FATGTS-R

Ok so reducing the inertia by lightening the pulleys is a good thing. By underdriving the gearing is going to improve the response further, possible slight power increase? So, doing the above is in turn going to reduce load on the engine correct? Just thinking aloud but load is what helps a turbo spool, so would reducing the load and getting the increase in acceleration speed be offset by a later spooling turbo as load has been reduced?

I am going to be upgrading my RB20 box to an RB25 item and would like to know how you gauge the condition of a used gearbox that is not fitted to a car? Surely it cant be a case of handing over ~$1200 and crossing your fingers, can it?

Nice thread, thanks for taking the time. May I ask what the run in procedure was and what oil you have used during the 30K? Also why did you pull it apart?

The ecu can run either impedance. Just make sure you stipulate when ordering the ecu.

I have also noticed a lot more police presence on the roads lately including a lot more vic roads defect stations for heavy vehicles. In the last two weeks alone 3 guys at work have copped defect stickers. None of these are modified cars, just normal daily hacks that got defected for tyres, chipped screens etc. I would say the main cause for it is the commonwealth games around the corner in an attempt to get all the rubbish off the roads.

What if any are the negative side effects of having the PCV blocked off? My catch can is setup with both breathers going to can and then back to inlet with the PCV bunged off.

A not to well known fact but the width rating on a tyre is the MAXIMUM that the tyre can be made. It can not be made wider than say 235 but it doesnt actually have to be spot on 235mm, it can be under. Motor I think did a tyre test on 17 inch 245s last year and there was a great variance between actual measured tyre widths. Ironically, the cheapest tyre, a maxxis had the widest contact patch.

I would go with spacers as the culprit. I had "slip on" spacers when I purchased the car and had a very violent vibration at 80km/h. Got all 4 wheels aligned and balanced to no avail. A tyre shop told me the spacers was the issue and I removed them and replaced them with spacers that had a wheel locater on them. Reduced the vibration by 80%. But I will remember to get the wheels balanced next time with the spacers and see what happens. In saying all that, mxtcy as you only have a 2mm spacer I would get rid of them and machine 2mm of the caliper.

Another question SK. What would be the negative side effect of using the "7" heat range plug on standard boost vehicle?

I work 2 minutes from Sams shop so might go get a run done if I finish work in time. Just had mine tuned on a DD so will be interesting to see what happens. As long as the ramp rate is fast and they have the sniffer up the pipe I will go on. I am a bit paranoid of slow ramping dynos like autosalon melbourne, they make me cringe.

I have an Autronic, and yes it was fitted by an Autronic dealer. To say I didnt have niggles is a laughable comment in my isolated situation. This not representative of the ecu, just my personal experience. People always say "choose the ecu your tuner is familiar with" I would add "make sure the person wiring is also equally if not more competent than the tuner". From my experience I see the wiring in to be the most critical part. It needs to wired in better than a factory ecu. "interference" is a word I detest now. When I was deciding on an ecu the PFC was my first choice but there isnt a model available for an old RB20 (since found out I could have retrofitted one) so I went the Autronic. The plug in versatility alone would have saved me many a heartache. Am I happy with the Autronic? Yes, it is as everone knows an outstanding piece of gear if wired in right and tuner knows how to play with it but as my car is 90% street driven my opinion is that the power FC would have been a much better soloution for my needs.

That is a very bold statement to make. Do you have any evidence/theories etc to back that claim up? Not having a go its just that a LOT of people run NGKs with a .8 gap and a heat range of six. It would be pretty fair to guess that its the most common plug configuration for an RB powered car that is running above standard boost. ( throw in coilpacks ageing and even standard boost cars run .8mm)

Well if he is doing the water pump now is a good time for a timing belt change, tensioners, front seals, flush/upgrade/renew radiator. Also, not sure if its the same on an R33 but on my RB20 there is a welch plug behind the water pump which had corred a lot on mine so I guess change that as well. If your mechanic didnt suggest a new timing kit while doing the water pump I would be very suprised.

I doubt the fact you say they are classed as a "luxury" car is a warrant for not having one. If anything it would be the opposite. Think of a typical luxury car owner and there shock when they heard the sound of flutter! They would be back at the dealer in no time saying something is wrong. I have a HR31 GTSR, far from luxury and it has no bov from factory. None of the R31 RB20s had bovs. What years were the ceffy and laurels produced? Maybe it was an emission thing to fit bovs later on? No BOV would have the breather gasses ( dirty oily air) venting to atmo through the filter.

So what was the result?

Learners having no restrictions and then being restricted on there Ps has been like this for ever and a day in VIC. Obviously they make this decision, allowing learners to drive a high powered vehicle, based on the premise that they have a fully licensed driver beside them.

Well the switch has 3 positions: 1min - off - 3min. Have the switch in the 1min position and turn off ignition and remove key and the car will continue to idle for, you guessed it 1 minute. It will idle for 3 mins on 3 and if switch is in the middle it wont idle after ignition is switched off at all. But all the above depends if it is actually hooked up and working.

HAHA wonder if that big goliath of a tonka runs a nissan powerplant LMAO!! Have got a couple of Komatsu forks at work and decided to look at the engine on one the other week and low and behold it was a nissan 4 cylinder carby!!! On 3 tonne forklifts!

Because the cam gears are not RB25 specific. They can be used on an RB20 for instance.

You touched on earlier on what could well be a major cause of your problem,in the exhaust valve. Have you actually checked its operation to make sure its not sticking and causing a major exhaust restriction? Even better, drop the exhaust and do another run.

Im confused, you say it was reading RICH but you have concerns of a lean fuel issue? But as mentioned, dont rely on the A/F gauge especially if its just hooked up to the factory fitted sensor. Next time its on a dyno look at the a/f ratio the dyno sniffer shows compared to what your one is showing. You will be amazed, like I was at how useless it was and throw it in the bin.

Hi carl, can I ask what size pistons you purchased?

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=36055.0 Read that thread and also click the link the thread author posts on the first page.

I guess you wouldnt call it "necessary" for driving when licensed but for a driving test yes it is. He would of also told you to make sure you have selected second gear before you start to turn. It's to do with "vehicle control". They (testers) want you to have full control of the vehicle during a turn, meaning both hands are to be on the steering wheel during the whole of the turning manouvre i.e dont up/downshift during the turn as you will be driving with one hand for a moment. Dont remember back to my P plate test but on the numerous heavy vehicle tests I have done it was an immediate failure to down or upshift during a turning manouvre.

From what I have seen all the standalone launch controllers/rev limiters are all hard cut limiters i.e cut all spark or cut all fuel as opposed to a/m ecus which (some) have a soft cut feature. I can gather the negative side of a hard cut fuel limiter but what, if any complications would a hard cutting ignition limiter possibly cause to an engine?