FATGTS-R

I urgently need an o2 sensor. Part number: 22690-20P01 I beleive it will need to come from Japan. I am in VIC but will pay the postage if discount makes it cost effective.

If you want quick outta the blocks the GTi-R supposedly runs in the mid thirteen second bracket straight out of the factory. Thats GTR fast.

Yeah but if that happened I would have no compression. It still starts and sounds fine.

Head gasket has been at the back of my mind from the start but just trying not to think its that. It was dark last night, I will check today when I get home from work. An old car I used to own blew the head gasket and it made the oil level rise coz water got in there. My oil level is low though. Or can you blow it without the sump getting contaminated?

I am thinking turbo seal as well. Blow by would cause a litre of oil on the driveway though.

I am pretty sure its only oil cooled. And it wasnt dead cold when started either. So thats a bad thing.

dont want to sound dumb but that would mean turbo rebuild right? If thats the prob I would be glad, better than the engine.

I work just down the road from on duty panels and have seen many a nice paint job emerge from there. I would make a decision fast coz they seem to be very busy as I see them try to jigsaw puzzle all the cars in every night. They are in Sunshine. P.S. ylwgtr2: Is that your car with the black tail lights? Sweet ride.

I noticed a huge puddle of oil last night under the car. Checked the stick and its on the low level. Popped the hood and I can see oil spray under the bonnet. Seems like its coming from the BOV ( plumb back ) and the turbo has a lot of oil over it. But the speed of the leak seems to be faster than a spray could ever cause. Started it up and cant see exactly where its coming from. Gave it a few revs and noticed the exhaust smelled very strong. There is no clouds of smoke but it looked like an oil/water mix had sprayed out the exhaust. Oil coming out the zorst, this cant be good can it? What have I broke?

Cant help you with the idle control but if you have a power fc the wide band sensor should be able to work with it. The wide band is better than the factory narrow band as it is a lot more accurate for tuning purposes. I assume you got the car with the fc already fitted.

I want to know this as well as my car has a tomei a/f gauge as well and my o2 sensor is also disconnected. MATIXX: The sensor you have pictured is not factory and is IMO a wide band sensor, like mine with the four wires. I can not use mine I believe as a wide band cant be used with a factory ecu from what a few tuners have told me.

I understand I can get one to fit the hole but I was told they are all calibrated differently which will have adverse affects if I have the wrong one. Is this correct? I dont just wanna get anything that fits in, I want to know beforehand that it will work sufficiently.

So whats the difference between a LSD and a locker? Not locker as in a spool or welded being locked 100% of the time but as in a detroit style locker? The previous owner said it had a detroit style locker diff. Its not locked full time as doing a full lock u turn there is no wheel skip at all. How do I tell if its a locker style or just a normal mech LSD? One thing that does happen is sometimes on take off, whether driving normal or trying to launch is that the rear wheels will " chatter ". Like when a wheel skips but its both of them and I am trying to drive straight. Someone told me its the diff locking/unlocking repeatably. I am not so sure though. As I have 265 rubber and I reckon its just struggling to spin up. Anybody know the workings of a detroit locker?

My car currently runs with no o2 sensor connected as the one on there is a wide band sensor that was used with a FCON that was on my car but removed by previous owner. If I connect it the car runs like a dog. My car is rare and old and finding parts is sometimes a challenge. I want to get the ecu chipped and was told it wont work with the wide band sensor. I have the nissan part number but nissan AUS dont stock it. What are my other options of obtaining one and more importantly is there some sort of universal o2 sensor I can buy that will do the same job? I was told I need the original one as its values are set accordingly for my car but it looks like that is not an option. I contacted petroject but they cant help. Are there any universal sensors that will work for me? I am itching to get my car tuned.

Just want to touch on the topic again of car drivers etc being the cause of bike crashes. I myself have shit bricks when changing lanes and from nowhere it seems like the bike has just appeared beside me. Please be careful dude. A workmate who had been a rider since he could walk saved his arse off for his dream bike, R6. His parents would only let him get it if he got all brand new and top quality safety gear to go with it. He finally got it and two weeks later we were looking at him in the hospital. A courier van driver took him out. No feeling in right arm or left leg. Was in wheel chair for over a year. He is ok now albeit for a limp as one leg is now shorter than the other. The doctors said the safety gear saved him from even more serious injury. I cringe when I see guys on high powered bikes up on one wheel with shorts, runners and a t-shirt.

On the way back it showed I was at 91km/h with speedo at 100. I accelerated to 109 and I was passing everyone. I am sure it is out.

How do I check master/slave cylinder operation? The fluid level is fine and had the system flushed 3 weeks ago.

Hi guys, I will start by saying that my clutch is presumably a twin plate. The seller assured me it was and I took his word. It rattles like hell when depressed. I have not been near a confirmed twin plate equipped car to compare sounds to know if I have a twin or if the rattle is something else. Anyway I am having a few probs and would like opinions on whether they are clutch or box related or even both. 1. When I first had the car -7 months ago occasionally when I was slowing up to a stop and dipped the clutch it didnt actually disengage. It would start lurching forward about to stall and I had to literally use force to yank it into neutral. It was as if I had not pressed the pedal. Interestingly it hasnt happened for a long while. 2. In the last two weeks I have had a hard time putting the box into first gear. It sometimes needs a bit of force to go in. I dont hear a clash of metal just a big click sorta sound. But it is intermittent. Sometimes it is ok. 3. The pedal has excessive freeplay. Say about 30 - 50mm. 4. This ones hard to explain a bit. When the pedal is all the way up and I press it down its say 30mm freeplay to the point where I can feel the resistance it will sometimes stick there and the clutch pedal will only have say 1-2mm of play but will pop up again soon as I touch it or lift it up with my foot. I have not noticed any slippage but dont know a sure fire procedure to find out. My neighbour said to chock the front wheels against a gutter, put it in fifth and slowly let the clutch out. If it dont stall the clutch is on the way out. Does this sound right? Lastly, with the excessive freeplay, can it be adjusted to reduce the play and could it be the cause of my probs. I sincerely apoligise for the lenghty post but know if I go to a mechanic they will more than likely try to slug me for a new clutch no matter what. Would rather know what I am talking about before I go in there if in deed I need to at all. Thanks guys Jayson.

Ash, Whats the advantage of 2 piece rotors?

I know the other stuff would be nice ( R31 house bonnet, oohh yeah ) but I am sure you will do the sensible thing and get the brakes done.

My car always had a prob with idling at about 1100rpm. Tried everything, that screw at the rear of plenum was all the way in. Got a new exhaust fitted and it still idled high. I reset the ecu about a week ago and in that time the idle has come down to 800rpm. I have not noticed any other difference to the running of the car. Whether its a coincidence or not I dont know but before the reset noboby could get it to idle under 1100rpm and now its idling fine. Who knows?

" FATGTS_R obviously doesnt know how much........" Dude, I am the operations manager for a transport company and freight stuff to NSW on a daily basis. I am aware there are cheaper options, I could get rims there for a third of the price. Just saying the cheaper options are not the safest.

Thats insane Ash. Cant wait to see it. GO THE GTS-Rs!

My mate has an SS commo and a few years back his GF ripped half the front spoiler off parking up to the kerb at a 7-11 store. He didn't have the cash to fix it so a mate gave him a car bra he had lying around to hold it up. This was in winter and when he finally took it off not long later to fix the bar it had rubbed a line on the bonnet nearly down to bare metal. It was a combination of wet weather and grit, dirt whatever and engine vibration making the car bra a big piece of sandpaper. The car bra was in the guys shed and I dont know if he cleaned it first so it prolly had a fair bit of crap in it already. Anyway, i'll never use one.

Using a furniture removalist is the most expensive way but beleive it or not one of the safest because your goods will only be handled twice, once when loaded and once when unloaded. Couriers on the other hand they get tossed around everywhere getting sorted and what not who knows how many times but are a lot cheaper. The minimum charge from Sydney to Melb. for upto 1 cubic metre is $150 - $200.