FATGTS-R

I had a JASMA certified Fujitsubo cat back with centre muffler/resonator and final oval muffler with standard dump/front/cat and it was also noticably quiet when putting arond but had a deep clean note when opened up. Anything but a bark. You'll notice a lot of the cars you see with a "bark" are NA. Dont know about other aftermarket Jap systems but what I noticed with my Fujitsubo system was that it was extremely heavy due to the fact that it was extremely thick steel, which I think helped quiet it down. I reckon it would of been 3mm thick, if not more easily as it had a decent chunk taken out in one part at least 2mm deep and it had not made close to a hole.

From my knowledge only tomei sell an Rb24 kit and it isnt cheap. Nor is going about it on your lonesome and sourcing all the parts and the required machining hence why its a very rare excercise down here. The 2.3/2.4 capacity is obtained by a combination of an increase in stroke from a 25 or 26 crank and larger bore from oversized pistons. As you are planning on using forged pistons with the build, you could meet the 24 idea halfway and not use a different crank but use the oversized pistons and have a 2.1-2.2 litre. How far you can go will depend on how much meat is left and how straight the bores are. This will add to the cost of the pistons though and will only have the engine being 5%-10% larger in displacement. So in theory, at the rpm where the turbo made maximum boost previously, you could subtract 5-10% of that rpm and assume thats where the new max boost rpm would lie. i.e if it made max boost before at 4,000rpm, with a 2.2 litre it would be in at 3600rpm. All that extra money and mucking around for 400rpm? Is it worth it? A decent boost controller and well matched BB turbo could yield the same if not better results on the stocker. Food for thought. Do a search if you want any more RB24 info.

If you do purchase one, join the autronic forum as you will find it an invaluable tool for tuning/install tips and general info on the product.

I have 280rwkw, and use a $50 plastic little Bosch item. Worked flawlessly up till about 230rwkw. Still works fine now at current power but sometimes struggles to vent all the air as I hear a slight flutter sometimes. I'm either just going to add another one or throw a pair of GTR itmes on there.

Hi Guys, Towed my car to a mech to get an Rb25 box put onto my Rb20 engine last week. Now prior to this its been sitting in my garage since February, occasionally getting started and warmed up to operating temp and then shut down. Now I know I need to service it now as the last time I fired it up it started to miss a bit from all the cold start cycles its been put through so I assume the oil will be cactus from condensation and all the rich cold start running. Will it be safe to drive it like this sedately for about 5kms back to my work so I can service it?

You might also have a small inlet leak somewhere that closes up from heat expansion when it warms up. I had the same issue with my RB20 and thought I had gone over the entire inlet tract with a fine tooth comb and couldnt find it. The leak ended up being in the inlet manifold gasket on the sixth cylinder facing the firewall hence I didnt spot it. I soon found it though when it blew out completely and left me stranded.

From your details it sounds like it could be the stock lifter has shat itself but it could just as easily be the Bosch item from experiences I have seen. My best mate has a full tilt turbocharged Holden rodeo V6 ( turbonetics Y2K) and it has had more than one bosch pump fail. And they were not by any means long in the tooth. He has now resorted to using 4 of them with allowance for two of them to die on a dyno pull/drag run and still be safe. From what he,the builder and the tuner have diagnosed is that the bosch pumps, although being very capable of supplying fuel are very very susceptible to failure from any type of foreign matter that may pass through them which is what they have put the failures down to. Hence there are now filters before the pumps. Not sure if it has any bearing at all in your situation but just thought I would add it as I have indeed seen bosch pumps fail early in there life. ( to Boschs credit, they were all replaced without question)

Is that width doable on a 6.5 inch rim? Have a drag day this weekend and a mate offered to lend me his 275 MT streets. When I realised my 15 inch rim was 6.5 inch wide I laughed and said thanks for the offer but no thanks. I thought the 235 would struggle on the 6.5 inch width let alone a 275?

As above what aftermarket ecu do you have? I would assume it to be a given that all aftermarket ecus would have to have a rev limit function. Plenty around these days have a shift light output as well.

The reason why some people dont like Unichip is because tuning them is not acessible by everyone. i.e the workshop has to be a certified Unichip dealer meaning they will have the software/hardware to do it. Otherwise it cant be touched, a la Fcon. http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/unichip/applications.html

Tried searching and found a few different answers so hopefully someone can clarify. Have a bone dry R33GTST box thats about to be bolted to my engine and want to know how much gearbox oil to buy? Have read anywhere from 2.4litres to 4 litres. The oil I am getting comes in 1 litre containers so dont want to have too much as its not cheap and I wont be changing it again anytime soon.(I hope)

Was the bonnet open or closed? (IT62)

Hi Mate, Researched the same thing for a friend of mine who also has a potent engine combo. From SKs pm: "Drill and tap for a stainless steel cappilary tube long enough to let the exhaust heat escape before the pressure (map) sensor. Usually 300 mm is enough if the air flow around it is OK. Ideally you want exhaust pressure only a handfull of PSI higher than boost, 2 psi is great." Not sure if that was of any help to your cause or not.

How much power do you have? And how is the car driven?

Have you checked the inlet tract for leaks? Popped cooler hose,loose clamp, split etc?

In theory it shouldn't cope as Nissan themselves saw fit not to use it behind the RB25 but many people have used them with success. Will all depend on how you drive it though and what condition the box is in when you get it. R31NISMOID had a 20 box behind his RB25 (over 300rwhp) and it lasted a long time. Also plenty Of R31 guys turbo the NA engine (3 litres = more torque than 25) and keep the standard box which is near on identical to a 20 and make them last, although some smash them every 6 months which again comes down to driving style, clutch choice and tyre choice. If your car is still running with the auto I would just save a little longer and get the Rb25 item. The 20 box is cheaper, yes, but you will need custom tail shaft, custom/modified gearbox mount and sort out the speed sender. Obviously with 33 box it will all be factory parts you can source s/hand.

Not much help but I had he same prob. Mangled the crap out of the bracket and then bought another one and went crazy with the welder. Mine before and even after the bracket episode makes a squeaking sound. Clutch is an Ogura twin with a very heavy pedal.

I am also still confused. Neo is saying the part number ending with 17 is incorrect and it needs to end in 21, hence 21 teeth as this number of teeth he says will make it accurate. But what has how many teeth on the end of it got to do with anything as isnt the idea to cut the gear off anyways? Or have I missed something? Looking up Nissan part numbers and specs the 32 GTR sender has 20 teeth whereas the 32 GTS4 has 21 teeth. But as I said it dont really matter does it? Or has Neo not used the 33 cog and installed the Navara 21 tooth sender assembly complete and unmodified? I need to order a sender this week and want to make sure I get what is required. I will give this Lincorp a call as well and see what he has to say.

Thanks for the reply. I beleive I need everything EXCEPT the bit that goes inside the box i.e the geared piece. Im putting a 33 box behind an RB20 and was told to take off the gear from the 32 GTR sender and toss it. Then take off the gear from the 33 GTST sender and attach it to the 32 GTR sender. Then insert the GTR sender with 33 gear attached into the box and speedo will be accurate. The reason is the 33 GTST is an elec sender as opposed to the RB20s mechanical sender. And the RB20s sender doesnt fit on the 33 box so cant use that. Hope that made some sense and thanks in advance for any help.

How did you get on with swapping the cogs? i.e the c clip thing. Also, the navara sender you purchased, did the part number end with 17 or 21?

Not sure what it is but its not a redtop spacer/sandwich plate Roy. The redtop 20s had a 12 port spacer with a butterfly on every second port. Interested to know what it is though...

Hi Guys, Need the part number for a R32 GTR speed sender. Not sure if its the correct term though, as I am pretty sure I have seen people refer to it as a pinion gear. Any help appreciated.

as topic states I am after an R32 GTR speed sender. Please PM with any info.

Dont have a VIN but need some part numbers and was directed to come to the FAST thread. The part numbers I require are: 1.R32 GTR speed sender 2. R33 GTST clutch slave cylinder Thanks

Thank you very much. I will ask in the FAST thread and if no response I will take you up on your offer.