FATGTS-R

The capacity increase alone without taking into account the other planned mods aint going to do a significant amount in the way of reducing lag. Going to 2.7 from 2.6 is a displacement increase of ~4%. So in theory a turbo would operate ~4% earlier in the rev range to an equivalent 2.6.

My friend has a T-trim on a holden/isuzu rodeo 3.2 6cyl which was stroked to 3.7l and it pushes just over 400rwkw with 25psi. But oh my god are those things damn loud at just idle!! The BOVs vent constantly and they scream. To the uninitiated it sounds like something is wrong from the loud grinding sound from the supercharger. Somebody mentioned about your diff and torque. This rodeo had a new ford 9 inch and on its first pass (slicks) it smashed the living daylights out of it. Fitted up a strange full spool and next time out spat out an axle. Fitted in some moser axles and tried again and then it ripped the front of the diff housing off. This is with a six so yeah its gonna make some grunt with your package. A t-trim at full noise on your motor in an R33 will run deep into the 11's if not a 10 if you can put it down.

who else has had leakdown tests performed? 2% from a nearly 100k motor that has been modified for a few thousand ks is amazing isnt it? When I bought my car odometer said 150k and leakage was 9% on the worst cylinder which I was told was satisfactory. Out of curiosity, what oil do you use?

Idler/tensioner bearings should also be changed. Along with engine seals. Also a good time to get the radiator flushed/repaired/upgraded.

legend01..... What are the specs of your to4E and is it internal or external gated? Your graphs look virtually identical to mine except my high boost setting is a little lower. Mine is internal gated T3/T04E. T04 compressor housing and wheels and a T3 exhaust housing.

I paid $300 for mine and then $25 per injector to clean/flow test/balance etc. I didnt need the resistor pack so cant comment on there value.

Also, some of those citrus based concentrate cleaners work like magic. Oh, and dental floss and hair dryer will be added to my mental hardrive. Great idea.

If it was me I would use the clutch. As you are going to want the lower level for launching you could have a push in switch when the pedal is all the way depressed having the lower limit and once off and running it will be constantly on the high setting. Would eliminate having to think about it and give more concentration on other things, and dismiss any chance of forgetting to switch it or not switching it properley.

I had strained eyes at the blue look but this default skin is much easier on the eyes. I will put another vote in to bring back, if at all possible the preview to the thread when hovered over with the mouse. As mentioned, it makes the forum experience faster ( for those of us who should be working lol ) and was a god send when i used to have a slow net connection. And as somebody mentioned, what is a blog?

Sorry for being uneductaed in these sort of things but how do I use this default skin you guys speak of to make the text bigger? Because I am also having eye straining issues. Thanks EDIT~~ Found it. Thanks for the tip it is much easier on the eyes.

Got any images of the turbo?

From what I have seen and experienced the standard cams fall over at approx. 6,000rpm. Although a lot of cars feel as though they are still pulling away strongly after 6k, mine included, a dyno graph will show power on the decline after that mark. A good example is Troys RB20 who from memory makes peak power between 6-6.2krpm. But shifts far north of 7,000rpm on occasions.

Thanks for the tip cubes. Can you explain to me the technical reason why it would run leaner? If its really that great a difference I will take it past the tuner first.

What he said^^^^^^. Interested on cam specs and what turbo is being used. Nice result. Its not just top end thats improved it has gained power everywhere. At 4,000rpm both setups are on par at approx. 100rwkw. But from then on the new setup is ahead on average 15rwkw all the way to 6500rpm and then gets better from there. I was always under the impression cams would sacrifice a little down low for the gains up top but this setup has proven me wrong. Do you have the boost graph from before? Because it even looks like boost is coming in earlier?

Well the timing cover was whipped off today and the vibration on mine ( RB20) was definately the bearing. Shining a torch in there revealed metal shavings from where the bearing has been chewing itself out and the belt itself was a lot looser than one would hope. Looks like I found mine sooner rather than later. Hopefully those meatal shavings havent caused any further damage.

Well after finally sorting out the new ignition set up it made 235rwkw at 16psi but Im not happy with the result. Previously it made 225rwkw with 12psi. Overlaying the two graphs the 12psi run is ahead on power all the way untill over 5,000rpm and it comes on boost noticably earlier as well. The cause has been a melted cat from all the rich running sorting out the igntion dramas. And to make matters worse I had a nasty vibration from the timing cover two days after getting it back which has revealed itself to be a shot idler bearing so its off the road again. I have an R31 Club drag day on the 20th of August so I will just pull the cat back system off and see how much wheelspin I can bog myself in on the line and report back. **edit. Here is the graph. Red line is 7psi. Blue line is 16psi.

I had a few ignition problems with my new setup and it dropped a cylinder on me a few times and I had the same rough running (rich as hell). My CAT overheat light also popped up a few times as well. When it all got sorted and went back on the dyno it struggled to make the same power and needed 5psi more boost to match the same outright power but was still down on average power. The cause was found to be a literally melted shut cat.

For your information I got a quote from TNT yesterday to ship a customers car from metro Melb to metro Brisbane door to door and it was $712.00 plus GST. Depot to depot was approx. $200 cheaper.

Where are the injectors located on a silvertop RB20? I have a red top ECCS RB20 and injectors are located in the intake runners approx. 100mm away from the head. I'm not sure if this was a unique mounting position on my car (GTSR) as there is provision to mount injectors straight into the head which have been plugged up from factory.

Ahhh interesting. I have a shitload of "bartercard" dollars to spend and this might be a good place if they are a member. If not I might have to spend my own money lol.

Well I'm not a member yet so not sure if I'm able to tag along but have been watching the WPT on the TV and looked at a few games online and its sucked me in and all of a sudden I think I'm a whiz lol. So yeah, if you dont mind a total stranger coming into your game Leewah I would love to come along, obviously pending date and time. regards Jayson. Player: 1. Leewah 2. Jamezilla 3. cole_trx 4. linxus40 5. ferni 6. krzysiu 7. Blade 8. FATGTS-R 9. 10. etc.

Does it have 4 or 6 ignition drivers?

Get on yellow pages online and search "car freighters". Ring around a few and get a guage on pricing as it can vary up to $2-300. I dont think there would be a particular company that is going to take a lot more care than others because at the end of the day it all comes down to the driver who loads the car on the truck. If you are worried, get the person who is selling to remove the front bar and put it inside the car.

I beleive the traction control in an Autronic SM2 is used in conjunction with wheel speed sensors which have to be purchased seperatley.

If you are running a catch can then your inlet tract should be clean. Pull off the pipes and check. If they are full of oil then the only place it could come from is the turbo. But to complicate matters further, I had a blown headgasket on an old daily driver and no water was getting into the sump. Has your water temp increased? And is it like thick white smoke that lingers around or more closer to being steam?