FATGTS-R

Mate just got one given to him as Wolf have come on board to sponsor his car. Tuners first impressions was that it was a fantastic piece of gear. Hes got 1700cc bosch indys and it purrs like a kitten at idle. Dual mapping at the flick of a switch is a cool feature as well (race fuel/street fuel etc)

Should be going up this time around. Yes,its a traditional Holden/Ford event but a GTR won the 6 cylinder class last year beating my best mate by 10hp. He should be ready within a month to try and win his class on the dyno. In of all things a Holden(Isuzu) rodeo.

Go to www.r31skylineclub.com forums and ask and the answers will come promptly. I would think that there not the same as I doubt the VL and R31 are identicaly the same width although I could be wrong. The R31s and VLs also had different gearing with the VL from memory having 3.45 and the R31 having 3.7 for the manual and 3.89ish for auto. The R31's are all disk brakes as well, none were released with drums.

Nice pics. Got any more of the R31?

My opinion is that because they have such a big reputation that a lot of them get purchased. And with all of these purchases there is always going to be some failures whether it be due to manufacturing error, transport damage or installation procedure. People only highlight the bad experiences as thats our nature. I bet on this forum alone that for every person that has had a failure with one that mentioned it there is 50 others that have had no trouble at all. In saying that, my mate has a potent engine(well over 1,000bhp) and has killed a few of them. One died after less than 1,000km of use. But he did run very very high fuel pressure. He took it as a given that they could fail and at one stage only required two of them to give him the fuel he required but had four wired up to allow for failure and still have the fuel up there. When he installed decent fuel filters before the pumps the failure rate diminished but didnt disappear. He gave up on that idea and now has a single big red one in there capable of feeding his requirements. Forget the brand..magnaflow/magnafuel or something.

Well the Rodeo wont be making it along. Fiddling around during tuning, somewhere somehow a pressure line was missed/wrong way round and it spiked and nudged out a headgasket. Was looking good too as it was at 560rwkw at 4200rpm and they hadnt even hooked the bottle up yet. Good luck to all the SAU guys entering.

I would say the bearing has grabbed and as a result spat the rod. Possibly due to a dead/dying oil pump.

No, the late 90s rodeos came with quadcam 3.2 or 3.5l Isuzu engines. Engine went in this evening. They still have to hook everything up, finish wiring the ecu and tune.......and kill any gremlins. All by at the latest midnight tomorrow so he can drive up to NSW. Really hope it gets ready in time as this machine is fantastic. No credit card and Nengun catalogue for this thing, everything has been obviously custom as nobody else has played with this engine to that magnitude.

Mate has his car in the mechanics and they are working frantically to have it ready in time to tow up from melbourne. He wants to take the outright dyno crown just to annoy people lol. He has a holden/Isuzu rodeo V6 and if it all gets together in two days he might just win. He got an invite for winning the Melbourne round earlier in the year making from memory around 600rwkw. Since then there has been some major hardware changes that will support enough power to break the record unless the engine breaks first haha. He has 48 hours to wire in a new ecu, drop engine in and tune. Odds are against him to get there but if he does it will put on a good show.

Wouldnt doing speeds over say 130km/h on cruise possibly generate some boost due to the load against the car from the wind?

How is the clutch operation? i.e is it as easy to use as any other factory manual you have driven? Or did you notice it being more difficult to operate , i.e it stalled, you wanted to give it more revs, the friction point was very small to non existant? I have a twin and would not describe the sound as a grind. As mentioned its a rattling sound. Lastly, if this came up in a pre purchase inspection why ask the question after you bought it? Also, have you asked the previous owner what clutch is in it?

I had same problem. Took a while to figure it out as the turbo was ok and an compression and leakdown test came up positive. It only happened sometimes (the oil getting into intake) so was hard for me to replicate. Turns out it was simply the infamous oil drainage problems from RB heads. Everytime the car was punted through a right hander the oil would spew out the passebger side rocker breather which sits lower than the other side.

Some trucks have 100km/h speed limiters and some dont. We have a fleet of 12 trucks where I work and none have limiters. But I think what PHAT32 was trying to say is that trucks are techinically not allowed by law to go faster than 100km/h regardless of the signed limit. i.e if the highway has a 110k limit then being the driver of a heavy vehicle you are only allowed to do 100ks.

Just too add to the discussion on CO2 being ingested into the engine my friend had one of the commercially available CO2 intercooler spray kits. He had to mount his pod filter external of the engine bay and well away from any of the CO2 gas being sprayed as when the pod was inside the bay the engine nearly stalled when the gas activated. He now has a dry ice cooler, but has kept the CO2 system and is making up a rig under the bonnet so he can use it as a fire extinguisher incase the bay catches fire. (700kw dyno queen)

This subject pops up often and the answer is always the same. You get what you pay for. Pay peanuts, for cheap grade, thin, and poorly welded stainless steel manifolds and the chances of it failing are higher. Pay a lot of money, for decent grade and well made stainless manifolds and the chances of failure are substantially lesser. Nissan has a prime example with the R31 GTSR. Factory fitted stainless manifold in 1987. They are still around in great nick and still command over $1,000 second hand. Work ok too .

A cars ability to break traction is a common misconception people make to gauge power. Suspension setup and tyres have a massive effect on this, more so suspension. A perfect example is my car and R31NISMOIDS car. We both have import R31 coupes. He had over 270rwkw and was running 225 wide tyres from memory and they were just cheapies. Wheel spin in first and when into second gear it just stuck and took off. I had noticably less power at 235rwkw and had yokohama 265s on the rear. Not only first and second gear wheelspin, but even in third when ramping up to boost it would still step out violently.

I was thinking pedal box as well. My one died but it didnt snap so to speak, it slowly mangled and twisted itself into a mess. The pedal box doesnt cost much, but it isnt a fun thing to change. Think drivers seat fully reclined, and laying upside down with head under the dash and blood rushing to your skull why you have no room and cant see sh!t!! LOL. Its a common prob with heavy clutches, so if it is infact your problem just reinforce the new or old pedal box so it dont happen again. They are only made from thin folded tin with a scarce spot weld here and there.

Ok well I had a discussion with the workshop this arvo and they are adamant its not an installation issue and its the clutch. He told me he measured everything up before installation and he used the correct sized bearing. Also said he needed to use a different carrier and also used a shorter pin in the slave to accomodate for the twin plate. Lastly, he said "get under the car and try and push the fork towards the slave, if there is freeplay there then that means the clutch is fully engaging and disengaging and its a clutch problem" So under the car I go, and yes, I can push the fork towards the slave about 5mm before the fork hits the housing. I then rang my usual mech (who I didnt go to as he was booked out and I needed it back urgently) and he said that it seems that its 90% likely that infact my clutch is gone based on being able to push the fork back towards the slave and he might infact of used the correct bearing/carrier. When I mentioned the pedal issue, he said (as TO4GTR did) that its just an adjustment under the dash, but will have no effect on the slipping issue. From the above information, does it sound likely that the workshop infact did the right thing and that I need a new clutch? As mentioned, the clutch was fine before. But when the old box failed it got jammed into fourth gear and I had to ride it in fourth to get it going to limp it home for 50 metres. I only road the clutch for about 3-4 seconds, about 5 metres, to get momentum.

What type of boost control are you using?

The factory GTS-R turbo also runs the same VLT internally gated exhaust housing with the ridiculous internal gate setup. But as you saw on your mates car, throw some decent boost through it and somehow it makes the numbers. This run was on about 20-21psi. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=19707

Silly question, sort of, but if you have a traditional rattling twin plate and have it recoed is it possible for it to be modified so as to do away with the rattle?

TO4GTR, thanks for the advice. There is plenty of flop in the pedal. legend01, thanks a million for the link. The poster has the identical problem to me as did someone else and I dont think it was a coincidence we all had OS twins. Unfortunately he didnt get to the bottom of the issue and installed a new clutch. From reading through it though it seems highly likely its a bearing/carrier issue. So looks like the box is coming off again. Thanks for all the help guys. I'd love to say I will report back when I find the issue but I dare say if the box is coming off again I will just reove the twin,sell it, and have a chat to Jim from QLD.

Thanks for the replies mate and yes I have full intention of taking it to a specialist to get it looked at. Just put it up on here incase it was something simple I could fix myself. I'll give the pedal adjustment a go in the morning.

Hmm interesting. He told me the old thrust bearing was cactus and he replaced it. Would using the wrong thrust bearing/carrier give the same situation I am experiencing with the long pedal? Also with the pedal adjustment, isnt that for the "pedal" free play? i.e there is a few mm of pedal play, and then a mile of "different" free play, if that made any sense at all? A mate said pedal free play, and slave free play are different and that mine has a mile of slave cylinder free play but he has nfi how to adjust that.

Ok Just picked the car up tonight after it had an RB25 box bolted to the back of an RB20. The clutch is a twin plate and previously with the rb20 box it had a VERY heavy pedal and was very on/off in operation as you would expect of a twin plate. With the RB25 box I also purchased a new slave cylinder from Nissan. During the conversion the mechanic rang me and said the clutch seems to be fine and no need for a new one. He then called me today after the road test and said the clutch was dead as it was slipping profusely. I thought this strange as it never even thought about slipping prior to the conversion. Anyhow, I picked up the car and instantly I knew something was amiss. The pedal was no longer heavy to push, in fact it is lighter than my daily RB30e oz skyline. It also was no longer "on/off" in operation, it was easy to use, although it was nice I knew it wasnt right. The other najor issue is the amount of free play before you feel any pressure under the pedal. Basically from its fully disengaged position to fully engaged(firewall) 85% of the travel is free play with the last inch or two getting some resistance. I mentioned that to him and he said its probably because of the R33 "possibly" having a larger slave cylinder. I asked if it just needed some adjustment and he said no? Mentioning something about the fork and that there was no other adjusting to do or something along those lines. I didnt understand, hence I have come here for some advice. If I need a new clutch then so be it but I am puzzled as to how it was holding 285rwkw without batting an eyelid and then with the new box slipping like crazy? And why the insane amount of freeplay that he says cant be changed? Apoligies for the long post but just wanted to include as much information as possible. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance Jayson.......