B-rice

What if a one way valve is fitted to the line draining from the cylinder head to the sump. This could the located as close as possible to the sump so that no oil ever goes back up to the head through pressure from the sump.

Lucky^^^^^. I hate anything to do with the electrics of a car. Way too many variables.

I think ill just stick to getting a bigger baffled sump and maybe put restricter with no drain. Ive read nearly the whole thread and actually more confused.

so read this thread for probably half my day. I can summarise it down to this 1. One of the middle oil feed is blocked and a restricter is put on the rear (VCT equiped RB25NEO) 2.Fitting an oil drain at the back of the head 3. Port matching the oil galleries to the gasket Now there has been a discussing earlier in the thread regarding the side to which the placement of the drain line from the head to sump should be located. Mspeed/Japs seem like they're going via the intake side whereas SK suggest going via the exhaust side with the drain above the oil level. So up to this date which way would be sufficient for a street driven car with occasional track days. Didnt quite get to see a good conclusion between the two ideas. Or is there a better method for having a bit more control to the oiling issue and breathing.

this is the one ive found comes with the air hold for using with air compressor. Its quite and costly exercise to do seems like i have to get Camshaft seals Rocker cover seals with the half moons Possibly timing belt aswell (I just changed mine barely 20k ago) but for insurance i will Valve stem seals and probably headgasket if i drop a valve in there.

Loooool people and new threads these days.Mods must be sleeping

Nice one glad your sorted I've changed mine so many times should time myself and see how quickly I'll do it.

Da bishes

I have same problems with mine smoke on decel, take off and gearing down, at idle it does smoke a little somtimes will probably have to pull the head off. Someone mentioned it can be done by pressurizing the cylinder your working on. And found the seals for about $50 from nissan.

reopening closed thread. i did a cold compression test my results were within 120 -128 or so across the board. Seems like the rings are fine. I also have smoke on deceleration or when i give it gas it puffs for a bit. MBS did you find the cause to the problem. Willling to try and change them without removing the head aswell for the added costs of machining it and getting new gasket.

resurrecting old thread!!!!! anyone managed to change the seals whilst the head is still bolted on. Thinking of moving each piston to TDC when im working on them to stop the seals from falling inside.

gents have any of you guys here installed metal gaskets without machining the block. Its just a pain to take it out and have it machined. I am chasing 400kw eventually from the engine. RB25neo.

hey great write up. Willing to use it to calculate my compression ratio if i use a metal head gasket. I dont understand what you mean by "block deck to piston crown measurement" Also "piston measurement above top ring land x piston measurement above top ring land"

Hmm will have to take your word for that. You have standard lines aswell. ?

Yh from the research I've done some paper filters disintegrate with the ethanol. Just like how it eats up most things. Yh he said it's compatible so will go for this.

found this on ebay i know lol. he says its a stainless steel filter capable of 10microns and thoughts or experiences? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200968280640

I asked also i another thread, what filters are people using. im after a 10micron filter compatible with E85 the few ive seen arent compatible with E85.

gents just read people talking of 10micron filters. Most ive seen are not compatible with E85 what typre are poeple running for their cars? Im after a 10micron filter preferably washable if possible with E85.

you have the fuel tank lid?

Car started it was a loose connection somewhere which got reconnection after unplugging everything.

Ahhhh it finally started I just pulled out every fuse,relay and connections and reestablished them. I earthed the coilpack to strut brace and tried it again. Seeing the spark was the most delighting thing. Put everything back in and it started straight away. So it was just a loose connection somewhere. I did plugin into the vipec as I have the software and it said nothing which was a bit shit. But I guess it wouldn't figure the error out without connection. Thanks again guys.

Vipec V88 PLUGIN. yeah will check that again tommorrow and maybe the pins

So my car wont start now. It can crank for a good 10secs but it wont fire. I need some ideas as ive tried all i know. 1. Pulled out the fuel pump even though i could hear it 2. Pulled off the fuel hose after the filter and fuel pours out 3. Checked the injectors by moving the CAS and i could hear them ticking. 4. Checked the fuses and none of them seem to be blown same as relays on ECU side. 5. Changed spark plugs still no start 6. Pulled out coilpack loom and tested it with multimeter and its continuous 7. Tested for spark by earthing a sparkplug to strut brace and theres no spark. 8. Did a cold compression test to check mechanical issues 120,123,125,120,120,120 any ideas to whats causing the no spark issue. after all the attempts i have a check engine light on. I have a VipeC V88 PLUGIN and no codes are being indicated.

checked compression and 120,123,125,120,120,120. This was a cold test with a bit of oil squirted inside. Not sure if i can still have compression with a broken cam. Checked the loom for continuity and its good, checked the iginition relays and they have connection. Im really confused why theres no spark.

It's not oil because it doesn't do that when I'm on 98. Just unburnt fuel.Only does it when decelerating from WOT. If I ease up normally it doesn't do it. Will check compression just incase something is wrong with the rings.