Deza3000

Yeah I'd imagine it'd be a long wait either way. I've ordered obscure random parts in the past as well like rear diffuser dust card flaps, diffuser subframe stays etc..... took 6 months for Nissan to get it in. Some had Nismo stickers all over them, im assuming its part of Nismos heritage program.

Thanks mate. This helps, exactly what i wanted. I've just put in a order request for a set of new ones. Only 18 bucks per side.

Just wondering what this metal shield plate is called and if there is a part number? Been trying to find it but i dont know what to search.. Sits behind the rear passenger card. I've emailed some wreckers but havent gotten a response yet. Mine is missing from both sides.

No worries! Cheers. Yep I skipped step 2 and just loosed with the oil filter wrench, wasn't too keen on disconnecting the high pressure lines. I did loosen the brackets from the mount and had it dangling so i had a bit of clearance.

Hi All, Thought i'd post an official translated guide from Nissan on how to remove a Nitrogen Accumulator Cannister. A friend was kind enough to translate the official Japanese doco for me with no ambiguity. I've seen a few videos and articles of people spending days trying to remove it... We spent 10 minutes... Didnt even have to remove the Attesa assembly from the car.. All we used was an oil filter removal tool. Common mistake is people dont depressurise the Canister before removal resulting it to be almost impossible to remove - similar to a air tight jar of pickles. 1. Depressurising the hydraulic unit Must take pressure off from the hydraulic unit before removing the unit from a car body - Can be done by loosening front part of cannister (before the Hex bolt) (Refer to service technical information no. 1891 for more detailed instructions) 2. Removal of the hydraulic unit assembly from the car body Refer to the car service manual for the instructions. 3. Removal of the accumulator from the hydraulic unit Loosen the accumulator using a pipe wrench while holding the thread part with rags to prevent oil spillage. Undo slow by hands ensuring the accumulator unit is facing downwards so that no debris would fall into the assembly unit. 4. Threads preparation before installation Clean thoroughly to remove all excess glues left on the threads. 5. Installation of the accumulator unit Apply 1.5-2.0 threads length of thread locker (three-bond 1324 equivalent) to centre position of the threads on the accumulator. Apply "Nissan power steering fluid special" all over the O-ring. Fit the accumulator unit into the hydraulic unit by hand with full strength then tighten using a pipe wrench holding a head section of the unit with set torque of 39-41 Nm. (As reference it is equivalent to 8 degrees or 5mm on circumference. Refer to the diagram below) From top (Apply "three bond 1324" / Head section / O-ring) NB: If you scratch the surface of the unit, re-paint with anti-rust spray. 6. Disposal of the accumulator unit Follow the label instruction for proper disposal of the unit.

Yea much better than GT Sport. GT sport feels like a prologue in comparison to this. Online feels about the same though

With you driving, probably In my pants

10w-60 castrol edge or 15-50 Penrite HPR. Ticking is fine though, you arent pushing power or doing crazy track days. Even then, won't matter. Most likely will have around 180,000+ks on it.

Lifter noise. Shes fine.

@Berksgtr It'll get close to 400 rwkw or 380ish awkw on 98. T517 is rated closely to -5s. Unopened 26s have hit that target. It'll just be a tad laggy by todays standards. Will still be good. Gotta start somewhere! Congrats on the car

THANK YOU!!! Keen on the Link G4, those look like its some good results. @Dose Pipe Sutututu Yea i was looking at platinum pro, not Elite 2500. my mistake.

@Murray_Calavera Nah the car will be tuned by my workshop. They can tune all ECUs but prefer Motec and possibly Link over Haltech. @Unzipped Composites Yep so safety features aside, I wanted launch control, boost control via ECU, Variable Cam timing control (so bugger off the HKS Valcon controller), Flex sensor so i can do both 98 and e85, possible flat foot shifting (Not sure if this requires Drive by wire or if it simply cuts ignition). If Link or Haltech can do all that then great, but from what i can see it was only Motec could control the VCAM

Thanks man!! Yea I was recommended Motec from my tuner and spoke to a few customers from CRD who were also recommended Motec over Haltech which is why i was opting for that. Though now that i think about it, their builds are more track oriented (samsonas Gearbox, 3.2l drag builds etc...). But i agree, Haltech has come a longgg way, some of the forums are a little outdated, the features seem almost identical and has dominated the US market. Ill have to do some research, not keen on spending 5k+ if i dont have too. Would you recommend Link over Haltech? Ill have a look into that as well, some of the Evo guys have recommended this ECU to me. Have also looked into AEM, but they dont seem to have all the safety that Haltech/motec seemed to offer

Ohh yep for sure, i actually was about to write that in my response haha. It would have saved me 5 grand for sure. Would have built the motor since the pump would have to come out anyway, wouldnt have had to repair a damaged head.

Not a problem! Overhaul including block modifications for oil return etc... extended sump, nitto pump, billet crank, forged rods and pistons + the vcam came close to 24k AUD. I had to also repair the head and a few other items unfortunately Otherwise it would have been 18k for a fully built and tuned engine. The engine died due to split oil pump gear, lost oil pressure and seized the head within a minute. When we inspected the oil pump, there was significant burn marks which indicated there was oil starvation (which i assume may have been from the night before as i was chucking it in hair pins around arthurs seat). The car lost oil pressure on a dyno day the next day