FATGTS-R

Actually speaking to a guy at work the other day who plans to buy a NSX when the coin count allows. He loves them. He says that all NSX engines are balanced/blueprinted and all hand built from factory. He says they also all have titanium rods and forged pistons I think. He isnt one to make up crap so is this true?

Would I be correct in saying that you would have to use these as a tuning tool only if you have a standard ecu? What I mean by that is that you would have to have two o2 sensors? The standard one to do its thing with the ecu and the wideband one just to view your air/fuel ratio? Because a wideband sensor will not work with a standard ecu. Well it dont work with mine anyway, I run without a o2 sensor fitted at all.

Hey Guys, Just wondering if anybody knows of a link to a site with info on a launch control system for drag racing. The car in question already has a Wolf 3d fitted and has a manual transmission. So hopefully it would still function fine on its own or even in unison with the wolf. I had a quick look on the web but couldnt find anything. I know I remember seeing something written about some type of stand alone launch control system but cant find it anywhere. Forgot the exact method of how it worked but you could hold the pedal flat to the floor and it would stay at your pre set launch rpm. Also said something about giving the ability to change gears without lifting off the pedal. Anybody seen what I am talking about or know of something similar?

I dont understand why some guys are upset at the add saying nobody will drive it on the dirt anyway. How many 4wd ads do you see with them climbing mountains, climbing Mars, showing off the angle they can climb etc etc. And then they end up being driven by everday Mums and dads to drop the kids at school and do the shopping with fuel economy 0f 20l/100kms and above. ( last time i checked Nissan would not disclose the patrols fuel economy, must be way high. 4wds and commercial vehicles are exempt form having to tell you there fuel economy.) I would love to know out of ten, how many 4wds that are sold actually hit the dirt.

I would assume the best way to get advice on running in your particular engine is to ask the person who actually built it! I am not versed in this subject but was told it is something to do with how "loose" it has been built. I would assume that is referring to clearances, so the builder would know best. But as mentioned above by others, varying load, no high rpm "free revving", no prolonged idling is a good guideline I guess. And obviously using non synthetic oils to begin with. Not too sure about pulling up hills in tall gears though, might be too much load? If it was my engine, for peace of mind I would have it done on a dyno. For the amount spent on an engine rebuild a few hundred bucks of dyno time is pittence. @ R32-GTSTT: I would reccomend using the standard ecu for the run in process.

I use both, optimax and BP ultimate. I have read about the optimax not being as good as its cracked up to be but for some reason I get noticably better fuel consumption on optimax. And yes, now that you mention it I do notice a weird smell from the exhaust with the Shell brew.

Someone give this guy a VIN. If anyone of you are worried just change the last two digits or something like that.

I also never had a crash on my P's, but I also never owned a high powered car on my P's. But to be truthful I had a couple close calls that were all from stupidity. On a side note there is a driving rule that I have much debate over with friends: A freeway that has three lanes. One car in the far left and one in the far right lanes travelling at the same speed and level with each other. Both cars simultaneously indicate to move into the centre lane and collide with eachother. Who is at fault? I think the driver in the left lane is at fault because he is merging towards his driver side and has a better view. And isnt the general rule to always give way to the right? Whereas some people have told me that both drivers are at fault. I really am not sure.

I would assume the auto diff is LSD, but dont rely on that. Fuel consumption I imagine will increase on the highway at a minimum. As you will be at a higher rpm to sit on 100km/h than with the 4.11. I have a 4.33 in my R31 and it sits just under 3,000rpm to do 100km/h. Also understand that your speedo calibration will end up being incorrect. The speedo reading will be higher than your actual road speed. But if you have aftermarket rims that have a overall bigger diameter than the stock rims they might cancel each other out and the speedo might be very close. Just get it checked next time you are on a dyno.

In reference to the above quote the GTS-Rs RB20det-R actually had a TO4E, not TO3. Also different cams and a gorgeous NISMO stainless tubular exhaust manifold. And about the 280hp thing, its a bit hard to say if its true. When I put mine on the dyno it was stock standard and delivered 180hp @ wheels which would assume the 215hp @ fly is correct.... BUT mine was dynoed at 8psi and when they left the factory they pushed approx. 14psi. Would the extra 6psi from the TO4 push the flywheel power to the 280hp region?, I am the wrong person to ask. Back on topic though, I understand that the results from the leak down test should be fairly close across all cylinders but what percentage reflects an engine in bad condition? i.e If the average leakage across all 6 cylinders is 50% with no more than a 2% fluctuation then fair enough there is a small variance across the block which is good but the leakage is 50% which i assume is very very bad. I need to know what leakage percentage should start the alarm beels ringing?

Ok, I understand a leak down test is meant to be superior to a compression test in assessing an engines health. I might be installing a/market ecu on my engine based on results from a leak down test. From memory the results are stipulated as a percentage of leakage per cylinder, with the lower percentage the better? Can somebody please tell me what percentages I should be looking at to decide whether I go ahead with the ecu or not? e.g. 10% = great health, 20% = OK condition, 30% = engine will die very soon. etc etc etc. BTW, engine in question is an RB20DET-R. Thanks in advance guys, Jayson.......

I was told to stay away from heat wrapping because although it reduces the heat being transfered out from the metal it also keeps the heat trapped underneath it. Without wrapping, your pipes etc would cool down after shutdown in lets say 30 minutes, but with the wrapping on they would stay warm for a lot lot longer supposedly accelerating the deterioration of your metal. On the intercooler topic, I was told to use uncoated alloy piping from turbo to cooler as alloy is a good disipater of heat and then use HPC coated piping from cooler to manifold as it would stop heat penetrating the coooled air inside the pipe. Sounds feasible in theory?

did you ask why holes pointing to the bonnet were illegal? All i have ever heard about carbon bonnets is that they were illegal full stop. From what I was told it is something to do with them not being safe in an accident. I was told that if you wanted to have a carbon bonnet you would need to take it to the required place that could test it and see if it is safe to use. But that would mean smashing a few of them in a simulation, which would cost ridiculous money, hence why nobody would do it.

Yep, you are correct USRB, It is an airflow cut, not boost cut technically. Sydneykid has corrected my terminology on this many times, lol. Thats why you would hit your " boost cut " earlier on a cold day, with full load of passengers, with a bigger turbo, etc etc. The ecu does not go into this mode from a manifold pressure signal, it will perform this " cut " or " overboost protection " as a direct result from signals sent from the air flow meter.

i have been a passenger in a GTR many times and been let drive one, although off boost and very slow with the owners hand on the handbrake, LOL. So the person I would most like to meet is the person who lets me drive their GTR and wring its friggin neck. Any takers?

@ serious-seven. When you say INK do you mean printing supplies? If so, then that is the one. BTW, car is from VIC.

I agree with the person above who said if you are going to try and sell through a forum to make sure you have pics. Its all the damn picture collectors who have gigabyte upon gigabyte of car pics on there pc who are asking for them. They have no interest in buying, they just want to add another pic to there collection. I say, if they ask you to e-mail them a pic, ask them to e-mail you a bank balance first. lol And on that note, for the people who actually come to view the car ask them to bring proof of available funds or dont bother turning up.

sweet! That would have been awesome to see. You see any R31 GTS-Rs?

from what I have seen and read the older type of blowers on the old V8s and stuff, the roots and screw type are pretty inefficient. But the the more modern centrifigal type ( vortech ) are a lot lot better in design. Very similar to a turbo in fact. They drain a lot less from the crank to operate as well. As an example my friend supercharged his 3.2l V6 rodeo. When stock it had 76rwkw. They strapped a vortech V1-s trim @ 10psi to it. It hit 200rwkw at 6500rpm and the curve was still climbing hard but they backed off because the engine would have let go if revved any harder. This gave him incentive to do a full engine rebuild. He upgraded to the T-Trim and its now making 385rwkw @ 25psi and they havent sorted out a few little gremlins that are keeping it from 400. The drivers and the cars maiden 400m pass yielded an 11.9 sec pass on slicks that had not been warmed up properley.

where I work we manufacture plastisol, which is printing ink for garments, the type that sits on top of the garment that peels off eventually. And we dont give out whats inside it either. We only let on what the law requires us to. Which is pretty much what could be possibly harmful. I had to sign a huge declaration full of legal mumbo jumbo that I would not disclose what I know about this product now or in the future or basically they will sue my ass off. Companies dont tell people whats inside for a reason, they wont want every joe blow to go and start copying there product when they have spent thousands, even millions doing all the r and d to get it right.

shouldnt we be able to obtain a MSDS ( materials safety data sheet ) from people that sell this product? I know it wont tell us the ingredients to the full extent but it will an idea of any harmful chemicals in it.

If you payed by credit card you are 100% fine. Beleive it or not but you can dispute a credit card payment up to 12 months later. They will reverse the payment straight away and the funds will be removed from his account. The credit card company will make the person who received the money prove the transaction is not fraudlulent to get there money back, not make you prove it to get your money. They would rather look after you as you are there customer.

well in a R31 skyline the rear wheels will turn when stationary. dont know bout the newer models though.

Great read and great info. I agree also to make this thread sticky. I guess most people ( myself included ) take this forum for granted without ever thinking that there are people behind it who put in a lot of there own time and effort to keep it up and running as smoothly as possible. I think its awesome that whenever i encounter a problem with my car or something related that I can just come on here and post about it or search and find an answer. I guarantee these forums have saved its members as a whole literally thousands of dollars. From my own perspective it feels a lot more reassuring walking into a workshop and actually having a clue as to what i want them to do or what my problem is. I have walked out of workshops after I have figured out I actually have more idea than them! And its all attributed to these forums ( and one other, SKY-031 ). Without the forums behind me I would be walking into these places with a blindfold on and my pants around my ankles, and they would know it and take me to the cleaners, well some of them anyway. In saying that I know to take everything I read on here and anywhere on the net with a grain of salt but if you hang around long enough it gets easier and easier to wade through all the shit. So thank you to all the people who have and still are keeping this place up and running. Your time and effort is greatly appreciated. Regards Jayson.....

From what i understand the F1 cars ability to rev to insane engine speeds is attributed to a very very short stroke, somewhere in the region of 30mm lower than the bore size i read somewhere. It said that because of this bore/stroke ratio the cars have very little torque and that an F1 car would struggle to tow another F1 car behind it. Do you reckon that could be true? I know that engines with lower stroke than bore measurements have a better ability to rev but suffer in torque ( RB20 ) compared to engines with equal ( RB30 ) or greater ( old V8s ) stroke measurements but its hard to picture a F1 not being able to tow another behind it. Has a decommisioned F1 car ever ran a quarter mile pass? I would be interested to know what time they would run.