B-rice

I left them on and masked everything. I didn't want to bleed the brakes.so took a shortcut. It will look better if you took it off and the clips I'm yet to sand paper the Nissan out and paint it silver or white.

So I finished off the front calipers and they look the shitz with the anodized look.Smash out the kaput rear studs and do the rears too.

Wish there was a forever edit button to add the things mentioned above. thanks anymore errors please point them out.

Ok i pulled my timing belt out several times because i had a whirriing noise coming from the timing belt area. On the second time i thought i might aswell take pictures there might be some people who think this is a too difficult job to do.I was quoted $850 with me providing parts, did it in less that a day will buy myself something with that cash. Proceed at your own risk this is the way that i tackled this problem.It may or may not be the best to your situation.So I would not be held incharge for the damage it could cause to your car.This is a guide not an actual manual of doing this. Difficulty: 4.5 -6 /10 Anyway it took me about 4hrs first time but ended up taking 2hrs the last time i took it off. For the job here are the tools that i used.Your gonna need some demineralised water and coolant if your mix it yourself or just buy a premix. Step 1. Take the engine undertray off if you have one the middle section only no need to take undo the wheel trays. Took a flat bucket placed it under the radiator drain plug located at the left of the radiator. It is a rubber seal with a Phillips type head for you to undo it.TAKE CARE NOT TO STRIP THE HEAD OR ELSE YOU'LL HAVE TO ORDER ANOTHER FROM NISSAN. Open the radiator cap and remove the top hose using a pliers or long nose pliers. Remove the bottom hose located the right side of the vehicle.DO NOT THE CLIP TOO FAR AS IT WILL BE HARD TO PUT IT BACK WITH THE SPACE THERE. Step 2 While its draining you might want to start undoing the clutch fan bolts. You will need an M10 spanner . To make your job easy you might want a ratchet type spanner as it will make your life easier for $12.85 from Bunnings, took me a while to get these off with my fat arms.The spanner will be great also putting them back in.After undoing slip the fan out via the left, near the battery. Step 3 Undo the bolts fastening the radiator two of them at the top of the radiator M10 nuts. Pull out the radiator some liquid may drip out. Step 4 Take out the CAS by undoing the three bolts in place. Take out the cam cover by removing the five bolts bolting it onto the engine. You may want to draw an outline marking where the CAS sits. NOT DOING THIS COULD SCREW UP YOUR TUNE. Un-clip the CAS from the wiring connector and put it away face down.(ass up) It should all look like this now except with the belts on. Step 5 Now we undo the belts starting with the power steering belt. Losen the circled bolt with 5 turns. Then undo this long bolt till the nut is about 15mm to the end of the bolt. Didnt take a pic of the ut but its similar to this on the alternator side After undoing the long bolt undo that holds the front of the long bolt. Its is pictured below. After undoing that bolt you should be able to swing the power steering pulleys towards the right, this will untension the belt enough to take it off. Step 6 The middle belt requires you to go under the car and undo bolt one slightly 3 turns and the second until the belt can be taken off. The order indicated in the picture.Then you can push the tensioner up and the belt will be loose to take off. Step 7 Undo the alternator by loseing the main bolt. Then losening the long bolt and the one fastening the long bolt to the alternator.Before you take the long bolt lose mark it at the end with a marker so you will not under/over tension it when putting it back.make sure you mark each belt to where its coming from as they are different lengths. I placed the alternator belt on the right side of the car since its on the right and the power steering on the left and the other infront on the car. Step 8. All the belts are off its should look like this. Then now we grab the breaker bar and 27mm socket.The crank bolt is inside the harmonic balancer, The car should be in 5TH gear with the handbrake on , before you attempt to undo it.After completely undoing it tighten up the bolt again with 5 turns max.Place your gear puller with the center supported the the crank bolt adjust the levers to that they are pulling of the same lip. turn the puller on the balancer to see if the three levers have been attached properly. To start removing the balancer turn the center shaft clockwise. It may take two or three turns till it starts showing signs off coming off.As soon as you see it move, do not keep turning the shaft as it will pull and damage the balancers lip because the crank bolt is actually stopping it from completely coming loose, therefore your just fighting against a bolt that can be taken off. Take off the bolt and pull out balancer watch that the key does not fall out and get lost. Step 8 Put the bolt back in and finger tighten. Put the car in neutral and bar the engine clockwise NEVER ANTICLOCKWISE. Line up the marks on the Cam cover to the exhaust cam and the inlet cam, at the bottom line up the crank gear to the groove. After lining them up undo the idler and the tensioner. M17 AND M14.Might want to compare the part numbers.Put the car back in 5th gear and remove the timing belt without moving the cam gears or the crankshaft gear.To undo the idlers you need to remove the plastic cover same bolts as the cam cover. Step 9 Removing the water pump involves removing 6 x M8 , 4 X M10 , 1 X M6 bolts. Put the bucket under the pump as there will be some coolant in there, tap the pump off lightly with a hummer and it will come off. It will looks like this. Make sure you pay attention to where the bolts came from mainly the M10 bolts as the washers make them a bit different in length.(From memory single washer goes on the top two bolts also securing the alternator bracket, but please check this when undoing) Wipe away all the coolant as much as possible some will still drip out a little. Put a rag inside the holes to suck up all the fluid then using the wire stuff used to scrub pots.You can use that to remove the gasket sealant left behind. Make sure the mating surface is clean and free from and oil or dirt. Step 10 Installing the studs to the new water pump you will screw in the studs as far as possible with your hands. Then using the bolts to secure the fan belt. Drive the nuts on the longer side of the stud until its finger tight then use a ratchet to tighten it right to the end of the thread. It will act like a bolt head and when you tighten it the stud will be firmly screwed into position. Add a continuous stream of gasket maker on the mating edge of the water pump aprox 6mm thick even around bolt holes.Put two bolts top and bottom and put the water pump in place. Finger tighten every bolt making sure each bolts has grabbed its thread. After this you may tighten all bolts untill you see the gasket maker flanging out. Stop and let it set for an hour and get yourself a break or something.Depending on the instructions given with the gasket maker. After sufficient time has lasped torque down the bolts with a torque wrench if you dont want to break bolts or under tighten them also do it slowly as rushing it makes a bolt easier to break even with a torque wrench. Nm kg-m M6 = 17 - 21(1.7 - 2.1) M8 = 20 - 23(2.0 - 2.3) M10 = 35 - 47(3.6 - 4.8) Use these to tighten them down extracted from the R34 Service manual might want to check if its different with 33 and 32s.Remember to put thread locker on all the bolts Step 11 Put thread locker on the idler bearing and tighten it down to (43 - 58) Nm or (4.3 - 5.8)kg-m. Put the tensioner on and spring loaded it to the stud and finger tighten the nut.Getting the belt on you need to align the belts timing marks if its comes with them to the exhaust and inlet cam gears and cover. The same should be done to the crankshaft gear.Place the belt gripping by about 5mm on the cam gears and the tensioner and the rest of the width of the belt hanging off. When you move the tensioner using a allen key it should give the belt more slack enough to slip it onto the idler with a bit of effort.Once its on the idler you can tap the belt with a rubber mallet making sure its full width is gripping to the cam wheels, crankshaft gear and idler and tensioner. Tap the belt on its its flush with the gears or maybe 2mm inwards. check your old idlers to see how far inside the belt was pushed in. Depending on the belt you have tension the belt adequetly with the gates timing belts you may want to move it 3mm from its original position.Check the belt if its still indicating to be tight enough.Should be able to twist a 1/4 out of the belt. Tighten the tensioner with the torquing measurement given above. Make sure that the markings are aligning excatly and then proceed to the next step. Step 12. Put the engine in neutral and start barring it clockwise align the markings twice.So spin it so that the linigs will align twice in two or the markings revolutions.The marking on the belt will not align but after every rotation the markings on the gear and cam cover holder should always align, if not start again untill it does. Step 13 After turning it twice put the cover back on and tighten.Put the washer before the balancer then put the balancer back on by aligning the grove with the key. The push it into place put some grease and it should slide in easy. Put some thread locker on the crank bolt and fasten it to the balancer whilst the engine is in 5th gear. The tightening torque is 142 to 152 N.m or 14.5 to 15.5 kg-m. After tightening put the cam cover back on and the CAS following the markings made earlier. Step 14 Install the belt again starting with the alternator, A/C belt and then P/S belt. Install the radiator back on again ensuring the drain plug is adequately tight. Plug the bottom hose in and maybe your crossover intercooler pipe if you have one first before putting the top hose back on Put the fan back on before the intercooler pipe. Mix up the coolant if you need to or pour it in if its has already been mixed for your.If you mix it yourself use de mineralised water its very cheap from Bunnings or supercheap auto. Lodge down a coke bottle into your radiator and tape it up close to water proof. Start you engine and let it run for atleast 20 mins In between the twenty minutes open the coolant bleed valve to let the air out then close it when a continuous stream of coolant comes out. Rev the engine a little bit some bubbles will come out through the bottle. If the level rises in the bottle open the bleed valve. After a while the bottle will start to melt so you may need two. When changing over the bottle turn off the engine.Put a towel or rag around the bleeder pipe it can be messy. You may just need to spray up your engine bay to get it clean. Take it for a drive and see if any coolant if leaking out. Make sure youve washed down the engine as you can be fooled that coolant is leaking when its the spill from the bleed valve. Good luck i hope it make sense and detailed enough for you any questions PM me or ask someone will answer. Any additions and subtractions are welcome as its the first time ive done it.

check AngryRBGTX i think he found a solution my solution was to adequately tension the tensioner.if you have a blue gates timing belt thats 100% the cause of the problem. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/420313-timing-belt-noise/

Thanks Richard and Kat will be sourcing out some of those hopefully get my car back on the road. I know you can still normally drive it with four but i wont be tempted.

you got the radiator drain plug by any chance?

yh was debating between those and KICS R40.But if i spend that much I need some good wheel studs that will not strip and be forced to throw those duralumins away. The tightening torque is 100nm right

Anyone keen to take a video. Its would be awesome maybe post it around here somewhere.

ohh anyone know of some reputable wheel studs out there seems the repco ones dont hold up well.Heard good stuff about ARP but they dont have have 1.25 pitch i need.

some serious sand papering and brake cleaner inbetween. Needs patience do it until you see the silver metal or something closer. Mask up everything that might get sprayed. i masked the hub bolt,rotor contact and bolt thread. Do very lights coats too or the paint will run. Ill properly get the three left done when I get wheel studs i seem to have gone through a second set. So im afraid if i undo the other wheels ill just strip the thread.Just undoing one of the nuts on the other left rear wheel i could feel the threads getting stripped. Its funny too how only one bolt gets stripped the rest are fine.

sand paper it a bit and paint over it. If your talking about your wheels.Did it to mine and also painted my rusty looking rotors.

The last time I caught a bus was more than a year ago getting a service. If the bus system was good people would use them more, but you take a million hours to go to the south from the north.

whats the best way to upload pics on here. Using photobucket or imagehoster or is it better using SAU memory. Ive noticed some pics dont appear after a few years

hahaha the window always lets me down, specially for the last second reaction. Nice car man!!!!

i found the culprit if you have a gates timing belt. Its 1000% the cause, its because theyre such a tight fit, therefore you have to put very little pressure on the tensioner to get the noise away. ild say 95% of the noise is gone i can only hear it if i park on stop on an incline not sure why but thats what i noticed. I took the balancer off more than 5 times just to get the right tension. check timing lines, then tension a little from its current position,put the balancer back on and tighten maybe 50Nm if you have a torque wrench(or enough just to start it for 3-5secs) on without bottom cover.When you tighten it has to be in like 5th gear. Then Start the car max 4secs of else the belt will slide off dont rev it. The noise will get louder or lesser depending on how much tension there is. Repeat the process in bold, my final tension setting was about 3mm away from the rest position with the belt on. Also check after each start of the engine to see if the belt is coming off.Gently tap with a rubber mallet or something soft. if its not clear ill pm you my number im happy to walk you through it.

gates timing belt the blue one. Ive posted a link on youtube

I just replaced the timing belt and did the water pump too, put in new idlers and tensioner. Now im getting a whiny noise coming from the engine. Its around the belts area cant be sure which one it is. I took the timing belt off twice because i heard this, thinking id screwed up the timing but its all lining up.I tightened everything according to the torques given by the Workshop Manual. So if anyone has a clue whats going on please shed some light onto my path.

i have the same noise too not sre if its timing belt.Sorry for hijacking didnt want to start a new thread.Im thinking either not enough lubricant in the ldler and pulley or too tight. Anyone familiar with this noise?

Hey do you have the engine under tray and the bolts for the water pump. Sent from my HTC One XL

make sure you do a lil documented project it could turn out to be really good.

dont worry i put it in 5th gear and then did it, and it worked. Doesnt work in first or second and third not sure why but its doesnt.

ahhh i just finished it and starts again. Might give the belt some run in time. No flogging it for about 500kms or more. Thanks for the help now I need to do something a little harder than this

the engine is turning when im trying to undo the bolt how do you stop this?

Im in the middle of changing my timing belt and cant remove the drive belt,alternator and P/S. Is there a certain sequence of going about this because i keep tightening the belt but the reverse is doing nothing at all. Iv undone the hinge bolt pictured in the second picture. The two bolts im confusing of their functon are in the first picture.Ive undone the short belt, and tightned the long one and it pulls the alternator back essentially tigthening it. Help want to finihs this early if possible. so i managed to take the alternator belt off by removing the water pump pulley. Anyone know where the hinge bolt for removing the A/C, Power steering is? Would undoing the tensioner circled loosen the power steering?