FATGTS-R

Have you considered the turbo, cooler etc was full of oil because the motor is stuffed? i.e blowby? It is a very common (and costly) mistake for people to rebuild there turbos only to refit the new one and suffer the same oil problems to find out it was never the turbo at fault. The roll over story dont sound good either. The only way engine oil could of got to the cooler is if it was still running when upside down from the oil pouring out the breathers into the intake. And if it was running upside down, the bottom end would not have liked it too much.

Nice result Black sky. Do you have a dyno chart you could post up? Interesting to hear it holds power up to 7500rpm. Mine makes max at 6,000. Where abouts is it hitting full boost, and how much?

This was not in a high performance motor but it relates to engine flushes. The motor was a NA RB30 and I used an off the shelf engine flush. You know, add, run for 10 minutes and dump. Previously the motor had zero oil leaks for the past 6 months I had driven it. Decided to give it an engine flush and within 1 month it was leaking oil in numerous places. I didnt link it to the flush but when I took it to get fixed I commented to the mechanic it was fine and then started leaking oil everywhere and I was still using the same oil. The first thing that was asked was if I had used an engine flush as he said it was a common occurence for this to happen on high milage engines. Supposedly, the oil leaks were technically already there but were being held closed by the sludge etc, the flush removed the sludge and hence it leaked oil. Fact or fiction I dont know, but it made sense to me and I will never use one again.

I had the identical thing happen but luckily only one piece fell in and I could see it sitting on top of the piston using a lead light which was at the top of the bore. I also tried a vacuum but to no avail. Went to Autobarn and bought a "claw pick up tool", $10.00 and that got it out just, as i dropped it twice and nearly lost sight of it. Basically, it is a long flexible coil, thin in diameter, with a small claw on the end. It has a button on the top that when pressed opens the claw, and when released closes it up. TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN PERIL!!!! As mentioned, if other pieces have gone out of sight it can do horrendous engine damage. If you are lucky and it blows out the exhaust it will then make a mess of the exhaust wheel.

Pretty sure there is one in Tullamarine in VIC, I will get back with the details.

The reason why you are having trouble finding info on the conversion is because very very few have done it as opposed to fitting the RB25 head because its easier and the performane gain over the 20 head is a lot greater. But I am sure you have been told this many times by now. In the last 5 years I have only ever seen one Rb20/30 conversion in a VL which was in a magazine. And from memory, it was a hell of a job and the reason it was done was because the RB25 had yet to be released.

"double post, ignore"

Just to clarify, are you going to build an RB30 with RB20 head? Or have I misunderstood?

Without injectors done forget about joing the "260kw" club. And if its a TO4 with internal gate have you got a pic of it? When you said turbo rebuilt to TO4 specs did you mean your stock turbo supposedly built to TO4 specs or another turbo that you have purchased?

Ah geez, I hate threads like this when there is good points made for both for and against and I sit on the fence in my own mind. My Car, R31 GTSR also came with a factory cooler and has no thermostat fitted. I have always wondered what effect it has and take it very slowly for the first 5-10 minutes to try and warm up the oil. I have no oil temp gauge so just wait untill the pressure stabilizes before doing anything rash. What would be the best and safest way to speed up the oil warming process while doing the least harm? Obviously, driving slowly to minimise the air passing through the core but what else? Having a prolonged idle process when started? Idling and blipping throttle? Would it be better when driving to use a lower gear and keep rpms up to warm it up or use a taller gear with more load and have rpms down?

Do you have injectors? And is it an internal or external gated turbo? To hit 260rwkw its gonna need some boost.

Eagerly awaiting this chart with boost/power. Great result.

150k on the clock, who cares? Forget about the odometer reading with an import, especially one as popular as an R33. It is a popular excercise to wind them back as most people know so judge each car on its own merits. I gaurantee there is a lot of cars out there with 150k on the clock in ten times as good nick as others with "80k". Has it a bleed valve, boost gauge, pod etc?? Does it have any service history? Are the rear tyres bald? Brake pads worn out? If unsure on what to look out for get it checked out by an expert including a leak down test on the engine and take it from there. $200 spent on a comprehensive inspection ( not from nrma etc) could save you thousands later. Good luck.

I hope they look after him as well. My car has gone back after initial ecu install at least ten times ( one occasion they used 120 litres of fuel and 15 sets of plugs) with niggling dramas and I have never received an invoice. Top guys. But to be fair they were not the cheapest workshop out there but its paid off with the phenomenal after sales support. If your initial tune was dirt cheap I dare say they mapped for outright power/safety and not much else. Going back asking for economy might incur a bill. As the saying goes you get what you pay for. Good luck.

Good luck with the remote set up Col. Personally, I am throwing mine in the bin and getting some splitfires. Mine is on an RB20 so seperate ignitors but its been nothing but grief all the same. The coils used were three doubles I beleive are standard fitment on the VN holden with some Bosch ignitors. No word of a lie it has failed on me minimum 8 times and the car is sitting in the garage now with yet another melted coil pack. First two times I thought it was the tuner but it has been looked at by other mechanics , auto elecs ( rewired twice) and reps for Autronic and it just keeps on melting. Also spoke to somebody in NSW with identical engine and setup who had the identical problem and also threw it away. At the end of the day it might still be a problem that nobody has picked up on or it might just be the coil packs themselves are hopeless but I just have had enough. I honestly hope you can get yours to run without hiccup and if I can share any advice it would be to be wary of mounting position in relation to heat. Also dont get the whiz bang leads first up, get cheap ones that are longer than you need and use zip ties to mount the coils as you will find you will probably move them around.

Are you sure its using that much fuel? Maybe the gauge is stuffed? Fill it to the top. Drive around a day or so and then fill it again and cross reference kms to litres.

If its the warning light I am thinking of it is the cat overheat warning. Check under your car to see if you still have a wire going into your cat. It is often not hooked up.

A CA18 will fit easy enough as far as a conversion goes. Been done a few times. The stocker is a CA20.

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=27815.15 Have a look halfway down that thread for a pic of the R31GTSR factory manifold. Might be able to still get it through Nissan and if so should be able to get the factory heatsheild as well for a stock appearance.

The rocker breathers on red and silvertops are setup differently and it has the silvertop setup so I wiould say its a silver. Car is red so its feasible it was painted red to match. I have attached two redtop RB20 pics. You can see the different breather setup.

Silvertop will have o ring type oinjectors and redtop has hose tails.

Have a read through the "Top RB20 club, 260rwkw " thread as there is a lot of good info and results from various RB20 configurations. As a comparison I have a T3/T4 hybrid type turbo with internal gate and make around 235rwkw at around 16psi which is seen just before 4,000rpm in 4th on a dyno. Besides the turbo/manifold/gate what else do you have to complement it?

If its the turbo I think it is you would be going backwards fitting it up to an RB20 in my opinion making it a downgrade as opposed to an upgrade. Yes, outright power will increase but the lag associated with it is horrible and the power delivery is very harsh making it a pig to drive on the street. The engine will be asleep up untill 4-4,500rpm (if your lucky) then BAM! it all hits at once and its hard to control. It is able to make well over 200rwkw but you will need cooler,exhaust,fuel system and management to make the most of it but why bother with a dinosaur of a turbo?

I would say its the standard coil packs heating up and then misfiring. Hence why its fine at the start when they are cold.

LOL Pete, that IS (was) your head in the pic!