starscream_r32

my afm is on the cold side intercooler pipe so yes i did take the afm out hence had to d/c the plug. all plugs and wires are connected as should be.

Hey all, I recently followed the AAC clean tutorial and Air Reg clean tutorial on here and now i've run into some problems! After completing both and putting everything back in the car i had high idle/reving. Car was also shaking alot and when i took the car for a drive i had no power and car wouldn't go. The idle issue has been fixed now but i still have the problem where the car is shaking like a mofo and i suspect a lost cylinder or something along the line. I only thing i took off and touched was the throttle body, AAC and Air Reg so i can't understand why i would have these issues. Anyone able to give me some advice? Thanks.

hey all, still having issues with the car and need to see if anyone else has any input. the idle issue has been fixed. however i am still having the issue where the car is shaking like hell and when i took it for a drive no power/ won't boost etc.. i believe a cylinder is not running? or something along the lines. anyone able to suggest what the issue could be? the only thing i did to car was: 1. take off throttle body 2. take off AAC to clean 3. take off Air Reg to clean and put everything back on and all these problems occured! idle fixed now but lost cylinder? WTF?!

quadruple checked.. everything looks like they are in and fine.. took the car for a drive and it wouldn't go... just rev... kinda misfiring/missing as well.. with no go... arghh

Hi All, Having a problem with the car... I thought my Air reg and AAC needed cleaning because sometimes the car felt like it didn't idle right. Upon taking our the air reg and aac they were both in mint condition (old owner probably cleaned em?). So i put everything back and now my car is not idling right. It used to idle at about 900rpm once warmed up. Now it's idling close to 2-2.5k even when warm/hot. The car is also shaking alot. Anyone able to help asap? Thanks.

i rarely got past 3k. so ur saying if i keep all gear changes under 3k without kicking the turbo in then from stat to finish ill always be slower/behind other cars? even lilttle 1.3,1.5L etcc are faster/ahead of me? dunnoo. if u guys get what i'm talking about but yer... maybe u needa be in the car to understand.. everyone that sits in my car thinks its slow cos i keep it under 3k and not let the turbo kick in... but boy do they get a surprise when i rev it though.. lollll.. i'll get a retune and fix a few little stuff and see how i go.. =)

any chance u can show me show pics of it? would be great! alsoo. if your running a full aftermarket comp it should really matter if the pipe gets hot right? cos with the ecu u can tune it to always read cool/cold air is coming through even if it's not the case? trying to figure out if it's worth changing the setup. =)

thanks for the post. yeah i know there's the prime sound but in addition to that there's this kinda squeaky sound like a mouse or something.. LOL. guess i should take it for a dyno/tune then. =)

only thing is my afm is actaully on the cold pipe that goes to engine/just before the throttle body.. so the cold air that goes to the air filter is pretty much useless? Don dada: your option sounds good.. prob easier for to change it like that.

anyone? thanks.

Hey all, Quick FMIC piping opinions needed here. I noticed there is 2 ways to run your cooler piping on the car. 1. run turbo pipe straight down front passenger side and run throttle pipe in opposite direction in front of the cam gears and between the radiator. 2. Run both piping going through the passenger side. I didn't really notice this or even think about it until i took my car down to O.H performance. Where one of the guys pointed out that since i'm running the throttle cooler piping through the front and past the cam gears/belts/radiator the pipe get's hot. He told me to touch the pipe while the car was running and sure enough.. it was pretty bloody hot. So he suggested to run the pipes both to passenger side. Does anyone have any opinions about this? Would it affect the performance of the car by much? Just trying to work out if it's worth relocating both pipes as per how the guys said. Cheers.

Hey guys, got another few problems with my car and need some advice. 1. Today while driving i can smell fuel inside my car. It's not strong but there's a feint smell. It seems to come and go at times. Anyone able to direct me to where or what it could be from? I've tried lifting the bonnet and smelling the engine bay but there's no smell. Also tried going to the back of the car and can't smell anything either. 2. How do you tell if the fuel pump is dead or on it's way out? When i turn the key to ignition on i can hear like a squeaky sound coming from the back for a couple of seconds (should be fuel pump making the noise) is it meant to make this sound? Also when i start the car... i have to almost always give the car a bit of gas for it to start. Hardly every starts without touching the pedal and when it does it takes a few cranks or a continuous crank for it to start and then it kinda struggles to keep the car alive. After that car is fine. I assume the fuel pump is dying? If it is is anyone able to tell me what an equivalent fuel pump to a R34 fuel pump would be? (eg. walbro?) a r34 gtr pump is gonna cost like $500 or more. Or can someone tello me how much a r34 gtr fuel pump puts out so i can find something similar? Don't wanna get something different/less cos it'll need a tune? Thanks guys!

lol.. guys i'm talking about racing off the line! i'm saying normal driving/take off it's slow/sluggish unless i put the foot down and get it into the turbo boost band. should still have some umphh even without the turbo kicking in? Its' an inline 6! feels slower then a 4cylinder. loll. Turbo is hypergear 28? Yes car is tuned.. (probs needs a retune) but it is tuned with current mods. about 235rwkw on dyno sheets.

Hey all, I purchased my r32 only like a month or 2 ago. The car feels very slow/sluggish until boost kicks in. I get munched by little yaris/jazz/swifts etc... at the lights (just driving normally) Boost on car does not kick in until atleast 4-4.5k! Car has fair bit of work done to it. CAI Pod FMIC 3" TBE Pon cams Cam gears Bigger injectors Better coilpacks Z32 AFM Upgraded fuel pump Bigger turbo Nistune ecu (can't remember if that's the correct name) Few other bits. I hardly ever floor/race my car as turbo lags and it drinks so much petrol... i'm a GRANNY driver! LOL. However when i drive normally it's so slow/sluggish... all these cars just overtake me and the ones driving behind me get's frustrated that i'm so slow. Car does not feel like a straight 6 down low in the rev unless turbo kicks in. Getting overtaken and beaten by 1.3L is a disgrace! Is this normal or what's up with the car? Any advice/help would be great. Thanks guys.

thanks! you're awesome! thought they were the ones.. but when i tried they we rock solid so thought it might be holding the housing or something. guess i can put some more force into it and not worry about breaking things cheers~!

anyonee??? can't seem to see any screw that adjusts the headlight on r32 projectors?

i know normal cars have adjustment screws... but projectors i think are different?

hey all. can you adjust the stock r32 projector lights? had an accident recently and shop fixed the front but its pointing down.. i can't bloody see the road at night, its like i'm driving without lights! could you please tell me how to adjust if it's possible. thanks!

my car has some work done to it... everything external.. including cams etc.. so i have a feeling i could possibly have a different diff. any way to know? isit a different shape? more bolts? etc.. thanks.

hey all, might be a siilly question (have done a search already), recently purchased a r32. im doing a full service and read that for lsd diffs you need different oil? is there a way to tell if i have the standard diff or lsd/aftermarket one? going by castrols book... i should use the epx diff oil (for an r32 gtr but i only have a gts-t).. but others on here say Castrol SAF-XA 80w-140. any light would be great! thanks.

hey status.. thanks for the reply. so what does that mean? it's normal/okay if its humming? or is there a fix? for the others.. that's all he really told me.. that there's a noise coming from where cam gears are and it's a bearing. as far as i can remember.. when i hit the roo impact was so strong that the car/engine cut out for a sec and the fan was pushed right against my radiator and could not spin freely anymore n yeah.. i haven't got the car back yet.. but tying to do some investigation.. so i guess the cost to fix it will be the same as a mechanic report.. damm insurance are smart... they know the cost to get a report is the same to fix it so they say i need the report to avoid more cost from repair.. grr! anyone can shed some light or confirm the above posts? thanks heaps!

Hey guys, So i had an accident with a roo a month ago. Insurance has taken their sweet time repairing it. Getting the car back soon. Anyway the panel beater said that that the assessment guys said there's a fault with the bearing where my cam gears are but they are not fixing it. Here's the problem. I purchased the car 1 day before i had the accident so i know there definitely wasn't an issue before the accident. Insurance won't cover it unless i go get a mechanical report saying that the bearing is a result of the accident. So anyone know what it would roughly cost to fix the bearing? Is it an easy job? A mechanical report would be about 300 and that's no guarantee that the issue is a result of the accident. Just need to figure out what is my best option/solution! Thanks.

BUMP! Bar and Dvd player still here!!! Come on guys!

any idea if these will fit on stock gts-t discs? or will i need gtr discs?

would you swap for my lcd/dvd single din head unit with cash ontop? its in the for sale section. if not maybe a replica sparco bucket seat with maybe some cash on top? for the amp! =)