bit OT but for the people asking about VQ tuning, http://www.uprev.com/
I believe WA has the only real-time dyno tuning agent (Tokyo motorsports), but looks like they do mail order stuff too
bout the only dvd's im happy to pay for, even if I can download for free.
Real shame, was looking forward to seeing more modern stuff in the old formats
If there is a lot of dead space before the clutch bites, is this meaning the clutch is worn?
Is there anything I can do to adjust the bite point of the clutch?
took out the car to time attack last night.
Wasnt very fast, huge learning curve coming from FWD n/a cars to a RWD turbo on the track.
Ended up with a loose bolt on the power steering pump coming undone and covering my engine bay with fluid, not sure how to clean it out yet given all the electricals in that area.
Have decided that I really should get some more seat time before I go hunting for more power, the car likely has 4-5 seconds of time to gain just from a better driver.
as mentioned, its the torque that will be the issue with the rb20 box/clutch, even at the same end power level.
Nistune alone is an extra $800-$1000 on top of your $3k RB30, so you've blown it by 25% right there.
In the end, they do the same job and have 3x the warranty at about 1/2 the price. I couldnt be happier with them.
I've been considering changing the colour to white as I love that colour contrast, pain in the ass to keep clean though!
and yeah the plates are good, got a big laugh from the shannons guy when I was getting insured
Thats all good, but what about the ancillary stuff?
AFM
Injectors
ECU
Tune
Fuel pump
etc
My recommendation:
Injectors
nistune
AFM
2nd hand turbo of some sort
Pushing it for $3k though
have GTR seats in mine as its only a sometimes racer.
If doing more track work i'd go for something fixed back or tighter, but I like some room to move on the street, and as you mentioned 100% legal.