25C35

Anyone?

Hey lads and ladettes. Ive got two questions im hoping people on here will know something about. 1: Does the speedo drive out of a rb25de neo auto box fit into a rb20det gearbox? If not which electronic speedo drive does? 2: Is there any differences between a R33 RB20e manual driveshaft and a R33 RB25de manual driveshaft? I know the yokes are the same but does anyone know if the flanges are identical? Cheers!

Ive been trying to find the brand of this front lip for what seems like ages now and figured id see if anyone here knew anything about it or know of somewhere that could have info about it. Cheers in advance lads and ladettes!!

Most of the fuses in my fuse box in the engine bay were gone, i had two headlight fuses missing (and for some reason my headlights workd) i had a aircon one missing i had removed the aircon when i put my motor in but there was still power going to that fuse. i was also missing a large main fuse type 30a fuse. all of these were in the fuse box under the engine bay. and there was only 1 10a missing in my in cabin fuses. I was also asking around when this was all happening and i was asked if my speedo was working, which it isnt (getting it wired up when the auto sparky gets a chance) and they said that the speedo on a rb25det box will zap alot of power, so if it isnt connected its not there to take any of the voltage that the alternators putting out so it overcharges. Thats 2nd hand info tho so dont know how true it would be. cheers for every1s help btw especially paul, good man

not quite sure actually, theyve never been touched while ive had it but i didnt check voltage before or after i put the 25det in so it couldve been like that for aslong as ive had it

put fuses in places where it was missing fuses and the overcharging is now gone. however the cut was still there, i finally got a hold of a mates AFM and plugged it in just before and it went all good. The weird thing is tho, i put my afm on his car and it seemed to go better with the one off my car. i then put my afm back on my car (no pod filter as that was how his was running for the test on my m8s car) and it went fine until i revved it out in 2nd and it felt like it wasnt goin anywhere, then in 3rd gear it wouldnt rev over 4 grand, had my foot to the floor and it running fine no coughing or farting but just wouldnt go over 4k, then the car just didnt want to run properly after that. any ideas any1???

ive only got battery voltage on the one wire, the other is for the warning light so im told and shouldnt have any power through it anyway. i took the plug off today and put on a wire that was known 12v and was good and when i started again it shot up to 15.5v again and the wire i put on had 14.8v goin through it. could this overcharging have anything to do with the cut im having tho? cheers

thanks alot paulr33, been looking through my boot n=but doesnt look like the c35 laurels have any fuses in the boot. do you remember what kind of fuse it was? was it a large one or just a small blade fuse? cheers

have checked all the fuses and none were blown, both in the engine bay fuse box and the fuse box buy the drivers kick panel. however some fuses where missing but they had A/T on the panel so im geusing they conrolled something when it was auto. also there was one fuse that had a 15 in it when it should of had a 10 so i took it out and replaced it with a 10 then when i put my car on ign it blew straight away then i realised i must of put a 15 in there as a quick fix to get to work the next morning when i installed my fans ages ago. Nothing has changed electricaly recently, the only thing i have done since before this all started is put the standard throttle body back on but ive put the 80mm TB back on to see if any cutting out still happens. the piping leading up to my throttle body is 2.25 then goes to 3" just before the throttle body so i thort some sort of turbalnce or bottle necking couldve had something to do with it? probably not but it didnt do it this bad and this often before. Im going to put all the fuses back in to what there supposed to be and check over everything again. cheers

checked the plug voltage and its the same as the battery. ive tried the multimeter on a few other cars around my house and thats all good. Ahh sweet as, ill try the headlights when im driving and see if that prevents the cutting. thanks.

cheers for the reply man. i also measured it at the back of the alternator and it was also 15.5v, the same as the battery. something else i did was unplug the plug that goes into the side of the alternator and the reading was 12.6(ish)v then when i plug it back in the cars revs drop and the alternator starts charging at 15.5 again

Hey all, recently joined up to the forums. My car has been overcharging pretty bad lately and it has also been cutting out which i think could be due to this overcharging. The car is a c35 laurel with a s1 rb25det, fairly standard motor, has : fmic 2.5" exhaust straight through greddy knock off ffp hdi ebc battery relocated to boot its been cutting out randomly, doesnt matter what revs or if its under load etc, and then sometimes is a prick to start again like the batterys dead but other times comes back to life straight away while the cars still rolling. it had been overcharging really bad, around 15.5, so i changed the alternator and it was still cutting out and overcharging. i also put in a mates alternator that was working fine when in his car but when in my car it is still overcharging and cutting. ive grounded the battery in my boot to the chassis and added another ground wire to the alternator, i also put my battery back under the engine bay to see if my relocating had done something but alas it was still doin all the same things. Anyone have any ideas at all to what my car could be doin and how to fix it? cheers