Lonewolf1983

i run mine at 1bar and has been for a while, that said I dont mind if it blows as its due for replacement with something bigger soon. But yes if you're after long term then I wouldnt go past 12psi or so

your current mods are about all you need, throw in a cheap manual boost controller for 1bar and enjoy ~200whp

have had a bit of interest in this, first in best dressed! Pic of center muffler that has a few scratches

let us know time, date and location so I can perve from the bushes KTHNX.

Kakimoto Regu 06&r For R32 Only been on for a month or so of weekend driving. Selling to recoup some cash. $1100 new I'm selling for $700 o.n.o Will ship at buyers expense. PM or post up here!

get a cheap front mount kit, will do everything you need, and be a huge improvement over your SMIC. Greddy/HKS are bling and cool better in really high power applications, but at 4-5x the cost there is no point you getting one.

circa 300rwhp and a nice smooth power curve would suit me fine. How much sooner would boost come on that an atr43-g3? and cost for the SS-1?

what would be the cost of the SS-1, and what power figure would you expect on an rb20 @ 18-20psi?

Correct, they want only their authorised dealers to sell and tune the F-Con ECU's. Would personally rip it out, screw only being able to take it to one tuner

correct, i bought my N1 bar minus front lip the ducts are also a seperate part.

yeah you can still get them, my genuine N1 front bar arrived a few weeks ago. Decided not to get an OEM lip, going for a carbon one instead.

doh only just saw this. If still left will take the front lip, and n1 carbon vents, but expect they will be gone

yeah dont have the time or the tools or space to do it myself unfortunately

well yes, heres hoping. Dont really have much choice without putting it on a flatbed and towing it to a specialist given it will overheat driving any further than down the road!

not wobbly, interested to see the pump once it comes out. I'll be limping it to the mechanic to have the folllowing done: new water pump new alloy radiator new timing belt new thermostat flush block - the old coolant was filthy

it lost a lot of water out the overflow, i'd say about 4L is accurate. There was no coolant coming from anywhere but the overflow, but its now hard to test if this is the case as there is no coolant being pumped around the engine at all now.

no leaks, the car lost a lot of coolant out the overflow initially as it boiled. Filled up the rad with 4L, but it doesnt go anywhere And yes, dans old car

Thats pretty much exactly what i'd want, what turbo is this, and rb20 or rb25?

yeah well its not pumping water, and making a lot of noise, its quite possibly the original. also unsure if the 200,000km timing belt has been done too

the top radiator hose also feels empty, so nothing leaving the radiator, can only be the pump?

no idea when it was replaced, only had the car a couple of months. if its the thermostat, could the noise just be from the water pump cavitating (e.g. has no water to pump?), or would it run quietly?

i also remember that on the drive home the temp was up high, then dropped down to normal, then high again and stayed there. makes sense if the pump is fubar?

my 225,000km old RB20det overheated today. Limped it home and waited for it to cool down. Topped it up with 4L of coolant and noted that its making some more noise than usual. Is it the water pump that is on the back of the clutch fan, and has the bottom radiator hose going into it? It seems to be coming from there, and I noted that the aforementioned hose is empty (normally i'd expect it to be full of coolant and hence firm). thoughts?

any dyno can be fudged, just needs the right settings put in Dyno's are a tuning tool, you use it to tune and tell the difference for the same car on the same dyno, as even between ones of the same model there can be differences.

sean at allstar garage in malaga I wouldnt let Hyperdrive touch my car , lol. Everyone has different opinions, talk to everyone and go with who you are most comfortable with.