FATGTS-R

Hi guys, Had my car tuned recently and many people have looked at the chart and think its a high possibility that the capacity has been raised on my RB20. Personally, I think its still a 2 litre but with so many people thinking otherwise I thought I would post it here to get a few more thoughts. Engine: RB20DET - Red top eccs 12 port. Mods: (R31 GTSR) Factory front mount, TO3/4E, long runner exhaust manifold ( black hpc ), pod ( no cai ), 3 inch exhaust and stand alone management. 12 psi. So whats peoples thoughts?

http://www.designengineering.com/products.....asp?m=sc&cid=1 Check out that link. Its a system that uses Co2 as a cooling medium. Basically whats inside a fire extinguisher. Only costs about $20 to fill the bottle and its not flammable. A friend has purchased both the intercooler element and the bulb for inside the intake. Will have results when its installed. Looks very interesting.

http://www.designengineering.com/products.....asp?m=sc&cid=1 Check out that link. Its a system that uses Co2 as a cooling medium. Basically whats inside a fire extinguisher. Only costs about $20 to fill the bottle and its not flammable. A friend has purchased both the intercooler element and the bulb for inside the intake. Will have results when its installed.

"Is there someway we can make COD compulsary? does that put the seller out in anyway? dont want to hijack your thread but if there is someway all this stuff can be stopped we should try and enforce it." COD can only backfire on the seller if you dont go to the post office and collect it. They return it to the seller and that person has to pay the freight charges. This can be avoided by the buyer transfering the cost of freight charges only beforehand to cover the buyer if they dont collect it. But...its not foolproof. Even though you dont have to pay untill it arrives, you still cant see what has been sent if its boxed up. You give P.O money - they give you a parcel - you go home and open it up to find a lump of coal inside it.

LOL, Im missing a couple as well and it rattles like crazy.

I have an R31 so cant confirm but to me it looks like where the bolts to hold down the heat sheild should be??

Interesting They let you reel off all of your mods ( knowing they are illegal ) and charge you more money for doing so. But if a claim was to be made, they could tell you to read the policy stating about the legalities of mods and could refuse the claim. Who has made a claim and had no hassles, with declared mods?

Who has illegal mods and has insurance and has made a claim and not been detected or actually been rejected? Who has "forgotten" to mention everything? When you read all the companies policy terms, it clearly states the car must comply with the states regulations. Now considering a pod and an a/m cooler are not allowed ( in VIC anyway ) there must be many many of you guys that have more illegal mods, management etc and also pay a shitload p/a for cover?

I would like to have the announcer give at least a brief description of what the car has. Because it would give credit where credits due. e.g an R33 GTSt pulls 300rwkw and people think, wow decent power. But if it was noted beforehand it had a T88 or similar and was running 25psi then all of a sudden its no big deal. On the other hand, if it made 300rwkw with a high flow then it would be a huge acheivment.

Interesting to know that not all twin plates rattle, I was always told they did as mine does it as well. But its so loud that I actually hate it. If I come home late at night the neibours complain more about the clutch rattle than the exhaust note.

my friend has a drag set up rodeo and it was originally duel fuel before he went crazy with power mods. He also heard about these gas injectors and investigated and ran into the same brick wall. They were "under development" and not quite ready. Dont quote me, but from memory one of the problems was the injectors freezing up ( apparently they ran OK in QLD but try run them in colder climates and they were cactus )and they were looking into a way of heating them or similar but the end cost was going to be way over the top for the hardware they needed to use to heat them or something along those lines.

I had a similar problem that went away when it warmed up. The problem was a leak in the inlet manifold gasket. When it warmed up, and everything expanded the leak sealed up and it ran fine. Wasnt untill the gasket blew out completely that I found the problem.

Someone mentioned he was test driving the car. Assuming it is correct, what are your responsibilities when taking one for a spin? i.e. Are you fully liable for any damage you may inflict? Is the dealer who handed you the keys have any responsibility? Surely demonstartion vehicles must have to have some sort of cover?

Interesting Ben101. At present my fuel economy is ridiculous. Approx. 18L/100km on CRUISE! I have recently had an ecu fitted up and obviously it needs to go back as not much attention was paid to cruising mixtures. I would be a happy chappy indeed if all the problem was is a rich tune, but honestly I had never heard of rich mixtures causing excessive blowby but it sounds feasible.

No,not 19% difference. Besides having the compression test done I also had a leak down test performed and the worst leakage was 19%. Not a 19% difference between cylinders on the comp test. The biggest difference between cylinders on the comp test was about 3%.

"alsohavign larger wheels eg 18's arnt going to help you get traction get wider tyres" Actually, larger wheels can help you gain traction in some circumstances as you have a larger footprint on the road. i.e a 14inch with 225s vs an 18inch with 225s, the 18 will have more tyre in contact with the road.

I like your idea 2LV. Sounds simple enough. But I was hoping there was a "automated" way of doing it but thinking about it Im not sure there is.

Got a frustrating prob with my car at the moment. It is breathing a significant amount of oil from the breather. If I nail it all the way through 2nd, 3rd and 4th ( RB20 - 225rwkw ) it will spew out approx. 5 tablespoons worth of oil. Now before I am told the rings etc are gone and I need a rebuild etc a compression and a leak down test were carried out with the results not pointing to a stuffed cylinder instantly. Compression was on average 150 with no other cylinder more than 5 away and the worst leakage was on cylinder 6 with 19%. The mechanic told me that 19% isnt the best but should in no way let that much oil get out. Is it possible that a cylinder with 19% leakage can let that much oil get through and indeed a do need a rebuild? Or could it be something else? I have been given two other possibilities as to the cause ( not from mechanics ): The gauze that is meant to be under the breather hole has been removed at some time causing an excessive amount of oil to get in or the oil drainage from the rockers has partially blocked over time meaning the oil is getting up there fine but it cant drain back fast enough and its getting sucked up through the breather? Any help on this matter would be much appreciated. Thanks

Hi guys, I have heard of catch cans where the oil that is collected is then drained to the sump somehow instead of just emptying the can or running it back to intake. How is this style of catch can set up? I am sure its not as easy as just plumbing a line into the sump from the can otherwise nobody would bother with the cans and just run hose from the rockers straight to sump.....right?

I have also heard very good reports about the magic cats. I am planning to fit one up to my car as it has been running very very rich and it lost a few kw on the dyno which I am assuming is because it has started melting the insides of it. Devious plug: I can get the magic cats for $450 if anybody wants one.

What is the model designation of the grey one with 26 inside?

Well on my shitbox daily R31 I changed from the stock 14s to 15 inch rims. I cant comment about handling as its never driven hard around any bends. But on the pothole and bumps issue I was literally astonished at how much more I could feel every little imperfection on the road compared to the 14s. The ride was noticably more harsh. But in performance car applications, I guess it would be a positive to "feel" more of the road.

Dont know if its the cause with you, but I also had a clunk in the front passenger side of my car that visually nothing looked wrong. Untill one day the car went in for a clutch repair and the strut fell out and landed on the guard. The problem was a shagged strut top rubber. From underneath it looked fine but from the top it was completely worn away. I never knew this as the strut brace I have covers the whole top of the tower. It started off only clunking when under severe load and slowly got worse and happened in daily driving. Also get the shock checked out. My Mums car was a bit clunky and turned out to be buggered shocks.

Wont work for me. "windows media player can not open the file because the server is not responding...blah blah" I am a computer noob so why wont it work?

Good point Roy. I guess I will have to see what my rpm drop is between each gear change and plot it against the graph and decide if I need to raise it at all.