Lonewolf1983

have any dyno's of either of the above on an RB20?

looks good, keen for a 25/30 style turbo provided it gives similar results

there is also various compounds (same with most r-comps), so what one person sees on a tyre may not be the same tyre despite the same model #

how much was the turbo hi-flow and who did it? Interested to see how responsive it is

interested to see what comes of the street series, particularly if useful on an RB20

auto power steer in ossie park did my old pulsar one. was cheap, fast and worked a treat

i was im a similar postion, wanting tyres that would be ok on the street, and short laps at the track, but dont do a lot of KM's (weekend car only). ended up choosing the federal RS-R's, cheap and symmetrical so I can swap them to the other side when they camber wear.

shame about the plenum, thought it might have brought some benefits. I'm also keen to develop my RB20 rather than drop in an RB25, I agree that the 20 can make enough power/torque to overpower a RWD chassis, and they're tough! Your setup seemed quite responsive on that track video, I'm impressed for such a large turbo, making me reconsider going for something smaller like a gt25/30

im bored, so here is my old sr20ve pulsar

FYI, fastbrakes.com has just released AP racing caliper kits for Sub $2k. Could be worth an email to see if they do a kit for the USDM 240sx (which should bolt up to most skylines)

Agreed that most retailers will promote their own products as better than the competition. Hopper Stoppers likes to pull out the "ADR" card as they generally use OEM supplied calipers (PBR/Holden/Ford) to keep the costs of their kits down. Doesnt make them any good. I have never heard with there being an issue with legality over dust boots, and hard to see an engineer disagreeing with me. Its more so that they need to be checked and maintained more often than those with them. I know some brake experts arent a fan of some of the wilwood gear due to them exhibiting caliper flex compared to the more expensive AP/Alcon gear, but it depends what your doing with the car. If running a race car, or planning heavy heavy track use, then you should be spending more money on brakes such as these.

didnt intend to put people off with the lack of dust boots, I ran a set on my pulsar without issues for more than a year, inc track work. Just people need to be aware of the fact, and ensure things are well maintained and checked regularly.

Beware that a lot of the wilwoods dont come with dust boots for the pistons, so should be checked more regularly for dirt etc that could compromise the piston seals. I had a set of the cheaper Dynalite calipers on my old pulsar and they were fantastic (got away with the cheaper calipers due to lighter weight. Also check out what rotor replacement availability and costs are like too.

Ditto

Wayne wasnt even interested in buying the headers, nor did the OP say that they were definitely genuine.

Looks like the JJR ones not available anymore. Ordered some Yellow Jackets, at almost 1/2 the price of splitfires + double the warranty was a no brainer really. Will post up results once I get them in, hopefully fix my misfire (with new plugs)

if poster above wants the boss kit I will take the wheel... PM me to discuss

First dibs on the GTR front bar, how much and willing to ship?

Dont really want the clunkiness of a mechanical diff, but want traction through both tyres, is anyone using a quaife? And would this suit my r32? http://www.quaife.co.uk/catalogue/products/qdf7l

anyone else?

did you still have the front bar?

have the GTR front bar?

thanks.... Mines a decent brand (Kakimoto), so Id have thought that the fitment would be a bit higher than it is: There looks to be 10-20mm of room for it to go higher, i guess I can just get the hangers bent a little to make it sit higher?

is the front bar a genuine plastic Item? And willing to ship to WA?

no one has a pic of their exhaust?