Deza3000

I dont quite remember what he said but apparently its wired through a relay and the earth wire is grounded so it doesnt vary the voltage or something along those lines... im not a sparky so i didnt quite understand what he meant haha.

Running stock fuel reg.. Didnt think i needed one?

R34 GTR fuel delivery issue Hi Guys, Got a bit of an issue with the fuel delivery on my car and was wondering if you can help me out... Just a quick background on the car: - Brand new 1000cc xspurt injectors with resistor pack removed - Brand new walbro 460lph e85 fuel pump with relay - Apexi powerfc - 2860-5 turbos - titanium turbo back exhaust - ARC intake (stock afms) - manual boost controller - set to 18psi I got my car tuned today only to find out the car was only able to make 290awkw on e85 @18psi safely. I was aiming for 350-380awkw however my tuner said the car struggled to go above 290 due to the car leaning out. Apparently he had to trick the ecu into thinking the injectors were only 550cc in order to get the car running right, where as when they were set to 1000 it would just run lean. He was reluctant to up the boost for obvious reasons. Im taking the car back to one of the boys who used to work at racepace to do a check on Monday (he was the one who installed all the parts for me), however this is something ill definitely be losing sleep over during the weekend. Just wondering what everyones opinion on the issue would be? Only thing i could think of was that the injectors dont like the ecu or the fuel filter in the engine bay is dirt.

See the attached. The Oil may be in "good condition" but its only good for the intended application which is track days. The data sheet on Motuls website states 300v is intended for track-GT-Rally (short distance race) use. This in my opinion would mean it provides worse protection than conventional fully synthetic oils (i.e. castrol, penrite or even motul 8100) on road use. Thats just my theory anyway based on the technical data sheet. track days = 300v --> Fully synthetic Road use = Everything else --> 300v 300V_Trophy_0W-40_(GB).pdf

2500ks if they're using 300v 300V_Power_5W-40_(GB).pdf

Here is the 300v technical data sheet. It specifies its only for short distances i.e. track days. 300V_Power_5W-40_(GB).pdf

Haha thats true! Big job though

Yep read the forums, everyone has their own opinions and different modifications (i.e. built motor) done to their car, which led me to believe that there is a reason they chose a particular oil brand for their car. That being said, i agree it was all the same anyway. I used the term "best" very loosely, coming from an evo, most drivers use similar spec oil (10w-40 for street, 50 weight for track), where as the GTR, oil recommendations were very broad, and reading up on oil starvation issues i was getting rather paranoid as to whether i chose the right oil for my car, hence why i went my own way and tested the top 3 recommended oil. Seeing as castrol edge 10w-60 is always on sale, ill probably just opt for that from now on.

Oil - RB26 Hi Guys, After a confusing couple months as a new GTR owner, trying to seek information on the best oil to use for daily (and occasional spirited) driving on a stock as a rock rb26, i ended up with the biggest headf**k of the century. Basically this is what i got: Reputable tuner recommendations: Castrol Edge 10w-60 Reputable workshops: Motul x8100 or H-tech 10w-40 (or if you can afford it Nismo oil) Nissan track enthusiasts: Motul 300v 10w 40 Autobarn: Motul 10w-40, castrol edge 10w-60, Penrite 15w-50 racing SAU Forums: All of the above + penrite hpr, royal purple, redline etc.... (keep in mind some of these topics were from 10+ years ago, im sure there have been advancements since then) So i decided to do my own investegation and research on the oils and how they behave in my car. Firstly i eliminated the motul 300v/nismo oils from the list as it would have limited return on investment, especially if you change your oils every 2500-5000ks, in addition the 300v oils do not have the proper detergents for daily driving, From what i can see i believe the 300v is engineered for track use only. I decided to try 3 most commonly recommended oils: Castrol edge 10w-60, Motul x8100 and Penrite 15 racing. All 3 oils possess marginal differences in terms of lubrication qualities, espeically with daily driving. Things i tested was oil pressure (normal and spirited driving), oil temperature (25 degree day), engine noise, oil burned. Here are the results so far: Motul x8100 10w-40: Oil temp: 79 degrees normal driving minimal traffic Oil pressure: 2.2kg idle, 4kg @ crusing speeds engine noise (once warmed up): ? Oil burned(end of 5000ks service): None Castrol edge 10w-60 Oil temp: 81 degrees normal driving Oil presusre: Same as above Engine noise: Quieter lifter noise than motul - Viscosity or forumla? Oil burned: None Penrite 15w-50 racing Oil temp: 81 degrees Oil pressure: Same as above Engine Noise: same as Motul Oil burned: None. Fuel economy was the same across all oils. I tried keep the tests as consistent as possible, obviously its not the most reliable of tests but it can be used as a good initial reference to newbie GTR owners like myself .. One thing i found strange was that the oil pressure was the same across all brands and viscosity, unless theres some oil pressure regulator system im unaware of ,it is puzzling.. That being said by the end of it, i came to the conclusion that all 3 are good as they provide similar results. I have kept the bottle of the oils i have tested and will probably get some samples professionally tested and post them here to see which oil would be best suited for a rb26.

Unless it has a silencer, it will be droney, even if it does, its still droney but less volume.. If you want a good exhaust for an n/a with out the drone, go to an exhaust shop and have one made with a resonator and a middle muffler with a canon tip at the end(im assuming thats what you want as every p plater must have a canon tip, am i right? :D). Should be an improvement over stock. It wont be anything fancy, but for an n/a you wont need much. Speaking from experience it will cost you 550 excluding cat, 750 including cat.

Wow you sure you want to swap those man? They are worth quite a bit. Especially those specs. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BBS-19-x-10-RGR-Car-Wheel-Rim-5-x-120-Part-RG779DBK-/141603293821?hash=item20f836ca7d:g:KLIAAOSwEeFVAe~o

Hey Damien, Whats the specs? Dimensions? Thanks

Ahh damn it, 2 years too late, i wanted to swap my LMgt4's for the exact specs of your wheels haha. Ahh well

Rays LMGT4 Nismo - genuine 18 inch wheels SWAPS/For Sale Hi Guys, Im looking to trade my Nismo LMGT4's for something slightly more aggressive (i.e. Rays TE37 10.5 x 18 +12) for my R34 GTR. Currently these wheels sit flush at the front but a little deep at the back (GTR too fat). Im unsure of the offset of these wheels but i do know they are 18x9.5s. Looking for straight swaps for wheels of equal value, or happy to sell them at a good price (yet to research the market value of these but feel free to make an offer, worst i can say is no). These wheels are 100% genuine, with its original paint, the wheels are just dirty asf due to the aggressive brake pads, given up on trying to keep them clean. There is slight gutter rash, nothing nasty (though gutter rash in general is nasty), will swap with or without tyres. Tyres have 80% tread all round, no camber wear, 18/265/35 federals. Show me what you got! (equal or more value pleaseeee!) 19s prefered, cash adjusted if your wheels are worth more.

Have you considered a ralliart? Assuming its just a daily it would be cheaper to run and you wont feel as guilty clocking on a few ks on them, it uses the same evo 10 motor and trans, its just heavily detuned. Or if you're doing 1000ks a week just get a 2013 falcon/commodore, pretty cheap and most cabs run them past 300,000ks.

Just make a bracket for it using a $6 piece of metal from bunnings. All you need to do is measure the distance between the pod clamps and bolt holding the power steering resvoir and bend into shape accordingly so that the bracket fits under the clamp and bolts into the same hole as the resvoir. Better than cable ties. Or just put the factory airbox back. There's a 9 second skyline r33 on youtube that runs a factory airbox (mind you its slightly modified).

I drove mine daily for 3 years. Mind you it was close to stock for the majority of the time i had it, then put out roughly 250awkw in the final 6 months prior to selling on a standard exedy heavy duty clutch. Easy to drive, some can get a little clunky depending on whether the transfer case bushes are worn to shit. Very good throttle response, very easy to speed. Cheapish to maintain. Theft rate seems to be climbing for evos though causing insurace prices to be almost equal to a GTR

Evo's are climbing in price too now. I bought mine for 13.5k with roady 3 years ago, spent 2-3k on e85 supporting mods and sold it for 17.5k without roady 2 months ago. I bought an R34 GTR before it was completely unattainable, Ive always wanted one, and it scared me when i realized i may never own one, which prompted me to sell the evo, otherwise i never would have. I would have both if i could.

Haha niceee, you should polish the snorkel up a bit as well. Makes a big difference overall! Or paint it if its tired after 15 years of non weather and heat.

Haha how good is it! How is yours holding up after 2 years? Not too shabby for 5 dollars.

Cheers mate. It was something like this: https://www.bunnings.com.au/raven-9-x-6mm-5m-grey-adhesive-foam-door-and-window-seal_p3970353 Make sure its the weather proof ones as they are more durable. Adhesive is strong so it does the job well.

Hey mate, Not sure if you fixed the issue by now. Its to do with your clock spring/cam position. You must of rotated it while the wheel was off which rotated the cam/clock spring, placing the notch that dis-engages the indicator in the wrong position. Hence why your indicators are stuffed up. I did the same thing on my evo, i simply removed the clock spring and rotated the cam back into the correct position then carefully placed the clock spring along with the steering wheel back without rotating the cam. See my horribly drawn diagram below: It takes a bit of effort to decipher, but thats basically what cuts out the indicator. Let me know if you need more clarification Simply put, the cam rotates along with the steering wheel which presses the indicator notch which releases the spring and cuts out the indicator. All you need to do is put it back into its position.

The rest of the bay still needs some attention but the hardest part was taken care of. Also need to polish up the black piece on the spark plug cover, its a bit hazy. Not sure what product to use to restore it

RB26 engine restore Hi Guys, Thought id share my first time attempt at restoring my tired rb26 rocker covers and intake snorkel. Came out fairly decent and was pretty happy with the results. Before (rocker): Not sure if you can see the paint flaking towards the middle of the motor After: Before (snorkel): Notice the worn out sponge, tired worn plastic After: - Not the best pic, sponge was replaced

SOLD