FATGTS-R

In what way? I have a red eccs in the GTS-R and its 100% a 12 porter and it 100% had the butterflies as I removed them. Its not uncommon for people with red top eccs engines to ditch the butterflies and manifold and use the silver top gear instead. If the head was never removed they would never assume it was a 12 porter. I myself never knew it had 12 ports untill the manifold was removed. The below pics are butterflies and a head from a GTS-R which has a red eccs as standard.

Nics and red eccs are both 12 port heads and silver is 6. The red eccs actually also has the same inlet butterflies as the nics but has a 6 runner manifold like the silver. There are many minor differences between the silver and red eccs like injector sizing, impedance, fuel rails, throttle body sizing, sensors, ecu etc. Do a search as it was covered very recently.

What about the new I colour from blitz? At first I thought it was a gimmic for more $$$ but reading a short blurb on it it supposedly comes with functions to show water temp/ oil temp/ oil pressure/ fuel pressure and a/f ratio? If it controls boost effectively as well the price tag doesnt seem too bad.

Is it really necessary to machine rotors when they have for example a 0.5-1mm groove in them? When I got my new pads fitted I was sure I needed the rotors machined as I had a grove in them but the workshop said not to worry as the pads will wear them flat soon enough anyways and most places will tell you to machine them as to bring the thickness down fastwer to sell you some new rotors. They mentioned that I would only need maching if they were out of round which they weren't. I was bamboozled they didnt machine them and charge me money as I mentioned I thought they needed it.

I have a T3/T04 turbo on my RB20 with a exhaust housing identical to a VL and a TO4 compressor housing. Not sure if the wheels are similar or not. As Disco said, if your upgrading, a bush bearing turbo is not the most ideal thing to replace it with but I guess it all depends on what your budget is and what you want from the car. On my car, lets say second gear and rolling at low rpms and then mashing the throttle it will see about 16psi at approx. 3800rpm but I have a decent manifold thats been designed for this turbo. The power delivery is very harsh. There is nothing linear at all about its delivery. The motor seems asleep and a split second later the boost gauge is peaking and the car is skating all over the road. If friends come for a drive they have a grin from ear to ear for an hour but living with it everyday is a real pain. To answer your question if it could be called an upgrade? Personally I would say its a step backwards.

Hi guys, My R31 was factory fitted with an external engine oil cooler. It does not have a thermostat as I have seen on many an aftermarket oil cooler fitment and was just wondering if there is a detrimental effect I should be worried about. Basically, when the oil is cold it is sent through the cooler and hence delays the warming of the engine oil. My car is street driven 95% of the time.

As a rough guide from VIC prices $5-600 would cover 4-6 hours of dyno time. Instead of asking places how much for a "tune", ask them how much they charge per hour for tuning time on the dyno and then ask how long they think it will take to get it running with the new injectors. In VIC, some places have a flat rate for dyno time i.e $100-120 per hour whereas others will have a higher first hour surcharge and then a flat rate after that i.e first hour $150 then $70 per hour after that. The best advice I can give is dont be shy.

Max power at 8250rpm!! Holy crap, my 20 has never seen anywhere near that in two years. Max power is made at just over 6,000rpm on mine and rev limiter is set to 7,000rpm. If you are making peak power at 8250rpm where did you set your rev limit to?

Cordiapower....Show us a pic of the type of turbo you have from the exhaust side. Then we can tell you if the dump you have is compatible. Some of the older housings with internal gates will not allow for simple fitment of a generic split dump pipe. i.e VL turbo exhaust housings.

What else was done to the car while in the shop? Is it possible something dropped into the head? And then got spat out into the exhaust?

First up I will give the current brake setup. HR31 coupe with R32 GTR rotors and calipers up front with RB74 pads. Rear has standard rotors and single piston calipers with unknown pads. The problem I am having is the braking seems to be biased towards the rear. In an emergency stopping or even a hard braking appplication the rears will lock up first every time swinging the arse end around. Which is nerve racking and obviously not right. Now I dont know much about braking systems but I would of thought that having the significant brake upgrade on the front would of made it even less likely to cause this situation. My questions are: what could of caused this situation? Can it be rectified by taking it in to a brake place? Lastly, could it be simply the RB74s in the front not being up to temp and therefore not biting forcing the rears to do all the work? It most commonly happens in the wet when I am driving very slowly and the brakes are obviuosly a lot colder.

You have PM!

Ha Ha yes unfortunately its part of owning an import. Its always amusing when at a shopping centre or similar in my daily I dont hear revving engines or burnouts. But if Im there in the skyline every commordore, lancer etc will circle me a few times like sharks so I notice them and then when leaving the complex let it rip just to show me " I go fast too" LOL.

Discopotato03, For your information the specs I have of the turbo as stated in the Homologation papers are as follows: Make and type: "Garrett turbo Inc. T3/TO4E" TURBINE Turbine wheel material: "special heat resisting alloy" Number of blades: 11 Heights of baldes: 17.78mm +/- 0.25 IMPELLER Number of blades: 12 Heights of blades: Larger 6, 24.69mm smaller 6, 18.2mm There are also dimentions of entry/exits and internal dimentions of each housing but the diagrams are needed for them to make sense.

Yeah they are T04Es but have a T3 exhaust housing with internal gate, hence a factory hybrid. And they are a Garrett item. Just never been able to find any decent info on them.

Discopotato03, That T3/T04E garret factory hybrid sounds exactly what my turbo could be which is the factory fitment on GTS-Rs. I have never been able to find any decent info on it except from what is written about it in the homologation papers which aint much. Did it look like this?

Red tops (there are two red versions, NICS and ECCS) have a 12 port head as opposed to silver tops 6. Reds have a smaller turbo. Reds have low imp hose tail injectors, silver has high imp O ring type. Reds are older and from the 31 series cars and parts are a lot scarcer. Factory VS factory setup the silver has more power. Engines alone with identical ancillaries I reckon there would not be much if anything at all in the power difference.

Correct. On an internal gated turbo, and a RB25 one at that I would say get the split pulse dump that joins back to the exhaust system. Just get one that seperates the wastegate gasses for a decent length, say 300mm if possible. Not the ones you see that seperate it for 50mm. A screamer version, which vents it to atmo "might" make a tiny bit more but is ridiculously loud which attracts unwanted attention and is also illegal to boot.

8700rpm?? And it needs a tune? Sheezus. What valve train components and cams are you using? Mine makes max power at ~6100rpm and limiter is set to 7K. Robo's is making 6psi at around 2200rpm with an RB25 which is 25% larger in capacity than an RB20 so its gonna spool the same turbo 25% earlier so I guess 2800rpm is around the mark.

Ok, just posting a brief update on my car. Took it out for the cars and also my first quarter mile action at Heathcote. Really really bad axle tramp and wheelspin. The car was shaking so hard the boost gauge rattled off the dash! LOL. Couldnt do better than 2.5 60 footers. My initial plan was to crack 13s and 110mph. But just missed out on both. Ran 14.2/3 every run and 108-109mph. Popped my drag cherry and will attack calder asap.

R31NISMOID has misread SKs post. Its the same here in VIC as in NSW. Premium is about 5-6 cents more than regular, with 98 another 4 cents on that.

LOL. There is not much anybody can do. Just remember, the next time you answer somebodys question in a thread, think to yourself, did I post the same question once upon a time? I know I have answered and helped people on these forums from info I received from it in the past and yet there is still a lot I have to learn. Having 17 year olds, and some 25 year olds for that matter asking "How much boost has it got" isnt going to stop shortly. Another problem is a lot of the workshops cashing in on the craze and taking a lot of these guys money. I was at a particular workshop recently picking up a mates car and overheard the mechanic talking to a P plate 180sx owner. The mechanic lifted a bonnet of a GTR ( highly modified) to point out a nice blue Gates timing belt showing the kid "see, this makes xxxkw" and then said leave the cover off because it looks heaps better. The guy had a grin from ear to ear and asked "whats the purple HKS wheels for" which the mech replied " they give you more power mate, I can do them too for xx$$$" The kid didnt want to know the price he just asked if it would run 13s now. He booked it in but god knows how much the poor buggers gonna pay for it. But he hasnt learnt a thing. He doesnt even know what the cam gears do or how they work and the mechanic wasnt interested in telling him. He just saw dollar signs when the kids eyes lit up at the GTR engine bay.

That comes more down to suspension and tyres. R31Nismoid and myself have the same cars. I have 265 yoko rear rubber and 235rwkw and break traction in third as it ramps up to boost. He has generic rubber, 235 I think and his old engine made ~300rwkw and didnt blink in third. Obviously his suspension and alignment settings are more sorted than mine.

This aint gospel as I have not done it myself but I was told that you can definately use coils with ignitors inbuilt on an older RB with a seperate ignitor. I assume the inbuilt ignitor is just disabled and they function like normal.

Or the seal on your turbo could be on its way/gone.