FATGTS-R

Hi everyone, Tried a search first and looked through the stickies but didnt find what I needed. I need the part numbers for: 1. R32 GTR speed sender 2. R33 GTST clutch slave cylinder,push type. Also, would like someone to tell me which Nissan spare parts departments are import savvy and may even have some import parts in stock. Tried Werribee Nissan and was granted with stunned silence over the phone soon as the words R33 and GTR were mentioned. Thanks in advance Jayson.......

Hi Everyone, I tried a search and didnt get any immediate matches so here I am. I need the part numbers for the following two items: 1. R32 GTR speed sender. 2. R33 GTST clutch slave cylinder, push type if there is a difference. All help appreciated and thanks in advance Jayson..........

Hi Col, I would love to be able to confirm one way or the other as I also have been told numerous contradicting stories but alas I cant. The latest statement I heard from someone "in the know" was that they had never seen an R33 gearbox that was pull, hence they are all push. As I am doing the 33 box conversion I have spoken to a few people who have done it before me to get info and every single person who purchased a 33 box managed to get a push type. I recently purchased a 33 box for my GTSR and it was a push type. The car it was pulled from was a 95 model which the owner described as a series 1.5.

I have a remote mounted AU coil pack on a redtop RB20, although with an aftermarket ecu and have had no dramas with it. I did however have VN items before the AU and they failed miserably, all 9 times.

Traditionally, an a/f plot with a tired fuel pump will show a/f ratios safe or borderline down low and then get leaner and leaner as rpm increases. Yours is doing the opposite as in it gets richer as rpm increases where the pump has more demand on it. Hence Pauls statement that if it can hold a 12:1 ratio at 6K then one would think it is able to do so at 3k.

Hi mate, Im in the transport industry. (actually do a lot of work for Toll). The price you got for $100 is about as good as it gets. For infos sake, the safest way would be to use a furniture removalist. Will cost about $50 to $100 more from QLD but it will be picked up by two guys, wrapped in felt padding, loaded onto truck and delivered to your door. It wont be handled numerous times from trucks to depots, to storage, to another truck and then delivered. Also get some clarification on this "transit warranty". I will sadly say that this term along with "transit insurance" is commonly used to mislead the one off public customer in the hope that nothing happens. 99.9% of the time "transit warranty/insurance" only covers what is known in the industry as FOC...Fire, overturning or collision. So if the truck didnt catch on fire, overturn or have a collision then bad luck. Find out if it covers damage from handling, or just not being loaded correctly, or if something else on the truck falls and slams into your bonnet. And get them to give it to you in writing. If they say yes it will cover it, then ask what the excess is to make a claim. A lot of companies will have exhorbitant fees to make an insurance claim which usually costs more than the total of the freight and value of the item so most people will just go away. At the end of the day, from my experience (7 years) the average is over 90% of freight getting there in one piece. But some items are more prone to damage than others, like a bonnet. You would be wise to send the seller another few dollars to take the time to carefully wrap it up securely, particularly the corners. Oh, and you would think its obvious but make sure the senders details (you) are plastered all over it in nice thick black texta, not a ball point pen.

I would be worried. Had exact same symptoms and car is now undriveable. Took it for a spin and soon as I pressed the clutch in the whole drivetrain locked up on me,car stalled, and its now permanently stuck in 4th gear. When the noise first started I was told it was the "thrust bearing" as the noise went away when I pushed the clutch in. It locked up 150kms later.

What have other peoples leakdown percentages been after a rebuild? When I bought my GTSR(Circa 1987), I got a leakdown test done before purchase and it averaged about 12% across the board which the mechanic said was reasonable for the kms listed on the odometer which stated 130k. Now for a 5,000km engine to show leakage as high as 9% isnt that a bad sign? What was the run in procedure? Maybe its a case of the rings having not bed in correctly?

If the car is manual I want the gearbox. Serious enquiry. Call me 0403 045585. Jayson. I am in Melb and will pick it up asap.

My Rb20 had GTR injectors (single pintle) and although it made decent power the tuner was not happy with the tune at anything other than WOT. I thought it drove fine. Its over my head, but somehow he pointed at the injectors as the culprit, which had just been recoed and were in good working order. So in went a set of quad orifice bosch items from APS that were designed for the xr6t and rated somewhere around 500cc I beleive. He told me that with these in it was so much easier to tune and gave a result he was happy with. When I got it back, it was as he said it would be and was a smoother running tune. Where I noticed the diference the most was at cruising speeds with very small throttle openings, it was much crisper to respond with the new items and economy improved by approx 0.5L/100km. After all that, I couldnt say if one is better than the other as I am not technically adept enough to understand the workings of each but in my own personal experience I had positive results switching from the single pintle type to quad orifice type. The tuner was also adamant that the older style pintle types were robbing me of drivability and I was not charged for the new items.

Im in a rare scenario where my car has not dropped in value a red cent in nearly 3 years of owning it. I wanted a turbo skyline so off to the importers I went. There was a lightly modded R32 manual and an R31 GTSR that had a cat back exhaust only. But factory fitted it had a TO3/4, nismo tubular extractors, a large front mount and decent seats, oh and they only made 800 of them. I took the R31. 3 years down the track they still attract prices from $13K to $17K. Whover made the comment on plus 15 year olds was spot on.

Are you planning on it being dual fuel or a straight gas setup? If possible, get a power/torque chart done on fuel before you do the conversion and then plot the finished result over the top so we can see the differences.

The oil return is not pressurised, it is gravity fed. Hopefully there are no rises in this return line.....

My friend had a vortech s/charger fitted to his built V6 rodeo engine a few years ago. It had a factory duel fuel setup and he wanted to keep it. It was obvious the factorys setup was going to be very restrictive so the only option was a gas research throttlebody/carby setup. I cant remember exactly, but I "think" the gas research item had to have another "gas injector" plumbed in to stage the gas insertion or it already had two and they were increased in size. The result? About 270rwkw from memory and within a handful of kws from the petrol tune. Between the gas and petrol though they were two diferent cars. After the tuner begging for mercy it was canned a week later. There was just no way to make the car behave remotely the same as petrol. If he got it to make the power numbers it was just a pig to start,idle and drive, and on the flip side if drivability was acceptable it had no torque and wouldnt make anywhere near the power. He wasnt interested in a compromise hence it was removed. This was about 3 years ago, so the latest hardware (if its even changed) and your tuner might be able to acheive an acceptable result. Just thought I would add someones experience.

What did you/they mean in saying the part numbers are useless? Useless as in they dont correspond to the actual specs of the turbos or useless as in they cant be seen/read? I assume your wheel size comparo is meant to be millimetres and not cms as well?

I have a twin plate and hate it. The pedal is heavier than standard but Im used to it. The driveability is worse than standard but I have adjusted to it. It has NEVER even thought about slipping with 280rwkw. But the friggin rattling, that is why I am getting rid of it. People know Im home, not from the sound of the exhaust note but from the friggin rattling. The car is mainly a streeter so at traffic lights everyone stares thinking somethings wrong with my car. Then theres the "your gearbox is f@cked"your bottom end is rooted" you reply with "actually its just my clutch and its normal" and get blank stares. I'm over it. My mate has a silent exedy twinplate which is ideal but I cant afford it as I need a new gearbox so I will be getting a Jim Berry item which from all research so far seems to be a good option for a single at my power level.

What actually happens, as in damage, when this bearing lets go? I went on a long drive and at the end of it developed a loud rattle from the gearbox. When I pressed the clutch pedal down the rattle disappeard and was told it was my thrust bearing on its way. I managed to get the car home, 200kms, and the rattle got louder and louder but I made it. Didnt drive it for two months but when I decided to take it round the block as soon as I dipped the clutch pedal to roll around the roundabout to come back the wheels violently locked up and it stalled. I was in second at the time but from what I can tell the box is locked in fourth. Doesnt matter where I throw the lever its stuck in fourth?

The burning thing has confused me but I have had whining three times before increasing with engine speed and the culprits were: 1st. gearbox 2nd. Timing belt idler or tensioner, which was a whining/grinding noise. You said you checked all belts and pulleys but you realise the timing belt is behind the timing cover yes? I removed the CAS, then undid and removed the top half of the cover and shone a torch in and saw metal flakes everywhere. The bearing had shat itself and was grinding itself away. 3rd. Clutch fan. Simple check is when car is off and cold is to try and spin it. If you cant turn it or there is a grinding sound when turning it then its gone. Giving it a flick it wont freespin but should spin about 180 degrees. When first started and car is cold you should hear it roar for about 30 seconds max. Start car in driveway and hold revs steady at say 2,000rpm and you should be able to hear it roaring and then die off. But like I said, as you also smelt something burning along with the whine it could be something different altogether as none of the above accompanied a burning smell.

These engines always amaze me. From what I have seen boost control and tuning i.e timing have major impacts and can make some peoples results seem meek to what I assume could be there true potential. Goes for all engines I guess. Was there any major boost control changes and/or tuning changes in the bottem end of the run from the 230 to 270kw runs? Comparing razors 230 graph to Roys 230 graph if anything roys is better down low indicating maybe it isnt 2.2 but maybe it is?. At ~106km/h raz has 13psi as does roy, but roy has about 125rwkw where raz has about 112rwkw. But bring in the 270 run and its like a different car altogether. 106km/h has 150rwkw and 20psi, the 13psi was reached at approx 99km/h this time? I encountered the exact same thing with mine. Power started at about 170rwkw,then 200, then 230, then 280rwkw. Each time power increased my boost was increased (same turbo all along) but the boost threshold never changed. Off the spring it has 7-8psi which hits at about 4,000rpm and with the 280 run it spikes to 24psi and then settles at 20psi but once again its all in by 4,000rpm? The major difference according to my tuner was that he used in his words "a shit load more timing" across the board to bring things on earlier and be more responsive and compensated by keeping the a/f ratios at a sane level. My a/f plot peaks at 11.5:1 and at full noise is 11.2:1. Would love to overlay our graphs as my engine is also an unknown with many beleiving its stroked as well but my plot is in rpm not km/h. After all that, once again congratulations on your result. I'm sure Carlh has been lurking and waiting to bombard us all lol. Hope he gets the triple tonne.

Why do you say that? You say it wont compete when it comes to balanced performance, what is balanced performance? You also say it wont compete with fuel consumption. If the Haltech is setup to use closed loop in the same fashion as the FC why would it not compete?

From what I was told by many people closed loop was used by factories to keep the CAT alive, nothing else. As Paul mentioned, economy can be maintained if not improved without closed loop by tuning leaner than 14.7 but it will take more time. At $2750, my SMC was cheaper. But I have been told the Haltech is a very decent ecu. A lot of people think if it isnt Motec or Autronic then its a class behind, which arguably they might have been a few years back but the others are improving and upgrading at a fast rate so they have to get there if not above sooner or later.

Damn how much tuning you done!!! Its on file 203!! When its all done please show a graph with a boost trace as well. Good to hear the tuner wants to keep it a few days to sort cold start, thats a good sign. Congratulations.

I beleive Troy AKA ylwgtr2 has ridden a dirt bike or two as well. I had a YZ80G back in high school and used to ride it with his little brother along the maribyrnong river. From memory Troy was VIC 80cc champion and rode at the MCG at one of if not more than one of the supporting events? He was probably 16-17 at that stage. KX if I recall. The YZ blew up and I sold it off. Ten years down the track and I still havent got another. But to this day I still remember like it was yesterday the thrill I had of riding it. Have fun guys and stay safe. If I can say one thing, its that safety gear works!

As I understand it the oil return from turbo is under no pressure and is just gravity fed back to sump. So I would say its not the cause But having that kink could slow down the oil return process and possibly back up the return pipe to the point its struggling to get out the turbo and blow seals? Am I on the righ train of thought?

Roys graph seems to have disappeared from the rb20 results thread. Would be good to overlay them as you both have same turbo and similar power. And if you went on and made 260 then well done mate!!