Deza3000

Dont bother man, if youre talking about tips such as removing the muffler and chucking on a canon, its pretty much all show no go. I learnt the hard way, got a canon tip for 90 bucks, chucked it on my N/A r33 and lost 50% of my low end power since there was no more back pressure. I then changed back to my factory muffler. Full exhaust would be the way to go if you want a bit of noise/look without lose of power, but even then its not much of a power increase for the price you pay. However if you meant tips as in muffler tips, im sure dande exhausts (melbourne) would do that for ya no problem, would charge you for the part and labour, should be 150ish. If i were you i would just leave it, the factory tips looks pretty decent as well, more stealthy.

Haha thats true mate, yea i actually found a few searches regarding this very question, still pretty stupid question. Not even a turbo haha. And yea i see alot of those questions as well, i actually had a canon tip on my car when i first got my Ps in 2010, removed it and bolted on the factory muffler 3 months later when i actually understood more about cars. All i did by chucking on a canon was eliminate back pressure, and make it droney as fk. Lost so much torque, extractors and exhausts are next to useless on non turbo rb25s, people need to understand that. Ive actually beaten a few skylines with full custom exhausts, even r34s, its just rubbish, no point. Just loses back pressure and makes noise. At the end of the day, so glad my knowledge of cars has improve by x10. =p Sucha stupid post haha.

Just saw this post i made few months back, i actually cant believe i asked this question.

Haha yep thats the one, yea i was thinking the same thing, my hoods suffered some paint damage which cant be restored, might as well just get them both done.

Planning on buying some rear bumper spats (or bumper addons, whatever they are called) for my r33, was just wondering how much it would cost to get them resprayed. They arent very big items, probs the area of about 10 iphones for both sides if that. I was planning on doing it myself, but after i did my spoiler, i vowed never to spray another body panel again since it came out absolute garbage and had no clue what i was doing, even though i watched like 50 you tube videos on how to paint a spoiler. I'm based around melbourne, if that helps. Cheers.

Yea i agree with you there, got the rotors returned, i couldnt use any other disc manufacturer as a reference, cause they all required me to own a business and register or some shit. Anyways i got a refund which im happy with, im just going to get my current rotors machined as suggested, now i got 300 dollars to spare, might just do a service or something. Cheers for the help.

Alright will do, Still dont understand why their database gave me wrong rotors ==' Anyways cheers mate.

Cheers mate, ill go for the benedix then! =) Im pretty sure they are similar to ferodo pads as well, anyways got another dilemna, this one really pissed me off, turns out the rotors i bought was for turbo charged skylines (or n/a skylines with 5 studs), so they require 5 studs while my car supports 4. Is it possible to drill 4 different holes so the rotors will fit?? Its so stupid cause i purchased the rotors according to dba's database which says that the r33 gtst has the same rotor as the r33 gts25 (dba 4000 series). After doing a bit of research turns out the gts25 uses 280mm rotors as opposed to the 296mm found on gtst. You reckon if i get the rotors drilled it will work with my calipers? Cheers

I see, yea i highly doubt i cooked the crap out of them so yea its too late since i already ordered the rotors. But im still unsure of what pads to get, im actually confused since my car is a non turbo so i dont know which pads would fit, all i keep finding is benedix general use pads, theres no higher performing pads anywhere unless i pay retail at the mechanic which is insanely high price. From my knowledge r33 non turbo 1996 has single piston caliper? am i correct? If i do choose to go with standard brake pads, how will they perform under heavy driving/braking compared to the more expensive pads, do they just get shredded easier or do they melt?

I was planning on getting them machined however its been around 10000+ks since the vibration started and its only gotten worse, im pretty sure its warped since this started the day ive been braking at 100ks+. Ive already purchased 4 slotted rotors but still thinking of what pads i should get. I heard ebc make good brake pads but i feel they might be overkill since i dont take the car to the track. Just an update, i jacked up my car and spun the front left wheel and i hear this scraping noise, it appears during the 1st quarter of the rotation (in other words the noise isnt present during the full rotation). It sounds like a grinding noise and its present on both sides of the wheels, drivers side sounding slightly more harsh. However when i pull the wheel towards me and turn it, the noise disappears. Could this be the bearings? or just the warped brakes scrapping across the side. If it is the bearings, whats the consequence of changing them at a later date? Cheers for the quick responses, and i will be sure to check the tie rods and bushes, ill get my mechanic to check them as well. So far i regret not changing the brakes sooner.

Finally someone understands my point of view, thats exactly what im trying to say! =) Rolling up to school in a nissan skyline turns a few heads regardless of being turbo or not, partially the reason of owning one, i waited 2 years to get my liscence, i dont want to wait another 4 years till im 22 to get my full licence to cruise in a turbod skyline, i want the experience now! ;p And yes thats great advice! Dont sell the car here, sell it on carsales, you will definetly sell that for 13k. +1 on that.

lol i just provided evidence and spoke from personal experience, if youre that fked in the head that you cant understand what im trying to say then you are an idiot. If it annoys you so much then do bother replying, leave the forum, Everyones free to give their opinions,youre an asshole for telling people what they should be doing. Im just stating the facts the way i see it, and people who do want to purchase skylines are mostly p platers, most full liscence drivers have settled down to a family car. Word of advice, have an open mind and see my point of view, i understand turbo is obviously better and it has more sportier features (sports suspension) etc, but once again non turbo cars have a higher market than turbos! I know this because ive spoken to dealerships (dandenong plunket road, melbourne) and i myself wanted a non turbo car to drive on my P's. You have a turbo car judging by your picture so you dont understand. This guy is selling his car for an average price. Its pretty clear you didnt even see the links ive posted. Also have you seen many p plate drivers lately? They drive new sv6s, VZ/VEs, ba/bf xr6s, honda preludes vtec, etc, most of these go for 15k+. Some even drive 07 audis, mercs, bmers, i know a few people who go on loans just to get a high priced car on their Ps, so dont tell me that people who buy skylines arent going to spend their turbo car money, cause they can get the same amount for their car when its time to sell, they just buy a turbo straight after. Most p platers are immature and live in the moment. Very few p platers think ahead. And fyi i actually was helping this guy sell his car by giving my opinion on why the price was so high in their eyes, youre the shit head who tried to contradict what im saying and have a go at me, prolonging this useless conversation, believe what you want. This guys car is worth 13k no doubt. End of story

Thats exactly it mate, agree with you 100%.

Hey guys, as the name suggests i was wondering what are the negatives on driving with warped rotors. My rotors have been pretty bad for a while, and didnt get them replaced since i was either tight on cash or simply didnt have the time to get them fixed as i needed the car for university. The skyline vibrates like crazy when braking from around 100ks +, and has moderate irretating vibrations under normal driving. Its clear the rotors are fked and i already know that braking has been tremendously compromised, but what i want to know is, are there any other factors that need to be looked at once i do replace the rotors. For e.g. would wheel bearings need to be checked? etc.. Also ive decided to get slotted rotors to avoid having this problem again but was wondering what pads i should use. Are pads the main cause of warped rotors? I realise some pads are harsh on rotors and wear them out quicker, but as long at they dont get warped and provide smooth braking every time then im willing to sacrifice durability for performance. I just hate when the rotors get warped. So yea any help will be most appreciated! Cheers

Haha oh my bad, i meant r33 gtst series 1 going for 4k etc.. But yea youre right in saying auto turbos have a smaller market. But im not saying turbo charged cars are worthless, im saying non turbo cars still hold value, some being worth higher than other turbo charged ones. Theres an r34 auto 25gt going for 17,500 with double the ks listed on this guys post. So yea i was just trynna make a point to all the others that the price his selling it for is pretty average and he shouldnt rellly have to go lower. I was just defending him. Also i just checked the manuals, they seem to be cheaper than the autos, both turbod and non turbo. I just contradicted what i said in regards to higher market for manual turbo. http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/results.aspx?base=1216&eapi=2&silo=stock&sort=~Price&vlist=b&N=1246+1247+1252+1282+4294963846+4294963593+1216+1622&vertical=Car&Range=Year:1996,Max But still it supports my other statement that non turbo cars still hold market value, its all there. Edit: Also the 7500 dollar 25gt you said was a 4door, not a coupe 2 door, they always have a lower market value, a nomral auto 25gt coupe starts from 10k not 7.5.

lol thats not what i meant, ive actually spoken to a few dealerships as well as doing some research, non turbo skylines have a higher market value than the single turbo'd skylines. Go onto carsales and youll see r33 gtst, r34 gtt etc going from 4k to 17k while the non turbos start off from 7k+. R34 even more. It goes by market value and how rare the cars (as well as car class, durability, reliabilty) are not how powerful the car is, Gtst and gtt is common, and theres no market for them, atleast not as big at the p plate market. And people who do buy turbo'd skylines usually go for GTR. GTR is pretty rare here now and is in a completely different class, dealerships have even stopped importing them unless specially requested, im not making shit up, ive actually done my research before buying a skyline myself. Im talking from personal experience because i myself struggled to find a cheap non turbo, all i found was turbod in my price range, non turbos were pretty pricey. So yea no need to have a go at me, if you think im wrong give me a valid reason. Edit: Heres a link to prove my point, all the non turbo skylines in australia starting from 1996, keep in mind these cars have high ks, and some of them are evn 4 doors which have a lower market. http://www.carsales.com.au/car/brand%20new/dealer/demo/private/NISSAN/SKYLINE?base=1216&vertical=Car&page=1&eapi=2&N=4294680595&silo=Stock&Range=Year:1996,Max&sort=~Price Compared to the cars listed on carsales, this guys car is the perfect price. Go and compare it to a turbo'd car and youll see what i mean. Think ive made my point.

The cars sick bro, low ks, full exhaust, rare colour, half these people dont know shit man, non turbo cars have a much higher market value than turbo charged ones. Simply because these new laws shifted the price difference, 70% of people who want a turbo skyline are all p platers, obviously they wont buy it so they get the next best thing. And ive seen p platers spending 25k+ on new cars, taking out loans etc, If you see skylines on car sales, they go for about 14k+ non turbo. This is pretty decent.

If holding the key for an extra second doesnt work then try increasing the idle located on the aac valve.

Cheers mate just my 2 cents

Anyways for anyone who does visit this forum, we just turn the key for an extra second while starting up in the morning and it solves the start up problem, however we just dont know what the problem is although we found the cure.

Ohhh right my bad, i get ya, sorry i dont use these forums much until recently. Thought the person who started the topic is in control of it.

R33 series 1 gts/t = ugly R33 GTR + series 2 gts/t = sexy shizz R34 = fkin sexy I personally think the r33's reputation of its looks was horrible because of the series 1 gts/t's, Other than that all the other r33s look fine to me. Matter of taste and opinion. In the end, you own a freakin skyline and thats pretty decent no matter what model it is. if anything im sick of those kents in their commys and falcons thinking their rides are all that, when infact its just an over powered tractor. I mean seriously we should be discussing why people think their commodores are so great, i mean who doesnt own one of them =='

Ive spent the past half hour trynna mark this thread as important but i cant seem to find how to do that =='

Ohhh right my bad, will do!

sorry mate you lost me, no clue what a moderator sticky is =p