Deza3000

You reckon i should just remove the whole parcel shelf, brackets and everything to identify the rattle?

LOL yea that sounds about right =p

Cheers for the quick responses guys

Just came from a drive, the noise sounds like when you bounce a basketball 5 cm off the ground very fast. The rattle persists for 1-2 seconds on every bump.I ran over a small stick and it rattled like a bitch.

My whole suspension setup is stock, stock shocks, stock springs, everything stock. Car's only run 79,000ks. Was planning on lowering it on low king (or tein) springs 30mm drop. Do you mean the wheel bearings or is there another bearing i dont know about?? cause i just had that checked while i got new brakes done.

You sure about that, ive opened the valve manually before, the note does sound much deeper but from what ive seen, in any butterfly exhaust when the valve opens up it does give a bit more performance in the higher rpm. Lower rpm the valve remains closed to increase velocity (quicker flow rate for the exhaust gases to escape) since theirs limited exhaust pulses being released, http://www.gomog.com...ckpressure.html The link explained everything pretty well. It also indirectly explains why straight pipes are silly.

Im looking into whiteline bushes, apparently they are far more superior than factory. Or might just go with pedders

Already took out the seats and checked bolts on the parcel shelf, Its more of a mechanical sound so ive narrowed it down to a component in the suspension itself. Ill check the bushes now, but theres like 50 bushes ==' Could be anything. How much would it cost to change the bushes? My front sway bar and shock absorber bushes are worn out too. Do i need to change all the bushes?? or just the ones that are worn out?

Getting this weird rattling noise every time i go on a bump, even the smallest bump or a slight dip in the road causes this irritating rattle. The best way i can describe the sound is like a piece of hollow plastic pipe tapping against metal. I already tried emptying the boot (removing jack, spare tire, rear seats, tied up all cables etc) and trying to identify the source of the noise. It sounds like its the suspension but i dont know what part of the suspension it could be. Is it the bushings? Or has something just come loose like the shocks? Its going to be a pain in the ass if i have to remove the damn parcel shaft to get to the rear shocks ==' All i want right now is to know where the noise is coming from, driving me nuts. I also tried pushing some weight on and off the car while its stationary to see if the noise appeared but i couldnt hear anything, its only while driving. Already checked the passenger side drive shaft. Also i had the k-frame replaced 5 months ago, but the noise existed prior to the replacement of the kframe. Cheers in advance for the responses =)

Judging by your wuts, ive still got it wrong? Im just repeating what i read on a few articles lol. 1. my car does have a butterfly exhaust from factory, theres a valve on the right tip which opens under full throttle, it came factory from nissan. My mates r33 has it as well. Ill take a picture and show you if you want. That canon i used to have was from 2 years ago when all i wanted was noise but then realized it looked stupid and i lost a tonne of power so i chucked it out. 2. The article i read was explaining the dynamics of an exhaust system, it explained how in a straight pipe exhaust, the gases escaping the chamber tend to cool down as the travel through the exhaust pipe causing, the cold exhausts travels at a slower rate than warmer exhausts. I just repeated what it said. Which is probably why expensive exhausts are made of titanium, better conductors of heat. 3, With wider pipes, (im talking like 4inch all the way down) also moves exhaust gases at a slower rate, he used a metaphor describing how water comes out through a hose, a bigger wider hose causes the water to be released slowly while a more smaller hose releases water at a much quicker rate, Its the same principal with exhaust gases. So a straight pipe all the way down wont really perform as well as a proper exhaust. Hypothetically why else would you pay thousands of dollars for a exhaust system if a straight pipe does the exact same thing. this is my understanding on what ive read about, however you seem to know better so maybe you'd care to explain. Btw cheers for making me feel like an idiot =)

Mighty car mods did a tutorial on this, they explained it pretty well. http://www.youtube.com/channel/SW3iw_LsMJ9BE

Yep i agree with you. Up until this morning i thought back pressure was a necessity in non turbo cars, turns out its actually velocity, since its velocity which helps the exhaust gases escape quicker(and some other dynamics of exhaust flow).

LOL just looked at my exhaust and noticed that my car had a butterfly exhaust from factory, hence why i lost power when i put that canon ==' Also did some research and found out that velocity as well as a warm exhaust increase flow and reduces back pressure, thats why proper exhaust systems produces more power than straight pipes. wider pipes = less velocity which = more time for the exhaust gases to escape. Had it wrong this whole time. Made my self look like an idiot across 5 different forums ==' Can anyone tell me if what i just said is true =p

" to reduce turbo lag and increase efficiency, extractor and exhaust is necessary" You basically repeated what i said using different words in regards to turbo'd motors. You need to calm down man, honest mistake jeeze.

Haha i already said back pressure is bad in turbo'd cars hence why aftermarket exhausts were more ideal, i never said turbod cars needed back pressure lol. Also if you saw my next post you would notice i retracted my statement and agreed that exhaust systems actually do make a difference on n/a cars. Also my cousin is a pretty good driver, it has great take off but there literally is no top end power, the car struggles probably due to the fact that his ecu wasnt utilizing the full extent of his new exhaust. Hence why i suggested getting an ecu remap after the system was put in. I was speaking on behalf of experience.

Sorry what i said was slightly wrong, if you plan on remapping your ecu after instaling an exhuast system and extractors, it will indeed improve performance throughout the rev range since the factory settings are tuned for the factory exhaust, hence why it relys on the backpressure created from factory.

LOL did i say something wrong?? =[ I thought N/a cars rely on backpressure for better throttle response and more low end torque? Cause the car is manufactured to run with the back pressure created by the factory exhaust?

LMAO, haha i find that hard to believe? they are painted to my colour already anyways =p

Dont bother man, extractors and exhaust on N/a's (especially n/a skylines) dont really do anything. If anything it loses performance, you dont want that. I actually raced one of my cousins n/a r34 who has a full custom exhaust system, absolutly chopped him when i hit 2nd gear, car just pulls away like he aint even throttling, and i drive a freakin auto. Reason being is all the top end power just disappears man, exhaust systems reduce back pressure. no back pressure = no torque. N/as rely on backpressure while Turbo'd cars create backpressure from the turbo itself, therefore to reduce turbo lag and increase efficiency, extractor and exhaust is necessary. In other words, exhaust and extractors was primarily intended for turbos =p

Only thing i can think of other than the ones listed is dodgy spark plugs.

ahahah cheers guys, i made the mistake of buying the wrong part before, didnt want to make the same mistake again. =p

As the name suggest, wondering if the r33 series 1 gtst sideskirts fit series 2 non turbo, i tried googling it but all it came up with is gtst sideskirts on gtr etc. Cheers

Dont bother man, if youre talking about tips such as removing the muffler and chucking on a canon, its pretty much all show no go. I learnt the hard way, got a canon tip for 90 bucks, chucked it on my N/A r33 and lost 50% of my low end power since there was no more back pressure. I then changed back to my factory muffler. Full exhaust would be the way to go if you want a bit of noise/look without lose of power, but even then its not much of a power increase for the price you pay. However if you meant tips as in muffler tips, im sure dande exhausts (melbourne) would do that for ya no problem, would charge you for the part and labour, should be 150ish. If i were you i would just leave it, the factory tips looks pretty decent as well, more stealthy.

Haha thats true mate, yea i actually found a few searches regarding this very question, still pretty stupid question. Not even a turbo haha. And yea i see alot of those questions as well, i actually had a canon tip on my car when i first got my Ps in 2010, removed it and bolted on the factory muffler 3 months later when i actually understood more about cars. All i did by chucking on a canon was eliminate back pressure, and make it droney as fk. Lost so much torque, extractors and exhausts are next to useless on non turbo rb25s, people need to understand that. Ive actually beaten a few skylines with full custom exhausts, even r34s, its just rubbish, no point. Just loses back pressure and makes noise. At the end of the day, so glad my knowledge of cars has improve by x10. =p Sucha stupid post haha.

Just saw this post i made few months back, i actually cant believe i asked this question.