Deza3000

#@scotty nm35 Yea evo 7s came in 9.8t, definitely been changed in your car. Theres a number of reasons, one of them being i have a lot of shaft play and a damaged compressor wheel, and the second reason is apparently the 10.5t spools 300rpms earlier as well as giving a stronger top end, good until 250awkw. Hence why i was looking at the 10.5ts. I came across an evo 6 turbo which was 10.5t, very keen on buying it but not sure if they are equal to an evo 9 or evo8MR 10.5t, or if its just the exact same.

Tried asking on yahoo answers, but they were useless ==' My evo 7 turbo is a 9.0t turbo where as the evo 6, 8MR and 9 have 10.5Tturbos, so was thinking about upgrading from evo 7 to a evo 6 turbo. However im wondering what the difference between the evo 6 and evo 9 turbo would be? They are both the exact same in terms of specs, but i cant seem to find any detailed description online There must be a reason why mitsubishi used a 9.8t hotside on the evo 7/8 as oppose to the 10.5 found on the evo 6 rs? Evo 6 turbos are marginally cheaper than 8mr and 9 turbos too. Id ask on the evolutions forums, but they are so hard to navigate through, and most of them are from the US and dont own evo 6/7 since they were illegal over there. Cheers guys.

omg, whered you find that?! Thanks heaps, helped a lot!

Just wondering what the gap BETWEEN the grill (where the mitsubishi badgeis located) and intercooler are called on the evos 7, 8, 9, i want to buy a replacement piece for it but dont know what to ask for haha. I thought its called a front bumper air duct or air vent, but it doesnt seem to show up with what i want on google. Thanks in advance.

#@75coupe Cheers man, thats what i was thinking of doing too, perfect for the track! (:

# Ahhh makes sense, my mistake, Ive seen a similar setup before in a r33, dynoed at 140rwkw, Keen to see the results in the r34, wonder if the neo engine will be any different.

Yea i gave the chamfered/sanded ones a week because i could hear a different frequency of squeal, which from past experiences resulted in the frequency getting worse and worse. But with these pads, there was no noise at all I did a few hard brakes, went to a industrial are and did a few u turns and different styles of braking to get the brakes to squeal and no noise! Did some light braking, heavy braking, braking in car parks, braking with the steering wheel in full lock, steering wheel in half lock etc...., and no noise at all, not even at the slightest. Where as last week, even though the pads were sanded, i still had some level of squeel ( @ < 10kph) which i was willing to live with, until it got back to its horrible form like it did last night (@ < 50kph x 1000000 decibles) Pads are rather spongy though. Perfect for my daily drives though.

I thought headers and extractors are the same thing?

Squeal came back, so just went and bought some soft compound pads, worked like a charm, no more squeal. Only bad thing is, they dont stop as good as my other pads haha ): Thanks for all the help and advice guys, really appreciate it

#@75coupe Ahh i see what you mean, yea true, it didnt squeal at all today, i was doing some pretty hard braking as well, maybe the new shims created a heat barrier, not sure how likely. But yea, im surprised i havent gotten any squeal for nearly a week I just dont have that satisfying peace of mind that the squeal will never come back haha. #@mistermeena Yea bit of squeak A1RMs are normal from what ive heard, they're proper track 700 degree pads, mine are like 550ish (both the QFM HPX and Hawks ceramic which are lesser performing pad), and were still squealing at the time, must be some silly evo curse.

#@75coupe Backs are fine, its just the fronts. Already chamfered, but yea doesnt seem to squeal at the moment, but when it did squeal, all 4 pads squeal creating this horrible echoing.. I thought it might be the pistons movements or pressure, but when the pads were new, they didnt squeal, if it was the problems you suggested wouldnt it be squealing no matter what? Yea those pads are even harsher than what i have on, yet they still squeal haha. And yes it is on the evo! haha, I think its just a common evo thing, ive seen a few evo 7s and a evo 9 squeal in my suburb, im starting to think they're suppose to squeal. Looked on the evo forum and most of the people there say even their brand new evo 10s brembos squeal. That being said, the place where i get my car serviced specialise in evos, gtrs, stis and anything with brembos, they said it isnt normal and that their evos dont squeal. They suggested that it could be because im probably riding the brakes when slowing down rather than braking the way brembos were designed to do, causing the pads to glaze. So yea im stumped haha. It stopped squealing for now, when it returns ill get a softer pad or invest in a shim and pin kit. Brake fluids all flushed and bled with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid (: #@89CAL Yea i had QFMs on my old R33, they never squealed, the r34 has 4 piston nissan calipers and they dont squeal either, it must be a brembo thing, smallest things in these brakes causes horrible squeal ==' If something as small as the pin has a little bit of debris you get horrible squeal haha.

the amps probably reaching its full cycle man, id invest in a monoblock for the sub later on when you have the cash, and just run the speakers off the current amp. I sold my amp to a bloke who burnt out two 600watt max 4 channel amps powering 2 subs,they lasted a year but still, im assuming you want it to last for 3-4 years .

Put the spoiler back on, should add weight and not pop open, or install those gas shock thingos the r34s have

Umm viper is a pretty good off the shelf alarm system, comes with imobiliser, actuators, remote keyless entry, boot release and all that jazz, around 300 bucks, should be sweet

#@Captain Natro LS1s are too cool for boost gauges.

Update: Been roughly 5 days since i sanded the pads, applied the copper gasket silicone, applied shims, lubed all contact points and sanded with 120grit sand paper, still no squeal which is a good sign for a temporary fix, only time it squealed was braking when my wheel was in a turn position or when it was driven for a long period of time (roughly an hours worth of driving) in which case the rotors warmed up and the pads squealed. Even then, the squeal was very very short, like half a second long, something i can live with. The best solution to get rid of the squeal all together would be to do what all you guys originally suggested and buy bendix or a equivalent softer general use pad. Will update again once the squeal returns to its unbearable stage, in which case ill switch the bendix. Thanks for all the help guys #@Dobz Yea man basically it, pretty much confirmed its the pads now. Cheers for the help. Ill get the bendix general CT as suggested (:

Haha dont bother man there is nothing to monitor. Theres no purpose, so why put it? You're gonna have to explain to every person that hops in your car why you installed a boost gauge in a n/a You could hook it up to the vacuum line as suggested, but its a boost gauge which reads positive pressure, vacuum is the negative boost pressure. Unless you plan on running nitrous oxide, its completely pointless. Just sell it and buy some petrol (:

#@Dobz Hey man, umm brake performance is awesome, high speed and hard stops are pretty damn good. As for the squeal, its weird, usually when i brake hard the squeal does reduce, but thats only when the rotors are still at either a normal or cold temperature. When the rotor gets hot, it becomes insanely loud, and no matter how hard i press the brakes, the last 40kph(or 60) to 0 kph squeals like crazy. I think its basically all 4 pads which squeal once the rotors are too hot. Rotors are getting hot no matter how i drive lol. Basically the hotter the brakes, the louder the squeal, but performance still remains the same. At the moment its only squealing a tiny bit after sanding but its starting to build up again, this time tomorrow it will be back to the annoying harsh squeals.

#@Dobz Yep rotors already slotted #@75coupe Hey man, yea still waiting on the project mu shims, I did however confirm why the noise is appearing. The pads are glazed, so i roughened them up with 120grit sand paper, and the noise went away, but its slowly starting to come back, i can just sense it cause it did that the last time. So ill give the shims a go, if not im chucking on a completely different compound. Also, i inspected my old QFM pads and new Hawks ceramics pads, side by side, noticed that the surface, texture, material, shine etc... looked EXACTLY the same, which is basically indicating the store chucked on the exact same compound as before ==; So chances are very high that soft bendix pads or the project mu shims for track pads will solve the problem.

Hey guys just an update: - Tried the new shims - tried the silicone between shims and pads - tried spraying anti squeal behind the pads and shims - tried sanding and chamfering - tried roughening the rotors - cleaned all pins and brackets again - cleaned caliper pisons Still no luck Still yet to try - another set of pads (benedix or OEM brembo) - Cleaning with a wire brush, - caliper adjustment - If these dont work then ill take it to my service center and tell them to figure it out and will report back Cheers for the help. (:

Just ordered these shims from the project MU site, will see how they go. Cheers

Ill try a softer compound, im starting to think the new compound used was exactly the same as my old pads. Ill try benedix or oem brembos with another set of shims as suggested, project mu does look pretty appealing based on a quick google search, If they still squeal then ill look into faulty calipers and possible overhauling. Might just end up getting another set of calipers if its the case. Genuine parts mitsubishi sell all the evo bits surprisingly, bought a few things from there so might go there as a last resort. But yea im convinced its just aggresive pads, feels like metal on metal, ill see what i can do over the weekend. Thanks for the tips.

#@GTRPSI Even the softer compound benedix pads? I was told to bed them in again when they start squealing so they roughen the rotors, worked the first time but didnt work the second so guess they are glazed ==; the way they identified it was, with my old rotors, the noise at the time was only occuring on the driver side, so basically they just swapped the components from the drivers side to the passenger, then finally they swapped the rotors and the noise moved along with it. So when i bought the new ones, the noise did go away, however you could still hear a light braking noise, you could tell it was trying its best to become louder. Then yea became louder, i got the pads changed and disc machined, went away after that and came back 1 week later. Asked a the shop whats going on, they said the pads need a rougher surface so told me to bed them in again, and only lasted a week. Yea both sets of pads are already chamfered, still occurs. Copper grease was applied at all contact points. Still yet to try the silicone thing behind the shims. Yea the pads i have now are ceramic too, just not ebc. They also state that it has some sort of dampening or built in shims to keep them quiet, not too sure what the technical term was. I was also guaranteed that hawks pads wont have any noise by the service centers, as most of their GTRs, evos, wrxs, s2000s all use the same pads, they could be lieing I wouldnt mind excessive dust, my wheels to get dusty regardless cause of melbourne weather. But yea im thinking of going for a entry level toyota echo type compound, some thing soft that doesnt need to be warmed up. Just so over it, noise>performance. Ill go see the work shop again, see what they say and if they can do something for free considering i was guaranteed no noise after spending 400 dollars. I asked him 3 times "wil there be any noise". He said no. Anywyas Cheers man, ill look into ebc red stuff and benedix, wont mind a bit of dust or rotor chewing to get rid of that disgusting noise. I drive 15,000ks per year so going through rotors 1 and a half years aint so bad.

I was under the impression that its all just one big problem? #@crissy Did these arise all at the same time? Or did the car just start having more and more problems? If its the second question then id go with what sleptema suggested.

General rule of thumb is everything is illegal When you say "remove it" do you mean cut the middle part of the seat out? Or remove the whole rear seats? If youre removing the rear seats, yea he can dick ya for it, otherwise; if its blended in properly, the cop shouldnt mind, it isnt something that cops generally look for when trying to defect a car, unless hes having a bad day