FATGTS-R

Hi Guys, We were doing some maintenance on our truck fleet today at work and came across a truck that has two broken exhaust manifold studs. There is no part of either stud protuding from head, if anything they are 3-4mm deep which means its an easy out job. Nobody wants to put there hand up to have a go so we need someone else to do it for us. Can anyone give me the name/number of a person who does this type of thing and goes onsite? Tried yellow pages online and got nothing. Thanks in advance Jayson................ p.s - Truck is parked in Western suburbs.

Its not for a conversion, its for an upgrade to an RB20 manual.

What did they report on Suspension/brakes/drivetrain? Previous repairs? Predator summed it up pretty well. But understand there is potential for a couple thousand in repairs if your paying other people to do it. If it needs a rack theres $800 as mentioned. I had intermittant harshness from cam belt and it was a shot bearing so $400-$600 for timing belt and bearing/seals change. The battery at $150 and its at a possible $1500 already. Then theres the oil leaks from head, oil in intake and the missfire. Which could simply be tightening the cam covers, slight blowby from 11 years and a new set of plugs.....or a rebuild. As others have mentioned, if you dont get this one and see another one I would take it to a workshop with a dyno for the inspection. Then it can be ramped up to see what its doing with a/f ratios as well. A simple tired fuel pump can kill the engine which RACQ wont pickup. Also get a leakdown test performed.

My best mate plans to take the autosalon record at the final battle later on this year. When he saw the results up on the autosalon site last night he only got more nervous. Great result indeed. Its not a skyline, but an isuzu/holden rodeo V6 from VIC with QIKINK on the plates. Why he went in autosalon? Who friggin knows but hes hooked on the dyno thing. He won the Melbourne round with I think 594rwkw sans gas. He has since ordered the hardware to make the required power so it will be either power or pop I guess.

As topic suggests I am looking for a manual gearbox from an R33 GTST or R34 GTT hopefully with the yoke as well. I would prefer it to be in VIC but interstaters feel free to contact me as well. Please PM me. Thanks Jayson..............

In which way did your turbo give up? Maybe the rough edges came from excess shaft play causing it to slightly catch on the housing?

Are you also noticing it doesnt happen as much when cold but is more frequent after you have been driving a while? As above my bet is on clutch slip as well.

The graph you posted is a wide open throttle, full load run (the mixtures are not rich at all) and has nothing to do with your economy issue. Its the mixtures when cruising around that are in question which you dont have a graph of. What was consumption before you took the mesh out? Its obviously a recently rebuilt engine, so what Ks were on it when it was last tuned?

I would say 230-240rwkw based on my own experience. But its a rough comparison as my car is a R31 2 door with an RB20. I had 235rwkw and consistently ran 14 flats at 109mph. Yes, my car has setup issues and also has a twit trying to steer it.

If the pump was replaced and it made the tune rich then why didnt they adjust mixtures to suit? Also, its makes 14psi at 3900. Is that what others also acheive? I would of thought it would of come in sooner but could be wrong. Lastly, you mention the tune is currently rich at 195rwkw. Do you still have the factory injectors and FPR? At standard fuel presure with standard injectors 195rwkw should have mixtures anything but rich.

There is no Map sensor. Does it still happen if your on the low bost setting? Sounds like the common rich and retard(search).

How much did you pay for the tuning? Possibly they have only charged and performed mapping for WOT so it doesnt destroy itself. Getting the cruising economy acceptable will require them take the car out on road (or dyno) and tune for light loads. Which will take more tuning hours and hence more money. A lot of people are quick to blame the ecu and/or tuner for poor results when in some instances its simply the end user has not paid for it to be done. Those on here that tune there own cars will attest that there is a lot of hours needed to get a acceptable result. To answer your question, it has not been tuned correctly if at all for your cruise situations.

Im in the same boat as you as in I have never had a liking to a plethora of gauges. But as power goes up the need seems to be justified. You have an Autronic, so you also have the option of getting a digital dash that will show all vitals and in most cases data log as well. They cost a bit for a decent unit but end up the same if not cheaper than buying individual quality gauges.

Yeah, still happening. The work pcs AV is finding some trojan soon as I click on the site and then the whole pc freezes up. It made the home PC have a heart attack and would not let IE stay online for more than 30 seconds so formatted the thing. Came back on just now and when I open a page it then says its opening something else in the background called 196.regvista.com or similar and it then said its opening or starting applets or something. Im not PC literate so I have NFI if its bad or not.

As above, mine rattles when you have clutch pedal to floor and is silent when pedal is up.

The last thing you want to do is throw $100 worth of plugs at it when your chasing a gremlin. A $20 set of coppers will be fine. A simple fouled plug or split/popped off cooler hose can give the problems you describe. Have you tried a new set of plugs? But as you mentioned the problem has come and gone I would say its likely to be ignition related. And as alluded to by Paul, if the power fc wasnt tuned when connected up to your engine, which is modified, then that wont help much either.

I also live nearby that hospital and agree that its needed a set of lights there for a long time. Visited people there myself and its a no brainer to put a set in there. The reason is that the hospital has its own parking for x amount per hour. But there is somebody, who (privately) owns a large piece of gravelled land across the road who also does parking for a fraction of the cost of the hospital, hence a lot of people choose to save there coin and park across the road instead and then walk across. Its a common sight to see families, old people, children etc skooting across the road there. Couldnt even begin to imagine what the driver is feeling right now. May the deceased rest in peace.

I noticed in your last step you went to a different exhaust manifold. Is it a high mount or low mount and does it have the same type of heat sheilding as the factory item? I ask as the last dyno chart posted has an inlet temp of 55degrees, nearly 30 over ambient where it doesnt happen that far previously.

I have an 87 HR31 GTSR. No factory BOV, and it stalled. Fitted a bosch plastic jobby and all is fine. Some people use the argument that when Nissan fitted BOVs to cars that turbo sevice intervals increased but its a flawed comparison as from what I understand ballbearing turbos were also first fitted when the BOVs came to be fitted. The extebded turbo sevice interval could of been solely because of the uprated technology of the turbo, or not, or both. On the emissions side of things, nobody has yet taken into consideration the crankcase vapours. With no BOV, the oily non epa friendly vapours emitted from the rocker breathers go straight out to atmosphere via the airfilter. With a recirc bov fitted the vapours remain in a sealed system and cant get out to atmo. Surely, this was a huge part of Nissans reasoning for fitting them. Fwiw, I am pro BOV and would always run one on a turbocharged vehicle beleiving it has to increase turbo life, but by how much I dont know. But for the purpose of this thread I do beleive it serves an emissions purpose as well to keep the crankcase vapours sealed in.

I was thinking the same thing, the afm hit max airflow before but now with more power, hence more airflow it doesnt cut? Was the before dyno run done on the same dyno as the after? Lastly, I see the run was done in "shoot 3" where usually it would be shoot 6F. Would that affect the power figure? Or is it just a ramp rate thing?

Looks very good. Well done. Cant wait to see what some new injectors will do. On the dyno parameter thing, if the IT sensor was not in place then how could it read 6 degrees under ambient? If anything shouldnt it read the same as ambient?

The cooling systems in place are for the centre cartridge. They are not designed to cool the exhaust wheel which is what fails.

Price on Gearbox, yoke and tailshaft please. Genuine enquiry.

Fuel pump?

2BNVS, did your friends motor actually fail, from ingesting water? Have always heard about the external pod will suck water and hydraulic the engine but have never actually seen or had personal evidence of it happening. At least four of my friends have pods sitting out the bay, two of them with splash guards and two with nothing which have been running for a couple years without drama. Not to say it cant happen, I wouldnt do it, but I've never seen it happen. When you think about it, it would have to be a good effort for enough water to get all the way to the engine. Firstly, the filter itself would hold a lot of it, then it has to go through the intake pipe to the fast spinning turbo, which creates heat, then it has to get through all the fins of the cooler, which would grab a lot of it and finally around the rest of the piping and up to the engine.\ For infos sake, I have an import R31 and cant run a cold air feed without cutting things up which I dont want to do at present so I have a pod inside the bay which only gets an ambient feed from the factories airbox snorkel and lid hovering over it. Better than nothong I guess.