FATGTS-R

The current issue of Zoom mag has the beginning stages of putting an RB26 into a 4 door R33 backed by a modified factory AUTO. The workshop that modded the auto, M V automatics, claimed it will handle the power fine and also not be un street friendly with over the top harsh shifting. And it wasnt an expensive excercise either, under $500 is what it cost to beef the auto.

OK, I have spacers on the front end of my car and I want to get rid of them. But I want to keep my wheels. They are 2/3 piece but it dont matter as my issue is not with the rim itself but the centre piece fouling on the caliper. I was thinking I could get 2 piece brake rotors with the centre hat made to suit so I can eliminate the spacer. It sounds like an easy fix but is there any issues I am not thinking about? Would there be any issue with the centre bearing?

On the porsche topic, I would love the Gembala GTR 700.

Can you explain the reasoning behind not having to do seatbelts and the fuel restrictor?? I understand some rules about things might be different state to state but ADRs are ADRs. ( AUSTRALIAN design regulations) or whatever it stands for. Also for some reason, when my 15 year old import was complied they also had to change my sun visors. Not sure what for though, they couldnt even tell me the reason.

Well the method I use is usually just keep it in the gear i was in and roll to a stop using the brakes. Sometimes I will practice the heel/toe but not usually, I usually practice the heel/toe while gearing down for corners. When I first had my license I would shuffle all the way down the gear box when coming to a stop all of the time. Went for a drive with a mechanic to let him see a fault and he asked why I did that, and I said I just do it to help slow down the car. He told me even though if I kept it in the one gear and not downshifted I would increase brake wear, it was better as opposed to causing wear on synchros and the clutch as well because I would rather replace brake pads a tiny bit more often as opposed to a clutch or rebuilding the box. I took his advice and its now second nature.

Well the car was taken around to AEM for Steve to have a look and get this plug made up. He looked at the ecu and said it was different to what he thought and that an R32 and the VL plug in will not work as easily as he thought and with all the mucking around involved I would be better to just get the wire in version. So I needed to make a decision as to what avenue I would take. As I have spent a lot of money and time trying to track down this damn cut, so the workshop offered to wire in an Autronic for less than the price of the Wolf and i accepted.

RTHRTY3: If you are getting a sound that is like you have a pod, but you dont have one, it might be a leak in your inlet tract. Check all hoses for leaks and any cracks from the airbox to throttle body. nismo_GTS: If you want to rule out the filter being dirty as the problem, just remove it altogether and go for a spin around the block.

What car do you have and what mods? Is it also running very rich?

" The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of a cheap buy"

Thanks for the plug in info Steve. Got in touch with Steve from AEM and apparently all I need is to have an adapter plug made up to join the pug in to my loom. Can you verify that the car you are talking about was cutting, but the afm seeing max voltage was not the cause?

sorry steve you replied too fast. I changed my post.

Funny you say that as my car was on the dyno with a/f ratios of between 9-10:1 so yes , its running extremely rich. Are you saying the cut is caused by overfuelling and not too much airflow? Because as I said the afm voltage is fine. Also note that the cut out is very inconsistent, it will cut at say 7 psi, you back off and get back on and then it will cut at 2psi, then 3psi, then 8 psi then 1psi then........you get the picture.

Now, I have a HR31 GTS-R which still has its RB20DET-R. The only mods apart from the factory fitted goodies are a 3 inch exhaust, pod filter, BOV, GTR pump and a non elec. boost controller. By looking at the terrible state of the wiring, its obvious this car had many gadjets on it in Japan. It came out here with an FCON but it got junked. The maximum boost I have ever got the car to hit was 10 psi. On average it will cut at about 7-8 psi. If I am on the freeway in fifth and plant it, it might cut as low as 3-5psi. Every workshop would just say "your air flow meter has maxed out". But I always thought this was strange because its a friggin GTS-R for f@cks sake, you would not think it would have such a low threshold for the AFM. I asked another GTS-R owner what boost his car had when standard and he told me it was at about 14psi, thats sounds a lot better and feasible than my 7psi. It has been on the dyno last week and is cutting as soon as boost starts to come on, like 1-3psi I assume because of the extra load of a dyno. They put a multi meter on the AFM and it is no where near 5.0 volts when the cut hits. Renewed plug,cleaned element and tried again. Same thing happened. OK, maybe the AFM is rooted. So different ones were tried and still the cut appears. Put the ecu into diagnostics mode and it is saying that all is well, didnt give one single error. WHAT ELSE COULD BE CAUSING THIS? BTW, the cut is a hard cut. It is instant and brutal. nearly headbutt the steering wheel when it happens. When it happens the accelerator will die, the revs start dropping as if i have clicked it into neutral. I have to take my foot completely off the accelerator and apply it again for the engine to come back to life.

You are alive and not in a wheelchair, thank god for that. Did you buy the car outright or are you making payments against a loan? If you still have payments to make I dont need to tell you whose address I would get the bill redirected to. As someone else said, did your friend even offer to pay you back? I only have a couple of friends with powerful cars that let me get behind the wheel, one is over 400rwkw and with all of us we all know if we "bend it, we spend it". Now, how fast was the car going approximately? If he got cut out of it I assume it had some velocity. I say, if it is actually a write off, to sell what you can and deduct that amount from the purchase and ask your friend to pay the balance in monthly installments. Can I ask how long he has been your friend for?

Well I voted it a GT. Thats my opinion of the cooking variety JDM R31. I have the GTS-R though which is completely different to the normal GTS-X.

Is a standard RB20 ecu even going to work with two afms?

Everything I have read on public forums indicates the ultimate fuel to be the superior product. But for some reason I get a noticeable improvement in fuel economy with optimax. Approx. 1-1.5km/L better. I have seen many people mention the arguments about the optimax being "up to 98ron" and that it has additives to raise the ron level and ultimate is refined to 98 ron. Does anybody have any documentation or links on the web to support these claims?

well if i had $30k to spend i would look at importing an 89 GTR with good overall body condition but with a fried or very tired motor at a cheap price and with the money left over rebuild the motor and fix any worn out wear and tear parts. you are on a skyline forum where a lot of peoples dream car is the GTR so answers will be biased, vice versa on a pro sr20det forum. Good luck with your choice either way, they are both fantastic cars in there own right.

I have read this thread with interest and must say I am now itching to make my maiden track day debut with my car, an R31 GTS-R. As a bonus from work, I was taken to calder park a couple weeks back to drive 8 hot laps in a V8 race car. It was awesome and now I want to take my own car out there. On the reliability and safety side of things ( more HP can wait till i figure out how to steer ) my front brakes are R32 GTR with RB74s and motul fluid. Will I need to upgrade the rears from standard to something like comp 2s? I have height/damper coil overs and a front strut brace but have no idea what the optimum settings for the height and damping should be. Hoping some of you more experienced guys can help me out with this. I do have an oil cooler but will fit an oil temp gauge before I get out there. Anything else I should have in terms of safety or reliability? Now, on the track day itself I read earlier somebody saying an instructor came for a few laps with them. Is there always instructors available for tuition? Do you have to pay for there instruction? Maybe one of you guys can come for a spin with me? Now are there any sites or anything that I can read up on about the rules and procedures etc. Like what all the flags mean and stuff? How are times recorded for each lap? I assume a device is attached to your car or something? Sorry for the long post but I am very interested in doing a track day but want to get some information first. Thanks in advance, Jayson............

Just posting to see if anybody can verify that this is a TO4E turbo with internal gate. It is meant to be the standard turbo on my gts-r but another gts-r i have seen had a different one. Just hoping somebody can confirm what it might be, especially any other GTS-R owners. Also, you can see that my exhaust housing is restrictive and does not allow a split dump. I have been told that it is possible to have a different flange made up that will allow me to run a split dump. Has anybody had a similar exhaust housing modifed to take a split dump? Thanks in advance Jayson...

I would try gapping down the plugs first before the fuel cut defender. I dont have an R33 but an RB20 in an R31 and I have problems with the fuel cut out, it doesnt happen gradually and start stuttering as you describe, its more like driving into a brick wall. The cut out is sudden and abrupt, like you nearly headbutt the steering wheel.

I have heard good stories about traction in Rowville. Never been or heard of centerline but its a lot closer to me than Rowville. And I can understand the comment about a$$holes trying to sell $3,000 coil overs as a solution to a problem. Where i used to take my car to, they put my car up on the hoist and the front strut fell out. They said that it was unfixable and I would need new coil overs in the front and wou;ld be a good idea to do the rears at the same time. I was a little apprehensive to give the go ahead so I took it elsewhere for a second opinion. The problem? Strut top rubber had shit itself, bought a new pair for about $200 and all is fine. Far cry from a new set of coil overs!

Yeah, I had the exact same problem. My R31 coupe came over with no BOV and if I was on boost and just dipped the clutch the revs would drop right down and the warning lights would start flashing and sometimes stall. I installed a bosch plumb back BOV and the problem was cured instantly.

I have now been convinced as to what people have been saying for a long time, Dyno graphs dont mean jack shit. My car is currently in a Bayswater workshop in VIC getting some mods done. The workshop in question has a brand spankers DD 4wd dyno. This workshop together with APS built and developed a twin turbo kit for the LS1 engine. On there own dyno the car made 460rwkw. On the APS dyno it made 510rwkw both times on RACE FUEL. The car recently went interstate for a Holden vs Ford gig and won the dyno comp with a ridiculous 650rwkw on PUMP FUEL. Go figure. The owner of the workshop showed just how easy it is to make a dyno read a lot lot higher than it should. One example was to "manipulate" the dynos temp sensor for a higher reading in shootout mode. The next example, and one I did not know about was that supposedly each car that goes onto the dyno is meant to be calibrated so that when the car is doing 100km/h so is the dyno. He ran the same car twice in a row, one time with the dyno geared correctly and once with the geariing tweaked a tad. The difference was amazing, the outright power wasnt that much higher, but higher nonetheless but the average power was about 20kw greater all the way across. Overlapping the two graphs you would think they were two different cars. So to all the people who write "dynos are just a tuning tool and power graphs should be taken with a grain of salt" I 100% agree with you.

$900.00?? You sure that did not include the clutch as well?? coz thats a ridiculous price. $300.00 sounds about right. I work for a transport company and authorised a clutch replacement yesterday which cost $265.00 plus GST on a truck. And the guy came to our depot and did it. He aslo took the flywheel off and drove away, got it machined and came back. Took him about 3-4 hours. Most workshops will charge between $60-$80 per hour for labour.