FATGTS-R

Funny you say that Ash as after I made my power figure the tuner put it down to my manifold being a "freak" and suggested the tuning characteristics of it are perfect for gas speed to spool a turbine urgently and keep the gasses flowing high in the rpm range as you well know from your previous setup which was no slouch at all. He was planning to price up replicas upon my next service but as you mentioned I doubt $500 would cover a decent job. Dont hold out Ash on getting prices as I would love love an external gate version but would not dare hack up my one. The external version posted earlier looks good to me.

Great info guys. Looking at participating in a track day myself. Can somebody tell me why some people race with the heater on full blast?

Yeah as mentioned having 13:1 a/f ratios at peak torque aint too good. And considering the ambient temp in the workshop was 38C well that makes it even more scary.

meh, I have no idea but seeing as two were spotted on the ring rd I will guess a Toyota as there plant is 1 min from a ring road exit. They also export a shit load to the middle east which could explain the LHD.

1987 HR31 GTSR Stock TO3/TO4 turbo @ 22psi. Stock front mount cooler. - ceramic coated piping Stock nismo tubular exhaust manifold. - Black ceramic coated K&N pod Inlet butterflies removed 3 inch exhaust with Magic CAT Remote mounted AU falcon coil pack GTR fuel pump 500cc XR6 turbo injectors Autronic SMC optimax

You did know 2006 was year of the boat anchor didnt you?

OK but wouldnt you still need throttle for it to work? In your scenario, the clutch goes in, and it retards and goes rich but it will still need throttle to spin the turbo, wont it? Which is why I dont understand how it could spin the turbo on the shifts if you lift off. On my setup, if in neutral and hold the antilag button in, nothing happens at all, no difference, sounds like always. But press the throttle deeply while holding the button and it spools away. But I really dont know what Im going on about so yeah, lol.

Thats what I was getting at. As a software only antilag I dont see how it could run on the fly during gearchanges. Maybe if the foot was kept flat to the floor but not sure even then if it would work. Are you saying it will run anit lag on the shifts, or am I misinterpreting your post? My ecu has an antilag feature, but without additional hardware it can only be used on launch. Instead of being wired to the clutch pedal it has a dash mounted button. Hold the button in, press the pedal and it makes positive boost pressure. As mentioned, I havent touched the surface in researching antilag systems so I stand to be corrected.

Huge power indeed, well done. What HP is the 17c rated at? And what did it make using the internal gate? As above, what ecu, and can you post the graph?

I apoligise to go slightly off topic but can you tell me what rpm you sit at when doing 100km/h with the shorter gearing?

While being out of my depths in relation to antilag systems I would dare say its the stationary, launch type system only. From what I understand, for it to work on the fly during gearchanges it would require additional hardware along with the required software. You would need something to keep the throttle butterfly slightly open during pedal lift off.

Sorry not sure exactly what you are trying to say. So it hits full boost, and the car goes nowhere. When it happens is the boost falling off or it stays on full boost? Also, does it still rev out cleanly but just doesnt feel strong? Could be simply clutch slip? Might also be the reason it was fine when your friend looked at, as when clutches first start to show signs it needs a bit of heat to start slipping.

If this worked here is the graph. A LOT smoother tune than previous where boost ramped so hard it wheel span in third and almost in fourth. Now it is a lot more linear and just pulls away very hard in third with no sign of spin at all.

OK, I need a PC literate person here atm. I scanned the graph and the file size is over 11mb. Obviuosly too big but how do I reduce the file size so I can upload it?

Out of curiosity can I ask why you would not use some type of filter before the main fuel pump? As I understand and have witnessed, foreign matter is a major killer of fuel pumps. And having a maximum effort engine last thing you want is a pump failing.

On the R31house site, they show a GTSR resto and it shows a brand spankers turbo so obviuosly they are available but I agree it would have cost a bomb. I have the homologation papers for the GTSR and it doesnt show any turbo changes but I guess it doesnt really mean anything as there was a lot of "grey" areas.

Roy, I am yet to do anything with the dump as I dont know what to do myself! The Ex group A racers are coming for a historics meet at the island in a few weeks so I am going along to try and have a peek at what they did on those things. Kwazza, ecu is Autronic and no porting has been done. Cams are unknown but possibly factory as previous runs have made max power at 6,000-6,100rpm. How was the stroke checked? No idea, I can ask the mech but no the head did not come off. Didnt finish work in time today so will be picking it up tomorrow morning and will put up the graph.

Yes it is an original GTSR. Mods: 3 inch exhaust , A/M Ecu, Injectors, fuel pump, remote mounted falcon coil pack and thats about it. Everything else i.e turbo, extractors and cooler is still factory.

What lies inside the engine is still an unknown quantity. It was supposedly an RB24 but the stroke is still as per factory. A few mechanics have commented it has the "forged piston rattle" on cold start but the car is 19 years old so god knows whats rattling lol. Time will tell whats inside, hopefully not soon though... And I will definately be pulling out some pressure. The gearbox was whining already so I dare say one run through third gear will result in failure.

Well the GTSR recorded its highest ever figure yesterday arvo on the dyno. Last tune made 235rwkw @ 16psi, graph is somewhere in this thread lol. Had some ignition dramas and as I found out a blocked cat so a magic cat was thrown on along with a different ignion setup and they dialled in 22psi to see what it would do and it spat out 283rwkw. When I pick it up I will post the new graph.

""can the silvertop intake manifold be bolted onto a redtop head?"" Um it actually can and is a popular mod in Japan. Just because one head is a twelve porter and the other a six doesnt mean a thing. The RED top eccs has a 12 port head but only has a 6 runner inlet manifold.

Or could just be his turbos seals are gone.

Just go into your local discount variety, two dollar shop etc and buy a pair or two of ratchet tie downs. Should be $5.00 each at best.

I agree that the compound plays a big part in tyres grip as opposed to the actual width. I have a rubber hardness tester at work which the higher the number the harder the rubber is. My 265 rear Yokos which I have always known to be rubbish for traction measured "70" on the durometer. They must have been sitting around a long time before I got the car (they came with them) as I have measured everybodys tyres at work, including light commercial tyres and nothing has come up as hard as my yokos. The average hardness across all cars at work, about 10-15 is "55-60". The boss has a serious car and his MT slicks measured "40". He also has a set of MT ET street radials and they were the identical hardness of the full slicks at "40". The only upside to my tyres is they dont look they have worn a millimetre in 2 years lol. Note that I NEVER do burnouts etc. The only time they spin is when coming onto boost with the pedal down and they still light up hitting boost in third. And with only 320rwhp the tyres are obviously a major problem as this should not happen.

You had the turbo "highflowed", then fitted a decent dump and at that stage this power loss occured between 4500-6000rpm. How positive are you that the cause is the AFM? Because it sounds like a textbook case of the ecus rich and retard strategy. Did you try turning the boost down? Did it still happen?