numleg

Fitted S15 Autech seats, They match the standard trim but they are a much newer/nicer seat. 3 out of 4 bolt holes lined up and the 4th required minimal work to make it fit.

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I own a a 270ish kw 260RS and while it is quick, it's taken plenty of $$$$ to get it that way, I love the car what else can you put a 7kg front loader in the boot of and still smash WRXs at the lights? keep in mind the C34s are a large car with a long wheel base and plenty of over hang at the front and in stock form are quicker than the average waggon but not neck breaking. I get to drive Evos 5-8 fairly regularly, they are a completely different car, An evo is a smaller, lighter and better handling and was designed to be a sports car, a Stagea/260RS is a big heavy comfortable family waggon with the motor and drive train of a GTR. The 260RS is great car i love owning and driving mine, but don't buy one thinking you are getting sports car. If you can afford it why not keep the evo for play time and pick up a cheap RS4 stagea for family duties they arent worth much these days.

Fitted Greddy oil cooler, oil catch can, radiator breather can and a koyo radiator. Gauges will be next.

Price for 260RS models Please

Hey Mate, Tried PMing you but it says you cannot receive PMs Very interested in the BOVs you have for sale, Shame i didn't see them sooner. Can you please work out a price shipped to Post code 2045 Haberfield Sydney. Cheers Tom

Autech 260RS 16.5 PSI, 11.6 AFR and mild timing, more in it just not wanting to push the car too much just yet. Running Caltex 98 Stock bottom end Stock FPR R34 GTR turbos Nismo 555cc injectors, Walbro fuel pump Power FC AVCR Z32s Greddy suction kit and cold air box with factory snorkel HKS 264 deg cams HKS cam gears HKS hard piping kit Yoshida Garage custom ported head and port matched exhaust manifolds Greddy extended split dumps and front pipe Fujitsubo Cat back Gutted cat N1 oil and water pumps 277KW at the wheels Built and tuned by Japlink Motors

I would recommend Jap Link motors Haberfield, they will probably be able to do it cheaper + their Japanese mechanic has got crazy skills with cars.

Will check during the day, I think i have the interior parts you want. R32/33 air boxes are different

Loving my 260RS right now. 250kw at the wheels I can fit a 7kg washing machine in the boot. And comfortably seat 5 people. All at the same time

145 to 150 is fine. With an engine that old as long as its not way low (sub 130) all you want is even numbers. Yes an Autech 260RS is an R33 GTR with a really fat ass. Engine, drive train and suspension are all R33. So far the only real issue i've had using R33 parts is that i found the location of the power steering fluid reservoir is on the strut tower rather than the rad support. It got pretty tight when fitting the Greddy suction kit.

So i cant even have 1 beer with dinner and then drive home? Great F*&king idea.

+15

Interesting to hear that from a medical profesional who specialises in the area. How does this compare to some of the analogs and subsitutes you see people end up taking. ie BZP, TFMPP, 4-MMC, GHB, DXM and plenty of other horrid substances i wonder?

Simple answer: Why bother modifying your car and increasing its performance if you are going to skimp out on THE ONLY THING CONECTING THE CAR TO THE ROAD? Cheap tyres are for sh!t box dailys Tyres are like any other car part. You can buy cheap Ebay spec parts which will probably work ok, go pretty close to fitting properly and will last a while. Or You can buy a trusted big name part, these part will cost more because the manufaure spends money on things like R&D, product testing and quality control.

Hey Mate welcome to a very dodgy mine field I'm not sure about Victoria but here in Sydney I recon it would be safe to say about 60% of imports are in some way non-genuine, be it clocked here in Australia or back in Japan. Brought in as a wreck and fixed up or brought as a repaired car and cleaned up enough to sell as a non accident car. My personal favourite is the rust buckets I know some importers buy, clean up reseal/respray. Another good one is going to look is buying a highly modified car cheap (and presumably thrashed) and then taking off all the visible mods to make it look like a stock babied car. This is not to say everyone who brings in imports is a thief out to get your money. Mutipul cars of mine + family members have come from JapLink Motors in Sydney, I've seen enough of the way these guys operate to know they are genuine guys who don’t do any of the above. I know Iron Chef doesn’t approve of dodgy stuff and I’ve a few of his cars go through compliance in Sydney, They looked like clean cars and I would trust his word on the condition of his cars. I can’t comment on Import factory or J-spec as I’ve never had anything to do with them. My best advice would be to compare the condition of the car with the KMs showing on the dash, worn seats and steering wheel on a 60 000km car? Hmm, Car on snow tyres? have a look underneath. Search a few different forums for feedback and horror stories on any prospective dealers and ask for auction sheets and import documents which may help prove condition of the car when it was sold in Japan. Compare the condition of the car with the KMs showing on the dash, worn seats and steering wheel on a 60 000km car? Hmm, Car on snow tyres? have a look underneath. Hope this helps you avoid getting burnt.

HF is NASTY SHIT, It is used at my work in the manufacturing of solar cells, Minimum PPE for handling the shit is: Tychem suit with hood, full face respirator, Chemical resistant boots taped at ankle and 2 pairs of gloves taped up at the wrist. Last year a guy in WA died after spilling 100mls of HF on his leg. I would serously recomend staying away from HF at all costs.

Built myself a polycarbonate air box to go around pods, I've got air coming in from inner guard, behind head light + i've kept the factory snorkle coming in the top. Intake air temp has dropped about 7 deg on average.

Installed Trust/Greddy suction kit. Bitch of a job, HKS intercooler piping and stagea engine bay add up to make quite a tight fit. Will be starting on a polycarbonate box for the pods tomorrow.

Yeah the auto electrican above Japlink has worked on my car, he is crazy good, but heaps busy. If he is not keen try Japlinks in house tuner. He does custom wiring etc and is VERY good.

I'm runing a mix of HKS and Trust/GRreddy piping on my 260RS. HKS = cold side intercooler and bottom hot side pipe Trust/Greddy = Intake and Y piping/top hot side pipe work. Expensive but i the HKS SLP kit doesn't fit Z32s and T/G dont do lower hot side piping, if you are runnning standard AFMS get the HKS kit otherwise mix and match. If you are able to fit off the shelf parts i would. Why mess with custom fabrication when you have a tried, tested and proven option.

I haven't heard anything good or bad about Northshore or Nagoya. I got my car from Japlink motors, Very happy with the car and after sales service, I had one minor problem (O2 sensor died) replaced two days later and was given a car to drive for the day while they worked on the car.

Installed Hicas lock bar on arse of the 260 and then had a full wheel alignment done. All the extra Autech bracing made it a rather frustrating job. Feels a lot more solid around sweeping bends/ bumpy stuff.

All imports AKA Eddy Tran is known to give his cars "hair cuts". I'm sure you can work out what that means.

Yeah i got 244.5 at the rears on stock turbos and just a walbro in my 260RS, pretty much every other bolt on know to man though. Power FC and Z32s are the go. My tuner tells me stock FPR will be fine when i add 2860s and 700cc injectors, Nice plates dude, These things look amazing dumped but the overhang at the front is a real killer i couldn't imagine going too much lower.