B-rice

Hopefully I can always find a clean line in a few years. Who knows maybe the value will drop too.

Pretty far. I'll be good in 12months time if I don't decide to get a GT-4. The benefits of living with rents.

I've been scoping out a R34GT-4 for a few weeks.The guy is willing to sell it for 12k. It has problems with the front drive shafts. Anyway if I get the a car was going to swap it out the engine for a RB26/30 and gearbox to suit. Pretty much build a replica GTR all by myself to reduce on labour. But the other side of me wants to save for a house deposit. Who knows maybe I could build this then sell it when time to buy a house comes. The fact that it's not a GTR means it probably won't hold value. Living without a line will definitely leave a hole in my heart. What would you guys do? Sent from my SM-G935F using SAU Community mobile app

Ok i'm resurrecting an old thread instead of starting a new one. I have a R34GT-4 manual, it comes with RC 4.3. I'm planning on getting a 33GTR gearbox series 3 as it is stronger. Are there any issues with using a GTR gearbox and the 4.3 ratio?

Admin Please Delete. Car has been sold

Update, car came back from one of the "reputable" garages in Sydney. They reckon the steering rack is what is causing the car to vibrate while driving. I was trying to think how the ticking is in any way or form related to the steering rack. Maybe some one can educate me on GT-Fours.

I'm buying a turbo neo engine. I think it would be better to use the diff that comes with the turbo engine (4.1). Just from a quick search seems like the 4.1 ratio is more popular. Not sure if there any disadvantages with going to a 4.11 ratio. So correct me if I am wrong, 4.1 at the front and 4.1 at the back. Would I need to change anything inside the box/transfer case?

Just sold my GTT....regret it but its opening way to a R34 GT-FOUR project. I could almost buy a house. Adulting is hard

Where are these meets?

That's great this is the information I'm hunting out for. Trying to get as much information as it is a risky purchase. I understand that, if the RC at the front is 4.1 the rear will have to match this too. Is there anything else that I need to do so it works smoothly? Currently the car has RC 4.3 I'm getting JEM to have a thorough look at it to see the extent of the damage. I'm quite handy with my hands so I could do the rest myself provided I know what's wrong with it.

R34GT-Four Vibrating and clicking Im in the process of buying a R34GT-Four coupe. I inspected the car and seems like the car vibrates almost like the drive shafts have been blown. So I looked at the the tyres on the vehicle and he has different wheel widths. Now im in the process of finding out how much this will all cost to fix the issue.I have a few questions Does anyone have any experience with this on their cars. I was going to drop in a RB25 AWD turbo engine. But im worried that the AUTO engine may have a different RC ratio. I checked, RC = 4.3 and found out from the Forums that RC 43 means it was auto. It has been changed to a manual. I need some direction on what to look out for and if it will be possible to drop in a turbo engine (Auto) with RC 43

WTB: RB25DET AWD Engine Willing to Buy RB25DET AWD engine RB25DET AWD engine off a Stagea or equivalent. Preferably low kilometers but not a big issue. Compression should be good. No variances between cylinders. It would be better if I could get it with a wiring harness. Pm or Send Text to 0417764194.

Comes with one year rego. Expires July 2018 ENGINE Car has engineering certificate saving you from the hassle with RTA * Rebuilt Rb25 head with ARP head studs, new springs, titanium retainers, skimmed, bored and polished. Head was built by Top Torque, Vermont. * Rb25/30 modifications made to the head with oil/water galleries modified with block offs and restrictors * New Kometic multi layer head gasket * All new rocker/exhaust/intake gaskets * All new hoses, oils and fluids * Rb30 block - nitto forged pistons, - manley rods, - block has been tested, skimmed, bored, honed * Crankshaft balanced * Rear head oil drain from Franklin Engineering in NZ return to block * New Garrett ball bearing GT 3076 turbo * Greddy type front facing plenum *R33 reduced throttle body with deleted traction control module * Z32 afm * Custom intake with hks pod * Low mount exhaust manifold * New Daycco Timing belt kit * New Competition stage 5 button clutch (still running in) * Lightweight racing flywheel * 1000cc injectors * Splitfire coil packs * New spark plugs * New Aeroflow fuel rail and fittings * Bosch fuel pump * Oil catch can with head breather hoses * Apexi Power FC ECU ( tuned in December by ESP and previously by Maatouks) * 3.5 inch Kakimoto exhaust with split dump pipe to external wastegate (screamer pipe) * Front mount intercooler * New alloy radiator with twin thermo fans (clutch fan is still available) * Nismo short shifter * New compact battery still positioned in engine bay Engine has done under 15000kms 315kws at 21.5psi conservative tune.Nothing was maxed. Has the potential to go to 360kws before changing turbo. Plan was to go E85 and HTA3582. I have decided to start another project. With AWD SUSPENSION/WHEELS/BODY/INTERIOR * Resprayed about 4 years go in skyline grey but with a metallic in the paint (very clean, hardly any imperfections, extremely straight and not a single spot of rust) * Body kit in great condition with no cracks/scrapes with front bar just resprayed to tidy up driveway scratches * 18 x 9.5 Rota g force wheels wrapped in Michelin pilot sport 3 tyres 255/40/18 on the rear (brand new). Grips really well * HKS adjustable coilovers * Slotted discs with ferrodo pads (New Pads yet to to be installed) * HKS turbo timer, data logger * Blitz electronic boost controller * Pioneer LCD touch head unit * Kicker rear 6 inch speakers * Resprayed centre dash in Matt black * LED tail lights I barely ever have enough time for this car anymore. The lip is yet to be installed and Project MU brake pads are yet to get installed. I have a set of LMGT4s that I can include in the deal at the right price. They have 265/35/18 Rears Michelin Pilot Sport 3 234/34/18 Fronts Michelin Pilot Sports 3 Not interested in swaps ATM unless if its a R34 GT-Four.Car is garaged 100% of the time. Mostly driven on weekends if I'm not working. Feel free to do a REVS check to check the authenticity of the kilometres.

So the car is up for sale now. Going to be funding my next project. Which I should be keeping for a long time.

Thats where I noticed that It's got bigger curves now.

Needs more pics of car. Saw the mad curves that it's got now.

I’m after finding out some information before taking on a project. I’m after building a 25/30 with a AWD gear then drop it into a R34GT-4. I’m going to be building it slowly, so in the meantime. I will be dropping a RB25DET from a Stagea or similar with AWD gear. Now my question, is the R34GTT ECU similar to the Stagea ECU (WGNC34/WGNR34)? Pretty much want to use the same ECU when I eventually put in the 25/30. I tried to look at the ECU pin outs, it all looks like they’re very similar. Probably should mention that I’m planning on using a Link G4 Plugin. I'm after some information and guidance to ECU compatibility and wiring. Is it possible to use a R34GTT on a Stagea engine?Or are the better ways to do this? So far I've found out that you can use a GTT ecu on the Stagea however to get the ATTESSA working. I need to get the signal form the traction control, split that into one goes to the ECU and the other to the ATTESSA. Is there a better test this could be done. Trying to get as much information as I can.

WTB:R34GT-4 willing to swap with RB25/30 R34GTT Willing to buy an R34GT-4 coupe manual. I have a fully built R34GTT with a healthy 25/30 motor and immaculate body. Willing to swap for that with reasonable cash adjustments. Otherwise, im willing to buy the car outright. Vehicle must be AWD can be auto or manual. Give me a txt on 0417764194 OR PM here

Good choice, Im going for the S360 8374 with no waste gate etc etc. Sits quite well on the compressor map too.

Yes it's a plug in ECU. I was worried if it is possible to do the same as covered here for the PFC. I have a map sensor and IAT ready. They connect on an XS loom.

Great thread, just so that I'm in the the clear. I will be removing the NA engine and dropping a RB25NEO AWD from a Stagea into a R34GT-4. I'm going to throw out he GT4 ecu and use a GTT ecu. To be able to retain the Attessa. I should split the TPS signal into two. One goes to the ECU and one goes to the ATTESSA. I will be running a Link ECU is it any different to a Power FC in terms of the trick mentioned above? Did you guys have to purchase a new wiring harness to be able to do this?

Hi mate if you decide to part out I'd be interested in the following Engine wiring loom Fuel pump Possibly coilovers and E85 setup Could come check out for more stuff potentially.

I have a lot of questions for you if you're still on here.Pm me or send me a message please