FATGTS-R

Should have another dyno graph up today hopefully. Had many niggling ecu troubles of late but looks like its all sorted. If it goes through its cold start cycle this morning without any hiccups I can pick it up. Changes made from the 225rwkw run are a different ignition setup, went remote mount VT coils ( didnt see the $600 nengun splitfires oh well ) and spark gap was able to increase from 0.6 to 0.9mm. Also swapped out the GTR injectors for same capacity high impedance 4 pintle Bosch ones that are used in XR6T upgrades. Outright power has increased to 238rwkw on 12psi and I will see the average gains when I get the graph.

I have also breifly considered doing this and from what I understood the toyota pistons needed are from a toyota 4agze as they are forged and ceramic coated to suit the factories supercharger. But I beleive there were two different compression ratios in the gze, hence two different types of gze piston and there is also an issue with pin height. Where can you get an RB26 crank with rods for $300??? Anyways, this has been covered many times and there is more info hiding under the search button. Try RB24/23 etc.

I have the original red LED display model and for 400m testing weight is not needed to be entered as it measures G force to calculate your time. Entering weight was only needed if you wanted it to calculate horsepower. With the original model I had the hardest thing was to get it to sit correctly which would give inconsistent times if not 100% level on the windscreen. I read a review in Zoom I think and they mentioned this problem had been eliminated and accuracy was pretty good too with the latest models. And if people want to weigh there cars I have never been charged on a weigh bridge as I dont want a printout. I just drive on, look at the weight,and drive off.

Not sure what the losses are for a GTR but if it made 400hp on a 2wd dyno then obviously you dont have ~300awkw, you have 300kw at the rear wheels. Which is pretty well on the limit for standard injectors as in theory they should max at about 520-530bhp.

Wow those prices have certainly dropped. Not even 12 months ago I paid $700 for two of them at trade price and the retail was $1,000 for two. But since then I have noticed two other brands making a similar tubular CAT.

benl1981 if you have not had any problems with misfire etc I would keep the 1.1mm gap.

If anything wouldnt forged internals decrease response? Due to making the rotating assembly heavier?

I'm having a few issues with boost control also and for ~$30 I'm willing to give this a go even if it doesnt work. I noticed someone mention they received a blue one as opposed to the red ones pictured. What other colours are avilable? If possible I would prefer a black one.

So what does the 'S" designate? I had the BCPR6ES and also had misfire problems and then they were changed for BCP6E which stopped the misfire. I asked about the R which I was told was a resistor to stop interference from stereos or something but dont know what the S stands for. I double checked and they are definatelty BCP6E.

The magic cat manufacturers can supply 3 inch reducers if you want or you can get your local exhaust shop/yourself to do it. They retail for $500.00 or $350 trade. Search "magic cat" and look for sydneykids comparison with a magic cat, "highflow" cat and straight pipe. Interesting stuff.

I concur. I have 265 rear rubber and doing a launch and then going back and looking at the patch only about a third of the tyre is making decent contact with the road.

Sydneykid, you stated harder springs equalling less traction. This statement I can understand with a live rear end but with the primitive design ( compared to later models ) of the HR31 IRS, soft springs, especially the standard gear send the rear into enomous negative camber lifting a lot of the rubber off the road. Many owners have reported success in better traction and faster 1/4 mile times when going to harder rear suspension.

I find it nearly humourous all the troubles I have had and I do post them. I had my ecu installed about a year ago and the longest I have had the car on the road for is about a month. Soon after the ecu install it blew the inlet manifold gasket, so back it went and I decided to upgrade the fuel system while the plenum was off meaning I could run more boost. Got it back and after about two weeks the coils died. Went back in again to upgrade ignition system and got it back last Thursday. Drove it around for two hours and pretty sure I damaged 2nd gear as its whining its arse off. Didnt drive it Friday but took it out Saturday night just to cruise around. That was fine for about an hour and then it started to sound like a WRX coughing and farting everywhere. I checked all the obviuos things and cant find anything so called a mate with a tandem where its still sitting on waiting for some time for the 100km round trip to Bayswater. There you have it. How many Hail marys will fix this curse I have Father Roy?

You would have to be blind if on this forum and in this section and not know that "Ben from racepace" and "power FC" are common demoninators. But does he play with Autronic as well? Anyone have an Autronic equipped car and had Ben tune it?

Same here. I have a heavy twin plate and it ended up mangling the bracket so far the clutch pedal sat on the fire wall and I had to pull it up with my foot first to press the clutch in. Apparently a common prob with heavy pedal effort clutches. Not sure with your car but with the HR31 its made from thin metal with just a few spot welds here and there. Got another one out of a Pintara and it was welded up properley with extra plate steel reinforcement. I would just get one in good nick from a wrecker and reinforce it as it will only happen again. The dash didnt "have" to come out but it was of those " get out you f@cking little c@nt of a thing" type of jobs.

I have an aussie R31 with the rb30e. It has 300,000ks and hasnt been serviced in 50,000ks, literally. It only does start stop driving with no trip greater than 15-20ks and it returns 12l/100km in a 5 speed.

If in both cases the engine is receiving identical air flow and at identical inlet temp my first thought would be to answer that power would be identical also.

With the turbo that big it would have to rev really damn high to make those numbers. Can the stock innards even live for 10 passes revving beyond my shoe size? With nitrous and god knows what boost level? Phenomenal effort if its truly a completely standard engine but looking at the rest of the car and the engine ancillaries one would have to ask why? It doesnt look like budget was the issue.

Interesting in the WHEELS test that those Maxxis came third overall and were the cheapest out of all nine. They also had the widest tyre contact area with the road. And I think they were also the softest compound, I think. I have actually never heard of them before. Anybody used a set or heard any other positive or negative stories about them?

http://www.grid.co.jp/DAT/unitdat.txt try there. Although I know that it doesnt list all ecu numbers and I cant see how to decipher VCT it might be of some help.

One of the next things I plan to do with my car is install some cam gears so have begun to do some research. MATERIALS: Looking at the advertising speels a lot of companies (recently HKS comes to mind) promote the materials they use citing fancy metal names (duralymium sp?) that the layman has never heard of. Why? Do cheaper, supposedly less quality gears brake, wear out etc? I ask as my car is from 1987 with what I assume are the original factory gears and they look fine. What are the factory ones made of? DESIGN: Cruising around the net looking at images of different brands of gears the one that stood out as odd was HKS in the fact they only have 3 bolts to tighten the adjustable part as opposed to most others having 4 or 5 and I think I saw one with six. Isnt it obvious that the more securing bolts the better? Or am I missing something? Why would HKS, a supposedly reputable a/m parts supplier skimp in that area? FAILURES: Lastly, who has had a bad expereince with cam gears? Either failure of some sort, premature wear etc? What exactly happened and what brand were they? Just hoping to get some decent feedback and maybe help a few others who want more than an anodised cog that matches there colour scheme. Also would like to hear from people who have had custom cam gears made. Material used, pricing etc. Thanks in advance. Jayson.

Wouldnt having a larger rolling diameter over standard decrease rpms needed for the same speed? i.e with larger wheels your speedo goes out, showing you travelling at a slower speed than you actually are.

Also was there any significant difference in tyre wear between the bridgestone, pirelli and michelin?

Hi yogi great result. Can you post the boost curve as well? You mentioned wanting to get full boost at 3500rpm so when is it actually hitting full boost now?

"I'm after a BOV that'll sound like a the GTR stock noise - more of a screech than a pssht... any1 know of a BOV that has the GTR kinds sound output?" Ummm....why not fit some GTR bovs?