FATGTS-R

100% there is a white 260 autech that is registered in Melbourne. I saw it late last year or early this year parked in the CBD of Melbourne as I was crawling through the peak hour traffic.

Steve sst. You said that there is a wolf plug in for the R31 onwards. When you say R31 are you meaning the import red top rb20det engines or the australian spec rb30 models or both?

With the fuel adjuster when they say " 128 Load points " are they meaning just rpm tuning points? Because I thought the safcs had no reference to load at all. Meaning when an adjustment is made its the same setting at all throttle positions.

I was in the same position many years ago when I first got my license. My solution was not to buy the car I wanted and instead I bought an AUS delivered POS untill the price was going to be cheaper for me. Try get a few quotes with your parents as the main driver and you listed as a secondary or third driver. Technically they should base the quote on the worst risk driver ( you ) but just try and see what happens. Use the same company as your parents as they might give a decent price because of that. ( I doubt it though ) Lastly ask there definition of the secondary driver, meaning if your the second driver on the contract but in reality your the mian driver how do they define this. Basically if you smash it how are they going to find out you are the main driver and not the secondary. Have you bought the car yet? If not try ( i know its hard ) and resist temptation and buy a shitter untill the prices of cover aren't ridiculous. Hey, you might even get a bit of experience behind the wheel before you get that dream car.

As it suggests, I am after a unichip control unit. Prefer in VIC.

The R31. Fuel economy is OK. between 8 and 12l per 100/km on average stop start driving. The RB30E engine is tough as nails. Plenty have hit 300,000ks and still going strong. Many have also strapped turbos to the n/a motor with over 200,000ks and they still survive. The downside is they are a dated design if you wanted a more modern look.

The N1 and Group A turbos had steel wheels.

Zensoku: From what you posted BOV mounting position No.1 is the culprit but your explanation of the reason it happens makes more sense in saying that position number 1 is actually ideal. Or is that what you meant?

"i just bought a used r32 gtst single turbo i have a 3230 standard on it and i want to get a good turbo with good bost but i want to imporve the acceleration but not too much that it rips the steering wheel from my hands would anyone know of any?????? life is short so are treds" ummm... Sorry dude, you must of got mixed up between the " warming up " thread in the MAINTENANCE section and the " what turbo should I buy" thread you were thinking of making in the GENERAL or FORCED INDUCTION section. Easy mistake, I do it all the time.

VIC plates "TURBO" are on a battered prelude. Well were last year. And I saw UNMPLD or similar ( unemployed ) last night on a wrx.

So whats the benefit of a tube frame front end? I would assume weight reduction but is there anything else?

Great tip on the SR and RO ratings dude. I can just see everybody leaving there keyboard and running out to the garage to check there JASMA plate!

Same here, more info to jaggi(at)allvic.com.au. Got any pics? Whats the rec. retail on it?

Geez over 310 at the wheels. You must be wrapped. My friend just got back his supercharged Holden rodeo last night with a street tune of 310 to get a feel for it. ( It made near on 400 on the dyno ). He let me drive it and its amazing to have that much power under your foot. Makes you respect what your sitting in a lot too as it could obviously be all over very quickly. Are you planning to take it to the strip?

ROY wrote: That doesnt sound right, i think there is another problem somewhere, if its a T04E it should be making more power then that, that is provided you have an intercooler and and exhaust on the car??? I think Clint 32 had a similar setup on his RB20 and was making 240rwkws (approx) with the usual support systems." Sorry, I should clarify. The turbo is only on 0.6BAR at the moment and those figures are just my estimation of what it will produce. And yes I have all the usual support systems. Also dont forget mine is an internal wastegate TO4E which would I assume make less power than an external gated model.

notice your from Melb. Have you seen the white GTS-T ( with GTR badges ) with the two blue stripes getting around? Personally I actually dislike it a lot.

yup, your clutch is slipping. You will notice there is no freeplay at all on the pedal. Assuming there is enough meat left on it and it has not been adjusted a few times before your local mechanic should adjust it for you free of charge. If they dont, find a new mechanic as it takes less than five minutes.

Damn this thread! LOL I thought I had it nutted that I wanted a 2530 but I am very impressed with the 2510 making 190 with 0.9BAR. I have a RB20 with internal gate TO4E and its obviously a little non street friendly. I want to have 200-220rwkw with a max of 1.0-1.2BAR but with decent average power. My TO4E would get close to 200rwkw @ 1.0-1.2BAR but it would be asleep untill over 5,000rpm.

I can vouch for the fleet comment as I just went and had a look and there is over 100 liters of roil gold around in 20 L drums. P.S. we still have a few bottles of the fc glide we were given to try. Are you reccomending we turf it? Also got a few litres of the auto tranny stuff. there is also 2 drums of " lower engine additive " or something like that as well. Are you saying that the roil " gold " now replaces all the previous individual products as a one product for all? In relation to the performance of the product its hard to say if it made any improvements as it was used from basically all the trucks beginning of life. What I can say is we have 11 trucks, a few over 200,000ks and I swear not one has suffered from a mechanical breakdown. One truck has a very bad crunch in second gear but is supposedly a common fault with that particular model as they have an update replacement for it. But I will not say it is because of the roil treatment as all the trucks are ISUZU which have an impeccable and unmatched reliability record and have sales figures well beyond there nearest competitor.

ok thats good to know. Do you know how well it idles? for an a/m ecu anyway? This particular car will be daily driven. Can somebody tell me the name of the member from wa that does all the wolf installs over there? Been told he knows the product very well. As an aside I mentioned he could get autronic for a decent price. He can get it for $2500 fitted and tuned on a Holden rodeo 97 model. ( yes you read it right, rodeo ) Anyone from VIC whos been into Dynomotive will know the car.

Asking this question for a friend as he has a wolf ecu installed in his car and during tuning he has found out his 650cc injectors are out of puff. He is upgrading to 1000cc injectors and was told the wolf might struggle to cope with such big injectors and that only motec or autronic can handle this. Something to do with driving the injectors at low rpms and idle saying only the big two can open and close them fast enough. Or some shit like that which I dont understand properley anyway. Any fact to this comment? He needs to know fast as he can get an autronic fitted and tuned for a good price but dont want to spend the $$$ if the wolf will suffice.

how many tuning points exactly?

I was never sure bout this one but am i correct in saying that if you had an internal gated turbo and had a split dump pipe, but the wastegate side just went to atmo instead of plumbing back in further down then thats classed as a screamer pipe?

Ash (R31nismoid) from this forum has just mounted a GT30 onto a low mount GTS-R manifold and modified it to accomadate an external wastegate. Although his was installed on an R31 I do know he also had a tight fit. He might be able to give a few hints/ pointers.

This thread is interesting to me as I fill with optimax as there is a shell 10 doors down from my house, however I do occasionally use the bp stuff if I am shopping or whatever as there is no shell there. To be honest my car needs a damn good tune anyway but I definately get better economy from the optimax. A couple of you guys mentioned optimax as being 92 ron fuel to begin with and then modified somehow to acheive the 98 RON whereas bp and Mobil are refined at 98 RON from the beginning. Can one of you please supply me or post here if you wish your reference for this information. Because if the Shell issue is a concrete fact I wont touch it again.