Deza3000

So it worked for you too aye? Well i guess its good news we found the cure, but i dont understand why it needs that extra second. Atleast i wont have the dodgy start ups anymore. And i guess that aac valve didnt really do much in the end. Only way the aac valve would help the start up problem was if you increased the idle speed, which was getting rather annoying, hence why i returned it back to normal and done this little experiment ;p. Glad it worked your you as well!

Just an update, ive done a little experiment, i returned the throttle to its original position on the aac valve and turned on the car, but this time what i did was i turned the key for a fraction of a second longer than usual, and the car started up perfectly. Basically just hold the key in the ignition position for 0.5 to 1 second longer and it should start up normal. My theory is, the spark isnt fully igniting the fuel because the battery dies over night explaining why it happens every morning, resulting in the car to struggle on what little spark it was given to start up the motor. This is just my theory, but you guys should give it a shot, turn it on for a fraction of a second longer. Hope it works!

It must be the cold start valve under the plenum, from what ive seen around the skyline forums a lot of people are having this problem, how ever there still hasn't been 100% guaranteed solution to why it has been happening. No one really had bothered to clean the cold start valve under the plenum. A few people with turbo'd skyilnes cold start problems were due to aftermarket bovs etc...I dont think it would be a fuel injector problem cause then you would start to see symptoms while driving as well. And yes that was the same case with me too, when i tickled the throttle the motor would stabilize , thats why i opened up my aac valves idle position all the way so it does a slight throttle when starting up, eliminating the problem. However this is at the cost of ruining my idle position, now it idles at 950 rpm as opposed to 700. Ill have to give the cold start valve a shot by cleaning that, ill have to get done by the mechanic.

Yea you could, its a real bitch to unscrew though, took me ages and i nearly stripped the screws =[

Yea you were actually, also try turning the throttle a little, open it up a bit more

Hey guys, its been 2 days since i last started the car, started the car up this morning, and i gotta say, it started up absolutely brilliant. The revs started off low for not even a millisecond and it was pretty much 100%. No lumpyness, no idle problems, no stalling. Cleaning the aac valve pretty much worked for me. i give it 9/10 points. Just a heads up i didnt just clean the aac valve, but i cleaned the intake where the aac valve connects too, as well as the pipings and all surrounding areas, spent 3 hours cleaning it. Used a tooth brush to scrub off all the dirt etcc. Hopefully it works for you guys too, i also turned the idle control valve fully open to clean out the gunk, then i returned it to its original postion, i also used a vaccum cleaner and sucked any stray dust that was present in the intake and in the aac valve. Other than that, i pretty much followed the rest of the diy guide.

Ive just finished cleaning the aac valve and it starts up so much better, just went for a long drive. The start up was almost instant, very smooth and quieter idle than before, however thats only in the period of 5 hours since it was last turned on. I will let you guys know how it starts tomorrow morning, hoping for the best, but other than that so far so good!

Cheers for the report dyl33, ive been a little busy past few days, ill clean the aac valve out tonight and report back if i see any difference. But still its good to see that it made a bit of difference. I started my car this morning and it didnt die this time, I left it outside in the cold over night for the first time in a few months instead of in the garage, it didnt struggle as much to start which is odd, but maybe that's just a one off coincidence.

Im gonna give both the aac valve and the cold start control valve a good clean tomorrow, ill report back if i find any changes but so far from what i have researched, it seems to be the cure for the cold start up problems every morning. Im gonna clean the o2 sensors as well. Hopefully it makes a difference.

Found a DIY on cleaning the AAC valve. Hopefully this does the trick http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

Hopefully that cures the problem, if not then it really is a mystery. Ill give it a shot as well, Might have to purchase a aac gasket from ebay. Ill try find a walk-through of how to remove the aac valve.

Cheers, ill try cleaning it, i wasn't very keen on doing it myself, might just pay a mechanic to clean it for me.

Its better than it was before, i did the same thing you did and pushed the pedal before it stalls. Seems to start up fine that way. Still would be better if i could start it up normally without any problems.

Yea thats my problem, but there should be a valid reason why they struggle so much every morning on start up =[ Mine is really bad now, it just stalls.

That would be really helpful! Thanks heaps mate =)

Yea must be the aac i guess, ive read some forums and people have seen positive results when cleaning their aac. Maybe its just a r33 problem, my mate who owns a r33 also has dodgy start ups in the morning, mine however seems to be getting worse. Ill try putting in a new battery as well, see if that helps. Cheers for your input =)

Hey dyl33, Yes what you described is exactly what happens! in some cases it stalls but yes thats pretty much whats happening.

Ill give it a shot tomorrow, hopefully it gets it starting up normal again. But if it is the aac valve, wouldnt the general idling of the car be dodgy as well?? Cause aac valve controls idle's i believe and my car idles fine but starts up bad, i could be wrong though. Ill give it a shot either way. Cheers

Hey guys, as the name suggest i've been having some unusual start up problems when i turn the car on in the morning. Usually what happens is when i start the car, the engine starts, but struggles to keep the revs high and vibrates excessivly (kinda like a lawn mower running out of petrol), then the car suddenly revs to like 2000rpm and then calms down and idles normally. In some cases when the temperature is cold and i havent used the car for like 1 or 2 days, the car starts, vibrates excessivly, and stalls. Then when i try starting it the 2nd time it works fine. I first thought it might be the fuel pump, or spark plugs but i got the spark plugs changed just last year. There is no symptoms of a dodgy fuel pump so ive ruled those 2 out. All i can think of is a dieing battery, but the car starts normally during the 2nd start so not sure what it could be. Additional information: Sometimes when i start the car, and it struggles to start, i tap the accelerator lightly for barley a millisecond and the engine will suddenly start up and everything is normal. Cheers in advance guys

Ahhh thats fair enough i guess, cheers for that

You should of just went with a k&n panel, the pods wont really make much difference, it can even end up being less economical and lose power if you dont install it right or have cold air being fed to it

Thanks guys, turns out autobahn also installs keyless entry systems, i might just go there instead of risking blowing something just like you guys suggested... Seeing as im not qualified and all.

The car was made in 1996, but they keyless was factory fitted since it was a series 2. But i think ill just get it done by a pro, since i clearly dont know what im doing

Hey guys, i was wondering if its possible to put a aftermarket intake manifold/plenum or a rb26 plenum on the rb25de non turbo, reason i want to do this is because i want to eliminate the cross over piping on the stock plenum, which goes over the motor and gets freakin hot, defeating the purpose of a CAI. If it is possible, will i need to do make any modifications to the ecu, air sensors, throttle body(can i use the stock throttle body) etc..? Cheers guys

Hey guys i was wondering where abouts the Keyless entry receiver is located in the series 2 skyline? i decided to change the stock skyline Keyless receiver since my remote is fried, so I bought a new after market receiver but the wiring diagrams on the the cars ecu doesnt show where which wires connect to the actual stock keyless receiver? Im guessing the Keyless entry receiver doesn't connect to the ecu at all?? Im really lost at the moment, need some help. And is it possible to just teach the current stock receiver to learn a new key, if so how do i teach it?? cause i rather just do that then rip apart the skyline trying to find a reciever. Thanks guys