FATGTS-R

If it means anything, my friend has a ridiculously modified holden rodeo. In street trim the exhaust system is obviously not going to be a restictive set up. But for calder a pipe straight out the side nets about 10-15 kw, but this is with altering the mapping as well.

Jeez Chris32, 0.9BAR @ 4500-4800rpm from a 2510 dont sound right does it? For comparison, I have an internal gated TO4E on my rb20 and it makes 0.6-0.7BAR @ 3700-4000rpm. But in saying that you wouldnt think that two different businesses would tell a porky about what turbo you had would you? I dont know myself, but somebody might know what could cause a turbo that is meant to have great responce to not spool untill that high up the revs. And on the GT RS, info I have gathered says that it is between the 2530 and 2540. Meant to have the responce of the 2530 with the top end flow capability of the 2540. Sounds like the ideal turbo for an RB20 if you ask me.

Ok, there is two of those rules I am not sure of: 1. The open end wheel studs. Why are these required? 2. No slicks on the rear and radials on the front. Why is this unsafe?

BBQ wrote: "But..... you have to weigh up the difference, When a N/A car goes full noise the pistons, rods and crank don’t move any where as fast, as what a Turbo car does, so naturally theirs going to be more wear on a Turbo car then N/A car." Now that my friend is crap! Dont confuse road speed with engine speed. And the stroke of a motor will determine the piston speed at a given rpm, not whether it has a turbo or not. RB20DET ( short stroke ) vs FORD 4L ( long stroke ) I dont know the exact specs, but for arguments sake lets say the Ford motors stroke is double that of the RB20, say 50mm and 100mm. If both engines are on 1 RPM- revolutions per minute, the RB20 piston has to travel 50mm up the bore and then 50mm down in a minute whereas the 4L has to travel 100mm up and 100mm down, it has to travel twice the distance in the same time. so it has to move TWICE AS FAST as the rb20 piston for one revolution. People say turbo engines dont last as long as an NA, but its horses for courses. NA and turbo engines are engineered to stay as they left the factory. You would be very very lucky if 1 out of 10 NA engines were modified away from factory specs. But with turbo engines you would be lucky if 1 out of ten was NOT modified from factory specs. Ever heard the saying " guns dont kill, people with guns kill" well it applies here to, "turbo engines dont die early, people who incorrectly modify them kill them early"

when you say they dont light up, do you mean the lights on the keypad dont light up for those numbers or the buttons are f@cked and dont work when you press them? Also, what state are you in?

yeah, as above. How have you pin pointed the turbo to be blown?

yep, I have GTR calipers and they are alloy.

the difference is that a GTS4 is four wheel drive. The gtst is rear wheel drive only. Cant give you specs sorry, try a search.

ask a workshop with a new 4wd dyno what they paid for it and you wont think the price is high afterall. Sure, some of them can do it cheaper. But they are giving you a bargain basement price so you book it in. They wont go into much detail with the tuning and you will end up going back spending more money because: " the cold start is shocking " doesnt idle properley " " bad economy " etc etc. Understand these places are quoting based on how many dyno hours they estimate it to take. The average price is approx. $100-$120 per hour from memory. A cheap price sometimes means a cheap tune. The factory engineers spend hundreds if not thousands of man hours getting the factory ecu to run as it does with the perfect cold start etc etc. Dont kid yourself into thinking that somebody is going to come close to emulating this in a couple of hours. oh, and if you look around this forum, in VIC, ICE has a excellent reputation and has obviously tuned a lot of power FCs on R33s. Wont be paying them to learn how to tune it. You would get a very good " tuning progress per dyno hour " ratio as there would be less head scratching.

well a photo will tell you if its the stock dump. But if it aint you still wont know if its 3 inch or not. Get a pair of vernier calipers and measure it yourself.

well i have a R31 with HICAS and it works even when stationary, dont know about later models though. Just looking at it and turning the wheel you would think it aint moving but it is. As stated above, with normal day to day driving you would not know it is there. But when I am driving around a long sweeping bend at speed it starts to wriggle the arse end about which feels very hairy. I also plan to remove it. When you get the car, find a roundabout and start driving around it, slowly increasing your speed. At the start you feel in control of the car but as you get faster you feel the hicas come into play and try to work against you.

couldnt really tell you what HP or torque it would be needed if in fact it is ever needed. The only time I have seen a manual box cooler and diff cooler has been on a no expense spared dedicated circuit or strip car. In other words, never on a street car.

You can get them for manuals too but I would assume it would be overkill. You only ever see a manual box oil cooler on a BIG HP engine. As well as diff oil coolers. On a side note, R31 Rocket and SKY031 said they had cheap ones but commented that they were crap. I would like to know how you came to the conclusion they were not suitable? If the cooler has a good stream of airflow and the trans fluid temp drops then you would think it is doing its job. What signs alerted you that it was an inferior product? Besides that it probably didnt include a thermostat. Or is that the problem? That on short trips the trans fluid was too COLD?

This is a long shot and you probably have already checked, but have you looked to see if your power steering fluid is low? I know the hicas light appears when this is low. And the noise might just be things groaning because it is low on fluid.

Just out of curiosity, how do you guys know it is not a genuine Trust cooler?

In regards to the 02 sensor. I have no o2 sensor connected and never have, and I have never got any sign of compressor surge. And I have a TO4E on a RB20. Did the previous owner have any modifications done to his head?

Somebody will correct me if I am wrong and for you guys sake I hope I am but I thought a screeching type sound from the turbo was a sign of excessive shaft play. The screech is the compressor wheel hitting the housing or something like that.

I Have R32 GTR brakes on the front of my R31 with new RB74 pads, new motul brake fluid and braided lines. I have no complaints at all and the braking is magnificent, I feel very confident and safe with these brakes. But that is in a car that is a bit lighter than a GTR. I didnt know the calipers were any stronger but was told they are alloy and the GTS-Ts are not. But I have never been on a track so cant comment how they would hold up. The place that did the brakes ( race brakes in VIC ) did tell me that the RB74 pads were probably not suitable for a serious track day but on the street would be perfect. Beware if you have white rims with the RB74s though, as they will turn them black very fast, like every day.

Very talented man indeed. On a side note is this the car that I saw stripped outside a certain panel shop for a few weeks on the same road where I work? ( western suburbs> somerville> duty ) The brackets will make sense if its you.

If it is a highflow then yes get it fixed. If it aint a highflow and you only plan on running a stock turbo anyway then get it fixed as well. The cost to replace seals will be the same price as another second hand one that might do its seals in another month or so anyway.

hmmm.. if it was only happening when you backed off i would say its just your bov being too tight. But if it happens when you are on the gas at 100km/h ( prolly tallgear = high load ) then as others have said I think you are experiencing compressor surge. When it happens are you noticing your boost gauge thrashing about all over the place? What was exactly done to your turbo to make it a " highflow"?

LOL, from experience I can say that when the build takes 2 months or so its usually because of " nah mate, still waiting on tha rods " , " the morons sent the wrong pistons " ," just waiting for the head to get back" " the guy with your block wont return my calls" etc etc etc.

Sorry Ash You misunderstood me. I knew it was gonna be done on the dyno, I just wanted to know how many dyno kays it would travel to "tune it up". @ benjiman74: are you refering to Ben from racepace as the "he" in your post?

Yes Ash, I know what the manufacturers do. I also read somewhere that sometimes the engines are taken to redline to ensure everything is ok. But you said : "do u guys know how long a motor from Holden is "run in" for instance??" That is a misleading comment in the sense that a new car owner is not told there engine is ready for "normal" use. You are told you have to run it in and it is in the owners manual explaining the manufacturers recommendations on how they want you to do it. A perfect example I would love to see is the GEN 3 engine. One driven hard from the outset and one ran in on the dyno as per Holdens recomendations. And then see which one has the better oil consumption. I dont agree that a performance engine needs a long drawn out run in process but I also dont agree that it can be taken to the limit from the get go. Whistla wrote: by the time the car has been tuned up itll be ready to go without any "running in" Can you ask your builder approx. how many ks will it take for it to be "tuned up"

Speaking to somebody yesterday about running in engines and was told similar to what R31nismoid and whistla said. "Purpose built performance engines actually dont need as much running in as a mass produced ( falcon,commo) engine. Mass produced engines have less tension in the rings and therefore need a longer run in period to bed them properley. Whereas a performance engine will generally have a higher ring tension and bed a lot easier and faster. Car manufacturers have low tension rings as it creates less friction = less wear = better fuel economy." But nonetheless rings still need to bed, no matter what engine they are in.