FATGTS-R

The serial number is stamped into the side of the unit. If you can hold it in your hands you should be able to see the serial number.

Have you looked at the autronic forums? There is a goldmine of info there, especially if you are interested in tuning with it. What chip version smc do you have? Probably not your cause but just in case make sure the program is setup to read the correct COM port. For some reason my program was set to read com2 as default and I was plugged into com1 and it took me all day to figure it out. Also make sure the ignition is on. It needs power to send the signal.

What exact problem are they having they say the gate is too small? How is the wastegate pipe plumbed in? Custom manifold? off the shelf item? Mate has a 1000hp turbonetics turbo using a 35mm turbosmart gate and its fine. With the solenoid off and running straight off the spring which is 16psi its been no drama.

I'll third that.

The point is people get upset that they take things a bit too far. We are in one of the best countries in the world with a wealth of oppurtunities and they want to milk it for every friggin cent. Then they cry when theres no work, go figure. This thread will go nowhere and could go forever. And the last thing we want is for another week of tools down because a member read this thread and cant work because he is emotionally scarred we cursed his blessed gravy train, i mean union.

Dont worry about giving somebody a shock by telling them where you study. Be more worried about the shock YOU will have when it dissapears from the carpark because you broadcasted where its parked for 8 hours a day.

Well yes it can be towed. But opportunistic car thives dont have tow trucks at disposal. As mentioned, if they really want your car they will get it. A lot of my friends have kill switches and they are in some ingenius places, well hidden places and right in front of you places. Like using one of the factories blank switches and putting a switch there as the kill switch with "demister" for example. Multiple horn button steering wheels with one of the buttons used to complete the starter circuit. Another mate has a buggered electric aerial and you have to press the aerial up button to start. But to reiterate what I said it can still go missing. Mechanics are a good place where your guard is let down. You might of been there for 10 years and trust the guy with your life but his apprentice who started a week ago might need to move the car and ask "how do I start this thing". Then cut your key during his lunch break and....you get the idea.

Meaning I treated it with respect as my wallet wouldnt respect the repair bill. The worst it got was dumping the clutch trying to launch it at the drags. When shifting I always lifted the throttle before pressing the clutch and changing gears. The method of "flat shifting" is keeping the throttle nailed to the floor and pressing clutch and shifting all the while keeping the throttle down. Puts a big shock through the driveline.

You towed it to this place because you wanted to alleviate any further damage and then he drives the car and it breaks???? In regards to how he might or might not of driven it my best friends built rodeo engine spat a rod out two years ago and car was travelling at about 30km/h on cruise do a bearing being starved so it is possible but its no RB so I guess its irrelevant. You mentioned it went up a 50 metre ramp, so is it possible that if he took this ramp in too tall a gear that the pictured damage could be the result of the excess load and ill bottom end?

Is it definate that you cant have dark tinting on the rear screen? I ask as a lot of vans have there windows totally black and some even replaced with steel in the case of refridgerated ones. And trucks cant see a damn thing at all besides a huge box. Or is it just a commercial vehicle thing?

"...but you get no sympathy from me when its tools down and time to go home because the lunch room on site had 14 seats, and on a particular morning 3 guys didnt have a seat to sit on at morning tea." Great example Roy. My first taste of unions was very similar. I had supplied office workstations to the then new "colonial stadium". It was handover day for the site and everthing was being packed and cleaned up. The only tradesmen actually doing anything were a couple painters touching up and my data guys double checking the workstations. And about fifty others walking around doing jack, literally. I had to go down there as two tiles in the stations were wrong and I needed to swap them over, one minute job. As it was handover day the lunch room had started to be packed up at about 1.00pm. Some f**king idiot couldnt warm up his food so tools down and "get paid and go to the pub" time. I have another 50 examples of "rain" stoppages. Oh, and what about the guys on over a grand a week to operate the lift!! We got burnt once or twice in the beginning quotiong on union jobs for workstations because of all the crap stoppages. The way we do it now is work out the price based on a non unionised site and then double it. Then add in the bribes/kickbacks etc to make sure your tender doesnt accidentally land in the shredder if the price is actually half decent.

Red sounds good with matching calipers. The red from the GT badge on the moulds would work well. The 34 GTR rim colour might work as he has those rims on the car as well. What about colour coding the factory body colour, which already is a flippy kind of colour between blue and black and getting the GTS-R decal airbrushed large over the top of it?

Never seen 10mm bolt ons the smallest I've seen is 20 or 25mm I think. I beleive the reason is so there is some meat on the nuts to bolt them on. Think about it. You want your wheel hanging on by nuts that are MAX 10mm thick?

I had Nizpro do the pre purchase inspection on my car. Cost was $250 and included a road test, full mechanical and suspension/brake inspection. Body/chassis inspection. Leak down and compression test along with a power and air/fuel ratio test on the dyno. I thought it was expensive at the time but after seeing that RACV want over $200 to scratch there heads I guess its a bargain. Do RACV do a leak down?

Max power on mine is made at around 6,000rpm and rev limiter is set at 7,000rpm. Power doesnt dive it just slowly tapers down. I agree with Roy about wringing the first two gears a bit more but my car is all over the shop in first and second and I always am bouncing off the limiter unintentionally. I need to improve my driving skills/suspension/tyres before I will bump it higher.

Why dont you want to use a dyno? If its a funds issue install the gear and leave it set at zero till you can get on one. Should only be ~$120.

I bought my car with an aggressive twin plate that had 160rwkw (rb20) and no idea how long it had been there. Power increased to just on 200rwkw and box held up fine. Done my fuel system and picked up car with 235rwkw and took it out for a test. After a few spirited runs through 2nd and 3rd as I pulled up to go round a roundabout a loud whine appeared in third gear. Loud like straight cut gear loud. It stayed like this for another couple thousand kays including a drag day. Back for more power and returned with 285rwkw and still didnt smash. Went on a two hour drive cruising in 4th/5th the whole journey non stop with a light foot and as I arrived at destination the box started making a terrible grinding rattling sound. Aural analysis is a thrust bearing, wear and tear part. I went on a bit but I have had crap tyres and treated the box kindly. No clutch kicking and no flat shifting, not once. And it survived with the twin plate and uprated power but for how much longer I dont know. But rb20 boxes get smashed everyday with half the power and with a single plate. Its got more to how you treat it that will decide if it lasts or not. My opinion, for the price of a twin plate clutch save a little longer and put the 25 box in at the same time.

Hi Jon, Well the first thing that alerts me is that you have not mentioned any change or modification of an ECU. If you do a search on "Rand R" or Rich and retard I think you might find some insight.

We have better fuels now than we did in 1986 so the high comp issue isnt as bad as it seems. As well as the fact the VL had no intercooler. Make sure you get one though. Go to the R31 link as posted by nismoid for a lot more info. You will also see that plenty of others have turboed the NA engine with success and have been running without drama for a long time. Some of them with higher than standard boost and making over 200rwkw. And this is without any bush mechanic mods. My mates little brother is also halfway through doing the conversion and this is on an NA engine that was worked beforehand meaning it has higher compression at approx 10:1 I beleive. He is using an A/M ecu though.

I used to be a paranoid freak and let it warm up for 10 minutes or more and even then the temps had only just started to move up. Couldnt figure why I had such bad economy. These days, I fire it up, wait till oil pressure rises (few seconds) and take off driving sensibly. Funny now that it doesnt take anywhere near ten minutes to get up to temp. Cool down is like others said. Just take it slowly 5-10 minutes away from home and then I shut it down instantly.

A clutch might come in handy.

Did the workshop that installed the alarm have your address? Or would they of needed to follow you?

My mates car has been photographed for two car magazine articles. Both times there were "crazy angled moving shots" but the last thing the photographer was doing was hanging out the window. In both instances the camera was mounted to the car.

320rwhp isnt too bad at all for 16psi in the scheme of things. I have a Garrett T3/T4 and when tuned at 16psi made 235rwkw. I wasnt dissapointed, I was actually very very happy. Why are you dissapointed? What power did you think/told it would make? For comparison, when boost was upped to 21psi power climbed to 285rwkw from a turbo factory fitted to a car in 1987 so you could even make more. For 285 on an RB20 you'd think it was asleep untill over 5,000rpm but it makes the 21 at 4100rpm in 4th on the dyno. As mentioned by above peoples: Put up some dyno graphs, hopefully with power vs boost. "ss exh manifold" what type? got a pic? Hows it drive? Jayson........

Try Racebrakes in flemington. One of the dieing breed of no nonsense, no bullshit honest workshops.