my time to fit them.

EPIC. What is the rest of your setup?

My 260RS current power 312kW 1/4 mile time 12.3 > this was on the old tune making 379kW

I am running a R32 GTR PowerFC and the car runs fine, an R33 PowerFC would also work.

Autech 260RS Stock bottom end Stock FPR R34 GTR turbos < Terry's old turbos Nismo 555cc injectors, Walbro fuel pump Power FC AVCR Z32s Greddy suction kit and cold air box with factory snorkel HKS 264 deg cams HKS cam gears HKS hard piping kit Yoshida Garage custom ported head and port matched exhaust manifolds Greddy extended split dumps and front pipe Fujitsubo Cat back Gutted cat N1 oil and water pumps Greddy oil cooler kit Turbosmart BOVs 312.5kW at 16.5 psi 272kW at 13 psi

Had another tune as the car is mechanicaly finished (for now) Autech 260RS Stock bottom end Stock FPR R34 GTR turbos < Terry's old turbos Nismo 555cc injectors, Walbro fuel pump Power FC AVCR Z32s Greddy suction kit and cold air box with factory snorkel HKS 264 deg cams HKS cam gears HKS hard piping kit Yoshida Garage custom ported head and port matched exhaust manifolds Greddy extended split dumps and front pipe Fujitsubo Cat back Gutted cat N1 oil and water pumps Greddy oil cooler kit Turbosmart BOVs 312.5kW at 16.5 psi 272kW at 13 psi