FATGTS-R

Your right foot will have more effect on fuel consumption than turning a dial under the bonnet. As mentioned, if you are playing around with boost settings get a boost gauge. How else you gonna answer the 15 year old kids when they say " How much boost has it got?". "11 clicks dude" LOL

What exactly is rotational idle? Isnt something used in conjunction with anti lag to help rapidly cool the engine? Bit out of my scope here but wouldnt a wasted spark set up also put extra load on coils since they are firing twice as much as factory? And if he has the V4 plus Wolf it has 6 ignition drivers so no need for a wasted setup.

clutch slip?

http://www.grid.co.jp/DAT/unitdat.txt The above link has no listing for MEC-212 but has MEC-213 listed for R32. But I know that it doesnt list every ecu model for some reason.

Pretty sure injector flow formula is as follows: CC of injector divided by 5 x how many cylinders = Max BHP at 100% duty. So, 440cc divided by 5 = 88 x 6 cylinders = 528BHP.

Flicking through an old mag and they made mention of N1 turbos and NISMO Group A turbos. Both available through Nissan apparently. Saying the N1s were same size as standard with better flow capabilities obviously and that the Group A turbos were identified by there larger 0.6 compressor housing. Maybe this is the confusion or group A turbos are something different again?

unfortunately no. He bought an old XF for a project and they were on that.

Read the May Wheels last night and they also did a tyre test. I'll post more detailed findings when I get home but what stood out in my mind was the tyre that they rated third out of about 7 or 8 I think was the cheapest out of all. Cant think of its name but it starts with M. Mirrza - Mizza something like that. Interestingly, second overall was the michelin which did not win any of there controlled tests but stayed consistent over all of them. This test was on 235/45 R17s.

Never good to hear a business going under. Commiserations to the owners. It happened to a close friend many years ago and the ramifications were ugly. Business - income - cars - house - marriage all disappeared before his eyes. In this case, I dont envy the people who where having major work done on there cars nor the people whos job it is to refuse entry to the owners. What will happen to people who go to collect there cars to see it in pieces? And then look around to not see there pieces sitting anywhere? I forsee some possible ugly scenes. Hope all works out smoothly for all parties involved.

How much effect would the gearing in the VL (3.45) have?

Hard to explain but anyone ever seen the locknuts where they actually are a "lock" in the centre of the nut? And the "key" is not a special type of socket but actually a key like every other on your keyring? Without the key, the nut just spins and spins without unwinding itself. When you put the key in and lock the internal mechanism you can then wind it off with a normal socket. A workmate had them on his car which he purchased and I think they are are great but I have not been able to find a place that sells them. The advantage I see is that as its a normal key its on your keyring and you can also get it cut as well as it being in your pocket at all times as opposed to being a socket sitting in your car where the wheels are. Lets face it, most people would keep the socket type key in the car which is pointless as theives would know this. Your not gonna carry a socket in your pocket everywhere and leaving it at home is useless when you have a flat in the middle of nowhere. Anyone know what I'm talking about and know where to purchase theses from?

If I'm understanding your explantion correctly it sounds like clutch slip.

Could be inlet leak as above person mentioned. My inlet manifold gasket blew on firewall side underneath and couldnt be seen. Same symptoms as you and was also worse when not at full temp. I guess because as the metal heated up and expanded it closed the leak down a bit.

read in the local rags that there has been a bit of a blitz in the north/west recently. Also read something about a "hoon line" being operational? Approx. two weeks ago there was a major police set up in Deer park. About 20-30 officers had set up camp in a church car park and drivers unlucky enough to get pulled in had to run the gauntlet. Alchohol/drug test, followed by a roadworthy test, and then a check on your identity to see if you have outstanding warrants, either criminal or sherriff related. To be fair, I was in the skyline and got waved through. The paper later reported there main agenda was a large database of outstanding warrants.

What does the quote include? i.e is it for disassembly and reassembly only? Parts and machining included? Engine in and out of car?

Ghostflame, try fitting up a plumback bov as that I think is your problem. As SK mentioned, when you close your throttle the air has to go somewhere and in your case it would be coming out your air filter. My car, HR31, had no bov fitted from factory and it suffered in the same way. Stock turbo (T3/4) and 6psi boost saw it stall a few times everyday. I would hate to see somebody spend a packet on an ecu when the fix could of come in the form of a $40 bosch bov.

Autronic also has the "autotune" option which is very good and offsets some of the higher initial outlay for the ecu by reducing considerably the tuning time.

From your quote zymotic they are claiming KW, not RWKW.

Have you tried plumbing back the bov?

I can tell you now that mentioning the word workshop and Bayswater in the same sentence is going to result in many replies saying "go around the corner and see Ben at racepace instead" as he has a strong allegiance of loyal customers on this board and I guess its for a reason. In saying that, my car is in Dynomotives workshop at the moment. They have done a lot of maintenance work on my car as well as install and tune my Autronic with great results. I have yet to have a problem so for now thats where it goes. I would not say they are "skyline specialists" but they know there shit and have had great results with all vehicles. Of note is there own TT VY ute which was the first nine second LS1. Everyone has heard a horror story for every workshop out there so take advice with a grain of salt. Pricing? Not many of the decent shops in Bayswater are cheap. The best advice I can give is what I did myself and that is to either call around or visit in person the Bens, Marks, Simons etc and speak to them for a few minutes and see who you feel comfortable with.

We have all our fleet at work tracked using the satellite/ gsm system and it is a wonderful piece of gear. We have a pc with large hard disk space that was included in the package which we are able to "live track" the vehicles when they are on the road to see there position. If we dont live track the vehicle, as soon as it returns to base it auto downloads its days events through the aerial we have mounted on the roof of the depot. In relation to systems that dont get coverage everywhere, we originally had this system years ago and as mentioned dont use satellite technology. They work ( well ours did) on the old analogue/cdma mobile phone towers and triangulated your postion from the nearest 3 towers hence when in remote/rural areas we lost track of the vehicle.

"Very creative thinking, what were you drinking? In R&R protection, the rich is ~10% and the retard ~5 degrees. For any decent anti lag you would need ~30% rich and ~25 degrees retard. That way you would have sufficient unburnt fuel and the exhaust valve would be open when the plug fires. Launch Control and Anti Lag are 2 different things. Launch control is for limiting the wheelspin." Ha Ha, yes this was a turps enriched idea. Thanks for the reply which shows the ecus strategy aint enough to do anything except make a horrible noise. I understand the difference between launch control and anti lag. I guess for a cruder term I should have said "launch anti lag" as this theory wont work on the run so to speak. Thanks for the input.

"if u wanna completely shorten the life span of your turbo and your engine by dropping timing and dumping fuel into your engine to make the bang bigger........ go for it i'll help you pick up the pieces." Thanks for that champ. I am well aware of the detrimental effects on manifolds, turbines and exhaust valves when used constantly but thats not what I asked. Thanks for your input anyway.

Hi Adrian Are there any ways to control nitrous delivery? From what I understand when its activated the jet flows 100% straight up. Is there ways of adjustment, or additional products that can be added so that when the nitrous is activated it starts off flowing say 15%, then 40% and then 100% flow over say 2 seconds? Or a way to control its delivery flow cross referenced against rpm? Like 3krpm 25%,4k 50%, 5k 80% etc ?

Hey guys, Having a conversation today about anti lag setups with a mate. Now from my basic understanding, anit lag set ups for launch control work on the principle of a rich mixture combined with retarded ignition timing with your right foot planted to bring the turbo up on boost. Now this is just a theory only, so anybody with greater knowledge can pick the holes in it but take the RB25 engine with its stock ecu for example and its "rich and retard" strategy when the afm volts get close to 5.0v. The electrical wizards would know how to implement this but lets say you could make the afm see 4.5-5.0 volts with a switch or button hence putting the ecu in its rich and retard mode, you could then press this button, plant right foot and see a few pounds of boost pressure while stationary. Obviously, it would depend on how rich and retarded the ecu made things and how much is required for anti lag but couldnt this work?