Deza3000

I cant find a direct answer anywhere, trying to find out if going from probationary to full liscence, whether your points reset or just gain extra points. So for e.g. if i lost 3 on my green Ps and left with 2, will i reset to 12 on my fulls or will i just bump up to 9?

Why dont you go carbon fibre? They look pretty sexy regardless of what cams you run If youre keen though, you could get a clear cam cover for rb26, but you'd need to change the back plate as well and a whole bunch of other stuff. You also need to make sure you have clearance for the VCT. Requires some trimming.

Been shopping around asking quotes to fit a rear bumper on my evo. Bumper is brand new/primed and should be sprayed navy blue, and diffuser sprayed black. I got quotes for $450 and $550 so far.. Does that sound about right for a rear bumper? Because im spraying 2 different colours i thought its pretty fair, but in case im wrong just wanted to make sure. Looked around the forum and saw people getting quotes between 200-400, so just got me thinking. I havent really got body work done before so want to make sure im making the right choices. Cheers in advance

For 300hp at the fly; even a VE SIDI sv6 commie will do. Close to 300hp from factory, wooo.

300hp is equal to 220kw, something which not even a stock r34 gt-turbo makes. Anyways that being said, If you are keen on dishing out 5k+ some guy posted on youtube of his n/a r33. Got 140rwkw out of a N/a, which equates to around 200hp at the wheels. Initially it was making 92rwkw, so considering its 140kw at the fly from facotry it should be: 140-96= 44kw. 140+44 = 184kw at the fly which is 250hp once modded. So if you spend 5k you can get 250hp, not impossible He lists his mods in the description:

Stock turbo cat back exhaust that is!

Turbos, turbos make things interesting. But seriously, engine dress up on a N/A car is pretty much rice, no point. Just clean it up, make them rockers nice and shiny to increase resale value, resulting in more cash for when you do get to choo choo

Actually it tries to reduce backpressure even when the valve is closed, which is what made the xforce unqiue. It opens up another hole around the walls of the canon, in which exhuast gasses escape, its still not as good as a fully opened valve, but does the job. This should explain very well

Just get a adjustable 15 dollar silencer off ebay. Did the job for me back in the N/A days Or if you want the more expensive option, a middle muffler.

Rb25det from a stagea is your best, cheapest and safest bet man. Its been done before as well, im sure there are some guides out there.

Hmm 2jz on a AWD drivetrain. Not gonna work well, gonna be dumping a load of cash. If you love the r34 so much you probably wouldnt be wanting to sabotage that nissan integrity witha 2jz. Probably better off finding a stagea with a rb25det, and doing a swap. If i were you, id probably just go r34 GTR, its not over the top powerful from factory (320hp?), In fact its actually average for a turbo charged car, it just known to have huge potential for power with minor mods/cost.

My mistake, i misread, and didnt know you were referring to shocks when you said B6s. Yea id probably go with your setup, but probably with tein springs.

"provided they dont bottom out and do their jobs on the streets" "assuming its for a cosmetic look without the compromise of handling/comfort" I thought i implied that it still needed to do their job on the streets. It doesnt have to be over the top expensive is what im trying to say, even 2k is pushing it. Second hand HKS could even be considered cheap. And im pretty sure you and i both know that King springs on stock shocks is a pretty stupid idea, any set of coilovers would do a better job than factory worn out shocks on cheap king springs.

Id probably go with tein, pretty decent for their price. Then again, i dont think it will matter when it comes to N/A skylines. You wont be having a huge amount of power to push high end coilovers to their limit, nor do i think you will be doing track days with a n/a. Id probably just go with cheapy coilovers, provided they dont bottom out and that they do their jobs on the streets, which is basically all you need (im also guessing its more of a cosmetic mod without the compromise of handling/comfort). And good on ya for not dumping them on king springs, at least someone does something right.

Generally +35 offset will fit on brembos, Had the same issue with my evo. But as stated above, retarded spoke designs could mean otherwise

Has the transmission ever been serviced? Transmission fluid flushed out ? Youre suppose to change these fluids every 20,000 - 30,000kms, people never do it though =='

haha ease up on the guy, he said he was new to the forum =p Anyways man, as everyone else stated there really is no point. Unless you end up finding parts for dirt cheap, and by dirt cheap i mean exhaust systems for 70 bucks, i wouldnt bother spending money on it. N/a skylines are as fast as its gonna get without spending 2k on 5hp mods. Only option would be to rice it up, coliovers, slotted brakes, big ass 18s rays, sticky tyres. Which would be a huge waste of money. Being an ex N/a skyline owner i know the feeling of wanting to mod your car with the dream of being the fastest n/a(exaggeration), but it doesnt really turn out that way. keep it stock man and enjoy the car, save up and buy a turbo in the future. Look at it this way, 2k spent on a n/a, you get 10-15hp max, on the other hand a 770 dollar custom ecu tune (98 octane fuel) on my stock evo alone gets me 40AWKW gain.

Based on past experience with my brothers n/a r34 tip tronic, it ended up being somethign wrong with the fuel pressure/fuel lines. (either fuel pump, fuel filter, or blocked injectors). Basically the car wouldnt rev above 5000revs in tip tronic (and neutral), it would simply just struggle. I cant describe the sound in words, but ill give it a shot. Sounded like feathering the throttle in 2nd gear going 100ks per hour, even though the foot was to the floor. Anyways that being said, it was fixed by the mechanic, he did something fuel related, i have no clue what though. He also reset the ecu (unplug the battery). Note: he also had tip tronic dash lights flashing etc....but it never ended up being his transmission. It could virtually be anything, so its hard to narrow down. R34s show weird lights for a reason which isnt even related to that particular component of the car. Hopefully i helped ya man, sounds frustrating =(

depends how much you are getting the strut brace for =p If you are getting one for like 70 bucks second hand, then yea probably worth it. If its 250+ i wouldnt even bother, especially with factory suspension. rather save the money and spend it on coilovers. And yes strut braces do fit AWDs, all the GTRS come with strut brace from facotry =p

Could be the fuel pump? or dirty fuel filter? Does it also happen when you rev on neutral?

cheers man, yea they are great rotors!

Yes i did, looks great as well.

For those who are still interested, i just installed some slotted rotors today, and the noise completly disappeared. Pads simply did not like the oem rotors. Hopefully this helps! Cheers for all your input guys.

Pfr5g11 are already gapped as well, so you wont have to worry about that =p

PFR5G11 NGK platinum is what i used on my old Rb25de, had better fuel economy as well as much better idle. Also cleaned out the coil packs and vaccumed the debris left over from the previous plugs before installing the new ones