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Everything posted by Lonewolf1983
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nistune will pick you up a fair bit of power and some fuel economy. FMIC is a must at that boost level fuel pump is a good idea as old ones tend to shit themselves should be good for 200-220rwhp once that lot is done
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R32 Gts-T Project
Lonewolf1983 replied to Lonewolf1983's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
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great motor, i loved mine, but not exactly bang for buck, especially in an S13.
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yep 10-20kw, a nistune ECU would give you another 5-10. If you want cheap power, forced induction is the way to go.
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R32 Gts-T Project
Lonewolf1983 replied to Lonewolf1983's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Its hard to say exactly, but id say about an inch, can now squeeze in with a helmet which is the main thing for me. -
R32 Gts-T Project
Lonewolf1983 replied to Lonewolf1983's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
wow, so much interest Picking up an Z32 AFM this weekend, and gtr resistor pack, then shopping for a turbo! -
sundays always best for me, work on saturdays!
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you will often find that aftermarket rods and pistons will also be lighter than factory, so that can help a lot with bearing life and performance. Also, forged pistons provide you with a bit more of a safety barrier should you get bad fuel/high temps/blocked injector etc. As far as im concerned, a lot of the cost and effort is the labour. so you might as well put in some good forged stuff while your are it.
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I call 1bar @ more than 5000rpm laggy, but thats just me and yeah doesnt make a difference on the circuit as long as its kept over that sweet spot!
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seems pretty laggy, but I guess it doesnt really matter for a circuit only car
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Nissan dealer for bar justjap sell the front lips (havent purchased mine yet)
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yeah 100mm to the lowest point when all seats are loaded with passengers. suggest you find some stock struts and springs to put in!
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Nissan will sell you the lip too I just elected to get a carbon jun copy instead for wank value.
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Very different cars VW was smooth and torquey down low and euro luxury and expensive to fix Skyline is faster and more exciting and cheap to fix In an ideal world I would have both!
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note that is minus the lower lip and vents, but yeah not that bad really.
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yeah its a fiberglass copy, paint is crappy and its cracked, so replacing with a proper one. Think retail is $700+, i got it cheaper through a contact
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i couldnt find a bar, so bought a brand new N1 bar from nissan (not on the car yet). Mine:
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Figured i'd post up about the GTST that I picked up last year. Have previously owned the following: 93 charade: 1.5L motor swap, cam, whiteline suspension catalog etc 99 Pulsar N15 - cams, extractors, exhaust, springs etc 89 Mazda 323 - b6t engine swap, exhaust, intake etc 93 180sx - t28, rims, suspension, FMIC etc 94 Pulsar n14 - sr20ve, cams, ecu, coilovers, 4pots, lsd etc 02 Bora 4motion - cams, retune, coilovers, brembos etc Loved the Bora but wanted something cheaper, more fun to drive, and track oriented. HCR32 gts-t, previously owned by member on here "Bangn", his thread here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/329420-r32-gtst-project/ Bought the car with the following mods: 45V1 R33 Turbo running 14.5psi Nistune Ecu - tuned to 236.5rwhp Bosch 040 Fuel Pump 3" Bellmouth Dump Pipe 3" Mandrel Bend Exhaust System All new Power steering hoses All new Cooling hoses and bypass hoses All new Vac & Breather Hoses All new fuel hoses from tank to the front of the car New Rocker Cover Gaskets, D Rubbers & Bolt Washer Rubbers New Injector Seals upper and lower Intake Manifold stripped off, acid bathed and re-sealed Hicas Lock Bar Gearbox overhauled with new bearings and seals New K sport Coilovers New Front Nolathane Camber Adjustment Bushes New Front Nolathane Caster Adjustment Bushes New Front Nolathane Lower Control Arm Bushes 17" Buddy club P1s wrapped with 235 GT Radials on the rear and 225's on front Oldschool Momo Wheel Greddy/Grex Diamond Gearknob GTR front Bumper Rio VZ Commodore Side Guard Flashers Stripped back the GT Badges to Chrome Finish Sound deadner and all sound insulation removed, boot also stripped 324mm GTR front rotors with unique autosport caliper brackets Brand New DBA 4000 Wiper Slot front and rear Rotors Brand New EBC redstuff pads front and rear BeeR rev limiter Fire Extinguisher fitted to passenger floor 18% Tint Few pics: Took me about a week before I put in GTR seats for better support and head clearance (as i'm 6'2) Took it to the drags as is and ran 14.1@102mph with a 2.37 60' 13 in it with a better driver and better tyres but not really into straight line stuff. Bought a kakimoto regu 06&R catback, which sounded great, but a bit too quiet for me since its only a weekender. Found that it didnt give the best fitment on my car either due to the custom front of the exhaust. So swapped back to the straight through 3" system. Swapped out the K-sport coilovers as the 12kg front springs were too stiff, and I wanted something with a better reputation. Now running on BC "gold" coilovers, and wound them up slightly for better ground clearance. 100000 times better handling! Did a drive day or two, and had some fun driving an RWD car in anger for the first time: Car then developed a missfire, so I replaceed the coilpacks with Yellow Jackets, as they were a shitload cheaper than splitfires, and have a longer warranty. Fixed the issue thankfully! Bought a set of Federal 595RS-R tyres, 215/45 front and 235/45 rear, and they are fantastic! Great grip, and cant wait to get to the track to give them a real workout. On a "sprited drive" through the perth hills last month, the old RB20 decided to spit out all its coolant. I Babied it home, 30 minutes with the temperature gauge off the chart, not so much as a cough or splutter Decided to do the following as I believe some maintenance items were missed a) New OEM timing belt b) New OEM thermostat c) New OEM water pump d) Cooling Pro 42mm alloy radiator e) new coolant, oil filter and castrol sport 5w30 The plastic fitting on the OEM radiator was broken off in the top radiator hose, so glad I replaced it! Touch wood, but the 225,000km old RB20DET lives on!! Recently noticed that the body has the following issues a) Fiberglass front bar has cracks in it, and the paint is bad b) a big scratch on the front 1/4 panel c) rust in the rear guards I have purchased an OEM N1 front bar, and will team this with a carbon front lip and N1 nostrils, and get the other stuff fixed up. Other plans: Cusco or Quaife LSD - std viscous unit is single legging at times GTR injectors - have these Z32 AFM new turbo - Hypergear ATR43-SS1 or HKS gt25/30 Be happy with a nice responsive ~300rwhp that I can use on the street/track without worrying about breaking too much. Thanks for reading the essay, lol.