Ishman

My R33 GTR is in the shop right now with shudder problem when accelerating- seems to happen most when feeding too much gas before boost comes on= more torque, then increases with revs so have to back off . Guys thought it may be main bearing for rear diff. or engine/gearbox mount (forget which) They put it on the dyno and front left wheel started to shudder, so diagnosis was replace whole front left CV shaft.

Hey mate mine does this too, usually when I've backed off the throttle at low revs then as I start to build revs again can get a miss. Only in 3rd or 4th though, and not very often. I thought I read somewhere on here that it was a common thing for RB26s so I wasn't too worried; car runs great otherwise

Thanks for that. I didn't know they had gears; can you put the vents on swing or something, why would they need gears???

Hi, I think there's some gremlins in my dash! The tapping noise occurs when I turn the ignition on, and can continue for a short (few seconds) time after the engine has turned over. The noise is comparable to flicking the dash with your finger, only it is repetitious with evenly spaced intervals. It started as a series of 3 reps- tap....tap....tap................tap...tap...tap. then has begun to be continuous, and has even sped up at times. The noise comes from the centre of the dash, above the air vents. It first seemed to occur during cold weather, but lately it is occuring regularly. Any ideas?????

Appologies for the lack of information, when I first posted I didn't think it would be that complicated...until I entered the world of aftermarket seats. Yes it seems MO type rails are what I'm after (for Bride Euro 2 or Digo), which a distributer has confirmed for me. So I'll stop annoying everyone and go do some shopping

Unfortunately those rails are not compatible with that seat, at least according to the manufacturer, and are only for fixed back seats, which I should have mentioned I'm not interested in. Buying a seat without knowing for sure that the rails are right would be quite the leap of faith. Thanks for the sarcasm, but I think I've found a winner http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/part/bride/seat-rail-fg-type floor plan still doesn't look right though, unlike option 2 http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/part/bride/seat-rail-fx-type

Hi, I am finding it very hard to source a seat and rail that will fit in my R33 GTR; can someone please let me know of a combination that worked for them. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers,

Yeah, those are out of stock, and the only JJR seat I can find is fixed back anyway. This is the bride rail that says it suits R33 http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/part/bride/seat-rail-lr-type but look at the back left foot and compare to the JJR in your link- someone has got it wrong, plus these only suit the Gias or Stradia ($1,800). I just had a look at the "left hand side" Bride rail http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/part/bride/seat-rail-lr-type and it looks like it has the right floor plan- surely they're determining left and riight from the position of someone sitting in the seat not looking head on at the car???? Still don't want to pay $1,800 for a seat plus $280 for rails, then shipping. This is ridiculous- I can't believe that nobody can recommend a combination they know will work. Has no one got an after market seat in their R33???? Would really appreciate some help.

I wish it was this easy, it is starting to do my head in I have found seats with rails out of stock, rails with seats discontinued, or only compatible with an $1,800 seat (bride). The bride universal rail which is supposed to be compatible with R33Gtr does not fit the floor plan (back left mount is against the wall not floor) I have spent way too much time online, at work , trying to find a decent any combination; can someone please let me know of a brand of seat and rails that they managed to fit into their R33, I want to be driving my Line again. Cheers, p.s. has anyone had any luck fitting a standard universal rail, not skyline specific?

Hi, need a new seat for 33 GTR. Will consider most brands, but need rails too.

Hey, I was doing a search and found some more info on replacing R33 seats, it was all very old though 2004, 2007, and there seems to be a lot of talk about incompatible rails/floor plans, and modifying universal rails. Am I not able to just bolt my R33 rails on to a new seat, and then bolt them to the floor? I don't want to be fabricating anything, and really need some advice before I go buyinng a new seat. Surely someone has done this more recently.

Thanks mate, they look alright.

Hi, I broke my seat and need a replacement asap- I was pushing back on it as you would if you were trying to get your wallet out from some tight jeans, and snap, the metal link/brace broke. What I'm wondering is: are the rails for most seats a standard width? in which case I could get just about anything, swap the rails and bolt it back to the floor. if not, what is a good brand/model to go for- I don't do any track days, and would like a reasonably comfortable seat with decent side cousions. what is a new one likely to cost? I just had a look at an 'autotechnica' seat at autobarn $400, it felt alright, and was "semi-moulded", what does this mean? Is there a lot of difference between brands- remember I'm not going racing but want a quality seat still. What dramas am I likely to encounter? Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere, I couldn't find it. Cheers,

Thanks, I had a feeling that was the case, which is why my searches for "distributor cap" didn't produce much. Surely the afm would stuff up before water got into the engine, no?

Hi, I had to drive my R33 Gtr through a fair bit of water lately, thanks to the far north queensland monsoonal weather. One especially wet day it started to shudder at high revs; I'm not certain that the water is to blame and wondered if anyone else has had a similar experience. I have a pod filter at the front just under the headlight, and Z32 afm not far back. Has anyone else had their car shudder at high revs and if so what was the cause (I did search this first but not much luck) Ps where's the distributor cap hiding?

Yeah SVS aren't cheap but they do a decent job, and they have a 4WD dyno which was a plus for me as I needed some tuning. Just keep an eye on what they're charging for parts etc. that's all I'll say. I think labour is $110/hr now! Has anyone recommended another workshop?

I'd say fully synthetic 10W 40, not too many cold starts up here (i'm in cairns also). autobarn has royal purple for $100 4L, or there are people on here who may be able to post it for less.

I hadn't thought of that,now that I do , the rubber isn't exactly perished, the bonnet/hood does apper to be a replacement ( has RB25 info on sticker, doesn't line up exactly), has new radiator . Also has plenty of other new gear throughout so may not be related; everything is really solid, and had Fulcrum spend much time reseting the suspension and didn't report any issues. Surely, given the age of most of these cars, and the likelyhood they may have been in some sort of collision, more people would have had an issue with this part. Anyone had one dislodge without running into anything?

Hi, I had a request to post a pic of this. It is, apparently, an anti vibration mechanism which is built into stock steering wheels- mine was R33 GTR 95 model. It has four rubber connection points; all of mine had broken and it was floating about making a loud rattle (heavy sounding, part is probably 0.4kg) and setting my horn off on tight turns-intersections, cap parks etc If you have a loud ratle/vibration and gremlins in your steering wheel/column, this may be the culprit!

Yes can do, will have to wait till Friday; sorry hadn't checked this post for a while.

Found the source of this problem and the loud vibration- There is a small but heavy piece of metal that is part of the steering wheel and is there to reduce vibration, it had broken off and was bumping into things. I just had it removed and didn't notice much difference in the vibration, though I have VERY stiff suspension to start with. I was told the whole wheel needs to be replaced if I wanted to have one as it is built in. You need to remove a few things to get to it. If anyone is interested I can post a pic.

Well, FYI...my stick is same code, same length; oil is over the H with 3.5L, I know the specs say 4.9L, can't explain why- all I know is engine purrs along doesn't drop below 2kg/cm2...end of post. and yes I did drain it ALL before filling, twice now.

Thanks Moodles!- just got back from holiday, will check now. Cheers,

Hi Mate what I really neeed to know is how long it is? I already have one but not sure if it is correct one, ie is reading full with just 3.2L in an RB26. If you could tell me the length from top of cross hatching to knob at the top I would really appreciate it. Posted this request elsewhere had 22 views and none will reply Cheers,

Hi, can someone please be so kind as to measure their dip stick for me (no innuendo intended), I have concerns about the accuracy of mine, not sure if it is correct one, and can't source one. I need to know the length from the top of the Cross-hatching (H side) to the top end (bottom of knob) Your help will be much appreciated. Cheers,