Deza3000

Hey guys, Selling my Original rays TE37s 18x9.5 +12 with bridgstone S001 tyres. These wheels have no gutter rash and are in amazing condition. They were originally on my evo, which i have sold without the wheels in order to make the sale cheaper for the buyer. The wheels have stretched tyres 235 45 18 in order to make them fit. The wheels are more catered towards GTR's or flared evos running 265s. They do fit GTT/GTST however you will definitely need to roll the guards. FYI: The wheels were really dirty when i took the pics, so it doesnt really do the wheels justice. Looks very nice on a skyline! Added a pic for reference Pickup only - south east suburbs. Price: $3000 ono with tyres Edit: Forgot to add, the wheels used to have light gutter rash however these have been fully restored and the whole wheels resprayed. No damage, no buckles

Oh yea i agree, depending on how you drive it and the life its had it will make it weaker. Was your mates evo X a DSG? If so id assume those rapid shifts might incur some torque load on the motor considering the car is never off boost. The way the turbo comes on boost and the how wild the tune is can also determine the longevity of the motor, hence why bp71 is a popular choice (as well as fp's). That being said, lots of R&D has gone into making 300awkw reliable on stock block evos. Lots of forums in uk and us on people running 400+whp on their evos, some even running 500whp - though this is surley going to reduce engine life. http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/391588-hp-estimate-what-will-stock-9-block-hold-safely.html But yea you're right, it might be all in the tune, as you said limiting torque to prevent rod failure.

I had a quick read. Looks interesting man. I saw you were looking to get the car tuned haha, noticed some misguided info on that thread on evo's having weak rods. this was only true on the evo 7 where it spits out a rod at 220awkw, That being said my evo 7 is at 250awkw with 470nm of torque stock turbo stock motor and still going strong Luck of the draw when it comes to 7s. 9s on the other hand, they go strong, well above 300awkw. A few guys i know run a bp71 turbo with e85 on stock evo 8s and 9s. A BP71 turbo + e85 gets you to 330awkw pretty easily and safely on a 8 or 9. Ported stock 9 turbo + e85 can get you close to 300awkw, with the added responsiveness of the mivec it will be killer. Low 11 second car. This is all on a stock long block, no forging. Ooo also forgot to mention the JDM 9 ecu supports flat foot shifting, launch control and anti-lag, so if you have the jdm 9 you might notice the antilag setup on the exhaust manifold

You had a r33 GTR before didnt you? How do you feel it compares to the evo 9?

Niceeee, these are going up in price, i remember back in 2012 these were selling for 13k. Now for a clean one, 18k minimum.. I suspect it was due to these becoming legal to import in canada after their 15 year import rule. Unlucky with the gearbox though! Usually these gearboxes are bullet proof, i suspect the trans has encountered some launching/high torque in its life, id probably look into reconditioning the transfer case as well. I know a few evo 6/tme owners with the original box and its still going strong, even with 300+awkw pumped through it.

Haha i remember this thread! Yea my evo was actually running a blown cat for almost 15 months which is why the response was so shocking. Got that fixed, got the car re-tuned and the thing just goes.

Hey guys, Just an update. I got the cat swapped out with a 100 Cell high flow and its a good thing i did! My old cat absolutely crapped itself, there was debris blocking 50-70% of the cat. Even a brand new stock replacement would of seen some gains! Unfortunately i didnt get to take a picture of it in time as it made its way to the bin. I drove the car and i definitely need a retune. The car is hitting 1.6 bar of boost in 2nd under 75% throttle (i thought full boost is usually seen in 3rd gear?), where as before it tapers off @0.9 ~1.1 bar in 2nd. I was scared to full throttle as i dont have a Wideband. Its not as loud as i thought it would be, just a bit raspier.

Yep will definitely have a chat to him about it. Kinda exciting though, more untapped power

Yea i thought so. 20kW is a good bit of power given the cost of a cat. Ill visit an exhaust shop and get them to weld one on. I also just realised my stock cat is 2.5inch, might be causing some turbulence as well, kind of wish i remembered sooner. Cheers mate.

Hey guys, Apologies if this question is stupid, but i have a awkward scenario where google wont be much help. So today i remembered im still running the stock cat on my evo. I had a full 3inch exhaust system which i installed 2 years ago however it came with a test pipe as oppose to a high flow, so i left the factory cat on to keep the car legal. As time progressed i focused on other mods and i totally forgot about the exhaust till today. Recently I got my car tuned on e85 - stock turbo @1.6 bar & stock motor and made 242awkw/460nm. I was wondering whether it will still be worth getting a high flow cat post tune, or whether the results will be negligible... Cheers

Naa its all good mate! I read the post on the train after a long day at work so i was rather moody. I do realize how expensive owning a r34 GTR can be as my friend spent roughly $40,000 on maintenance/mods only to have it stolen a year later. So i'd say Anfanee is also on the money there. Ill admit r34 GTR is probably bad advice, at the time of writing the post i just saw it as a goal and was ignorant of the costs associated with owning one. Anyway, you clearly know much more about owning GTRs than me, ive only driven them, never owned one I was contemplating buying one (r32 or r34 GTR) this year but i couldnt justify purchasing one as the r32 GTR has gone up in price ever since they started selling in the US. I decided to instead put the money towards some real-estate Evo shall suffice I reckon you made the right choice going GTR, they're only going to go up in price while the evo has hit a all time low. Evo 8 MRs go for 23k, 2 years ago they were 30k. All that time and money invested back then will make it that much more special to drive today

I agree mate, Anything 2nd hand thats been boosted and tuned is destined to break eventually, thats a given. He could of simply said that.. I mean surley its not that hard: its easy, look: "Hey mate, i think saving up for a r34 GTR wouldnt be the best advice as those things are appreciating and becoming less reliable as time goes on. But i do agree with him saving his money and buying something of value in the near future" Instead, he was straight up a sarcastic douche. Hence why i got personal. Anyways, apologies RBN1, I didnt mean what i said mate, its the internet, i forget that..

So by your logic, if the r34 GTR becomes unreliable by 18 years of age, your R32 GTR must be a piece of crap? You know, given its less refined, already 20+ years and "things starts breaking". Im sorry, if you're going to generalise that my advice was bad, when in fact i was giving him a goal which teaches him patience and motivation to save money, then i'm just going to be a flamin mongrel to you. Also read half the comments here, and pick on them. They do not attend to the OP's question at all.. If you have an opinion on whats been said, try not to be a sarcastic prick and piss people off.

2 years is plenty of time to save up for a car. In that time you would of changed your mind anyway and a lot of the 25k+ cars now will come down to about 18k. I remember opting for a r33 GTR once i got off my Ps, instead i jumped into an Evo. I wouldnt stress about it now, just save up and have a goal and then buy the car when you turn 22...or if you still havent reached your goal then wait another few months and save a little more. You dont have to get a turbo car straight off the bat. Heck you could even go all out on a r34 GTR if you were patient enough and managed your money well. An r34 GTR at 25 years of age is pretty impressive if you start saving now Ps: at your age (which is pretty much my age) i would never get a loan on a car. Waste of money.

I did a little research based on what you said and 100% agree. Motul 300v is track oriented. To the OP, i stand by the Mobil ultimate all round performance as its one of the best oils out there made for high performance cars. Its more expensive (around 100 dollars for 5litres) but its pretty damn good. To put it in perspective, i have been told a few guys have used this oil in their old ferrari's and its never skipped a beat. HPR is also pretty decent. My mate is running penrite Everyday fully synthetic in his G6E turbo which is pushing 330rwkw. You shouldnt really go wrong. Ive tried different oils in my evo ranging from castrol edge, motul 300v, penrite hpr, penrite racing, mobil ultimate all round etc.. and by far mobil was the best for daily driving.

Penrite 10 tenths racing, Motul 300v or Mobil ultimate allround performance. Those 3 oils are one of the best out there for turbo charged cars. Viscosity is obviously dependant upon engine mods, driving conditions and weather.

Wasnt there also a Mclaren in NSW that was donated to HWY patrol?

Yea its pretty damn good! I can get it close to 100 if i turn off HBAO+/VXAO and that hair thing. Those 2 settings kill gpu performance

Anyone here manage to max out rise of tomb raider on their PC ? I used up 4gb of vram on my gtx 970 + an additional 3gb of my system ram (+ the 2gb to run the game) due to textures, on a 1080p monitor. It runs 60+fps, but when i suddenly change location or go to a cut scene the computer chokes as it tries to load textures from system ram The gpu has the horsepower but no reserves....so annoying arghhhhhh. Vram is the fuel pump of the GPU world, doesnt provide enough response to the core I read somewhere that even a 980ti will struggle with this game in terms of vram, need 8gb~. The visual fidelity isnt all that great considering the system requirements it needs, i mean battlefront looked heaps better and that thing barely used any system resources. But i highly recommend rise of tombraider, best offline game ive played in a while! Heaps to do and pretty good story too. On another note, Grid autosport (grid 3) is on sale for 9 dollars on steam. I didnt even know they featured the v8 supercars! VF and FG series v8s, should i or shouldnt i get it? I saw the reviews and i dont knowwwwwwww whether i should get it cause it seemed average, i want to get it but im also thinking of getting dirt rally as that game got 9/10 on most reviews. Opinions on either??

I run bendix in my evo, general CT as they are the only ones that dont squeal in my car But definitely go project Mu, those things are amazing, also comes with high quality shims so should be less noisy than other track/high performance street pads.

Just wondering if 250-300awkw will burn this clutch to bits. Im currently daily driving it but most of my evo friends are running twin plates or carbon ceramic at this power level so it got me a little worried that its going to start slipping. My clutch is still brand new

Hmm yea ill keep an eye on the pump as well. I couldnt get the car to stall or die again, it was just that one day Anyways ill change the lot, sparkplugs, coilpacks, timing, and pump and write it off as a 100k service. Thanks for the info guys, ill post back once ive fixed the problem

Thats the weird thing, there is no rough idle, starts 100% fine, no back fires (might be masked due to stock exhaust) and doesnt rev down rough. I havent checked the timing, CAS or knock yet. It does jerk or anything, when it hits about 3~5k revs it just hangs and revs up extremly slow. Very bad struggle and it doesnt shift even in tip-tronic until 2-3 seconds after its suppose too. When the car stalls however, the car jerks a fair bit prior to stalling, its done it twice, but i couldnt get it to stall again, so somethings a bit weird

Okay so the car randomly died twice today. Once when slowing down and once when accelerating. The car starts up fine straight away so i ruled out fuel pump, i suspect coilpacks and sparkplugs, what do you guys reckon?

Not too sure if youve solved this issue or not, but the main reasons why the 6 speed fail was due to high oil temperatures and thinner 4th, 5th and 6th gears which resulted in premature wear. Usually caused by track days with lots of 4th gear pulls (also the reason why 3rd and 4th tend to go). I would probably get a oil cooler to start off with and do a lot of cool down runs between spirited driving sessions in order to prolong the gearbox life. Just to put it in perspective, i know a lot of people running their evo 8MRs @ ~350awkw on stock 6 speed trans on e85 (imagine the torque) and the box is still going strong. Poor shifting, aggressive/improper launches and poor servicing are all ingredients for a dead box whether your stock or modified. Changing the oil often will also help too depending on how hard you plan on driving. Also on a side note, bashing the gear shift hard enough in between 3rd and 5th can destroy 6th rendering 6th gear unusable. I believe this was notorious in the 9s, so id be careful and avoid doing this I put a 6 speed in my 7 and have done lots of research to see what the flaws of going to 6 speed were.