FATGTS-R

Touche mate. I ended up searching and found the answers...many times over lol. I think I may go with grinding down the navara shaft though. Coz if I stuff up I can get another one. I also found that the R32 GTS4 has a 21 tooth cog. Cant find out which way the teeth are cut though....

Playing with the sender myself at the moment. Got a navara sender and chopped off the gear as I have a 4.3 diff. Pulled the cog from the 33 box and now not sure what way to go about attaching the 33 cog to the navara shaft? The 33 senders cog was just attached with a circlip and the navara cog was moulded on meaning the shaft from the navara sender is full circle whereas the shaft from the 33 sender was alkf moon on the end. So...I'm left with a cog thats half moon through the centre that needs to be attached to a full circle shaft. The cogs from the 33 are no longer available so dont want to muck it up. How have other people gone about it? My best thought was to get a dremel and small grinding stone and slowly chop it away?

Having no thermostat on the cooler is no big deal. Just tape the core up when on the street.

CTEK chargers are awesome. Use them on all the cars and also work has 24 volt versions to use on the trucks.

Pulled the cap off yesterday just when I beleived the thermostat should be opening and looking into the core it seems to be flowing well? Also looked at the laptop whilst I cracked the throttle and at a lowly 2200rpm the pipe is flat as a pancake which is a worry. Have organised new pipes and thermostat so will start there and see what happens. Hopefully its just a perished rubber hose. If its the same hose as fitted by factory then its 21 years old and could do with a change. Re the metal hose...wouldnt it just crack as the engine moves around?

No,not losing a drop of water. And I researched a little and saw the common signs of water temp rising slowly and then a rapid jump or just fluctuating all over the shop when theres air in the system but I've had my other half drive the car with me in the passenger seat with laptop watching the temp rise and its definatley a linear rise in temp. But I agree re the hoses, I've already organised getting a new set right through along with stat and also a bigger radiator. Hoping problem will go away but really just want to know for knowledge sake whats caused the drama.

Hi guys, This is my situation. My car takes a very very long time to get up to operating temp. It never used to do that. During the colder months it can take over 10 minutes or 10kms to get close to a quarter on the gauge but it didnt overheat. Now that the weather is warmer it is still taking way too long to get to temp but when it does it just keeps climbing. Sitting still in traffic on a warm day it can peg 95 degrees according to ecu. If I sat there on the spot and bring the revs up it would drop it a couple degrees. Today in Vic it was warm again and it got hot. Popped the bonnet to let some heat out when I got home and pulled the throttle to see if I could hear the clutch fan engaged. The fan engaged fine untill I noticed that the lower radiator hose was being sucked flat!! This wasnt at high rpm either, jiust a quick flick of the throttle would have it collapse. Now I assumed that the radiator must be blocked. But the radiator was recoed around 20,000kms ago and also if the radiator was blocked wouldn't it get to operating temp very fast rather than very slow? The other symptom it has is that after shutdown I can hear a "gulping" sound through the system but I have flushed and bled the system many times and never been able to get rid of it? Obviously, I will be replacing the lower hose with a new one but could all the above symptoms be caused by a simple rubber hose thats too old? thanks in advance.

Thanks for all the info guys. Beer baron, the reason I ask is because I have a set of 33 gtst front calipers and rotors for sale and many people are asking for the calipers only. From the info I now have it wont matter too much if I seperate and get stuck with the rotors as I now know I can use them if needed.

Hi guys, On my HR31 I am running R32 GTR calipers and rotors up front. I know there is a small difference in rotor sizing compared to 33 GTST. My question is will it be fine to use the 32gtr calipers with the 33 gtst rotors? If anyone has the actual dimentions for each rotor or a link showing them that would be great. thanks in advance. Jayson..

willing to seperate games?

$325.....

At work we are members of bartercard. Its only going to work if its dollar for dollar i.e SAU$1 = AU$1. The main problem with bartering is people loading the price and making the currency worthless. It happens especially with electrical items. i.e the bartercard auction site where an ipod will sell for $1,000 and a crappy LCD tv for $5,000. In the sau example it would be loaded for premium services like engine tuning as opposed to a spark plug change. Someone would be happy to pay SAU$300 an hour for tuning instead of using cash. How would you get it started though? As in the very first transaction ever, where did the customer get there SAU$ from? In other barter systems its organised by a compnay i.e bartercard and you are given x amount of barter dollars when you join after having paid a fee in cash. They keep a small fee from every transaction in cash.

I have a magic cat installed and I have managed to get a flame or two happening in the past. But with a generic item it would not be possible.

Bump! $375 or best offer.

Item: R33 cast alloy 4 piston brake calipers and rotors Age: 10 years Condition: used. Rotors have just over 29mm on each. Price: $450 ono Location: Western suburbs Victoria Contact: Please contact via PM as I dont come in much. Comments: Happy to trade for some PS3 games.

I'd wire the wastegate shut and take it for another spin...carefully...and see what it does.

If you still have a redtop RB20 in the HR31 then you dont need the resistor pack as it runs low imp injectors standard.

will this ecu by any coincidence have the receive/transmit function on a mainline dyno like the autronic and Motec?

Hi mate, Not line lock related but I would be sheilding those braided lines in the picture. Recently had a braided line get rubbed through which was zipped up against a small hard line just like in your pic.

How does having the inlet cam with a bigger duration affect power curves? Looking at that tomei chart the R31's had a bigger duration inlet cam at 248 vs the 240 for the silvertop. Emissions?

As above. I also have a stainless nismo gtstr manifold factory fitted up to the car in 1987. Came off for hpc coating year or two ago and no signs of any fatigue let alone cracking anywhere. Whatever stainless they used it sure as hell is thick as the manifold weighs a tonne.

I think SK is right on the money about ST.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Go back over the install and double check ALL your inlet plumbing. The wrx sound is a common sympton when theres an inlet tract leak. And considering you just had all the inlet off it would be the first place to look.

Yeah Werribee is definately an obsure location. Its also a decently sized dealership as I assume FTG is also but you wouldnt think that would matter as I doubt they are going to hold 50 cars at a time like a Tiida......or are they? Maybe Nissan themselves decided on a max of two dealers in VIC so only two workshops had to be trained/setup to service the cars and maybe had the dealerships bid on the rights to sell them? Who gives a shit anyways as I cant afford it and for those lucky enough who can I'm sure an extra 30 minutes travel isnt going to change there mind in buying one.

I've also done the V8 race experience and as mentioned power levels are stock. But car is stripped,caged and wears slicks. It was wet the day I went and did it so had to run on wets lol. The instructors are keen for you to have a great time and actually encourage you to get up the car. 8 laps goes way to fast like was said. First lap or two you are getting used to the car and start to get some speed up for the next two laps and then a slower car in front holds you up for two laps. Then you've got 2 laps left and as soon as you blink the bloke is pointing into the pits. It was my first time on a racetrack and when I pulled in the front brakes were on fire haha and I had a grin on my face all day from the excitement. Have fun!!