Deza3000

Just an update, have finally gotten around to flushing out the old oil and chucking in some fresh oil, actually did it for the first time in my life, and i gotta say, oil looked like crap. It was pitch black and gross, smelt like sh** as well. Chucked in 4.75 liters of castrol edge 10w-40, went for a drive, no oil pressure light! But it was a short drive, ill need to actually give it a good run and see if it starts to flicker again. As for the gauges, they are still getting shipped, should have it by next week hopefully Ill see how everything goes, im still going to get the new pressure sender. As one of you already suggested, looking at the evo forums, found out that apparently oil pressure senders do give out on around 40k miles, hopefully thats where my problem is! Cheers for all the help!

Yea i heard nulon make good oil blends! I had 5 liters of 10w40 castrol edge, so thought i may as well use that for now.

Oh nice, cheers man! They sell senders too! too easy Ahh dang, i googled it before mixing, a lot of guides say that its okay to mix, now that i think about it, might of just been under normal circumstances and not spirited driving I checked out if i had an oil cooler yesterday, i think it does? There is a small radiator located right next to the intercooler piping on the left hand side, not sure if its for the transmission or engine, will do some research soon! Might actually be easier to install a bigger oil cooler if this is the case. My tuner told me the exact same thing! If the bearings are f***d then im screwed. But yea ill start off with thicker oil and a oil pressure sender, see where that takes me. I used penrite the first 6 months of owning the car, then i switched to motul fully synthetic as per the tuner suggested, apparently its the best oil to use for high performance motors? Maybe ill switch back to penrite, got suggested this brand of oil twice haha,

Haha yea thats alright man, Cheers for all the help! There were a number of reasons i didnt go to an evo forum, 1 being because OZEVO forums are down, not to mention their interface isnt the best compared to SAU. I would of also tried evolutions.net, but they are hosted in the US, and only deal with evo 8 9 and 10, not to mention the time difference, it would take almost a day to receive any reply to queries i may have. That being said, SAU also has an evo section, i just didnt post there as i thought the topic would be rather generic and apply to all cars. Cheers man, yep will do, ill see how i go. One more thing, where can i get a decent oil pressure and oil temperature gauge in australia? Preferably a reputable brand? Im guessing supercheap and autobarn arent reliable? Greddy costs an arm and a leg so not gonna bother importing one of those haha

Umm around 3000 ks ago, i service it every 5000ks including oil filter, also had the rocker cover gaskets changed etc... I have no stock oil pressure gauge Evo's dont have oil pressure gauges, which is pretty stupid in my eyes. Both oil's are fully synthetic, just different weight and different brands (motul & castrol). Blends might be slightly different as well i guess. Yea sounds like the most appropriate idea, i was looking into getting the oil pressure sensor changed too. The oil was just below the max line... Ill see how it goes once i get a fresh batch of oil in there. Is it normal for oil to slightly depreciate?

I dont really know what weight the oil was, all i know is that they put motul fully synthetic oil. Im guessing it was 10w-30? Thats why i bought some thicker oil (10w-40), to see how it would go. Yea it concerned me too, but it only happens on idle, it always comes on after a long drive (or spirited driving), hence why im assumng the oil is just getting too thin. It isnt a solid light, just a flicker on idle, sometimes it it stays solid (only on idle). I topped up because i wanted to see if mixing thicker oil would reduce the oil flicker. Might need to flush out the old oil and put in a fresh batch of thick oil. The oil was still full, so i only chucked in 500mls to avoid passing the max.

Try decreasing the boost pressure maybe? As Ben stated, the ecu is probably trying to protect the motor, go to a tuner and get them to see whats going on. It can literally be 100 different things. I had a boost cut in my evo, i thought bad fuel pump or batch of fuel, ended up being my intake pipe collapsing on boost. Took me 2 weeks to realize. So yea, literally can be anything.

Cheers for the reply man! Yea makes sense, i had no clue what the car was doing, it was only when the oil light started to flicker, that i realized the oil must of gotten pretty hot. After a 35minutes of cooling it down the light never came on again. So yea i guess a oil temp and oil pressure gauge is mandatory to have. What brands do you recommend? I dont really trust the supercheap auto/ autobarn gauges e.g. saas, drift, calibre... Correct me if im wrong. I currently have a Greddy boost gauge, calibrated, and with warranty (although its all in japanese ==).

So ive probably owned my first turbo charged car for little over a year now, boosted, tuned and serviced every 5000ks. However recently ive been driving the car a bit harder, e.g. mountains, rural areas and the odd track day. Usually high revs and mostly on 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear, entering and exiting corners, sometimes for 1/2 an hour straight with small breaks in between. It then occurred to me, people have oil pressure gauges, oil temp gauges, transmission temp gauges, oil catch cans, wideband o2 sensors etc.. for this type of driving, So i decided to give the car a rest and walked over to the front, and felt a huge amount of heat radiating from the bonnet vents, so i opened the bonnet and let it cool down for 1/2 an hour. Thats where the OCD/paranoia kicked in.... I also noticed the "check oil light" flicker when idling after the run, which indicated the pressure was too low due to the oil getting too thin from the heat. was just wondering how bad i might of hurt the car? Makes me feel shi***y inside Topped her up with some castrol edge, which i got for bloody cheap (25 bucks for 5 liters) at supercheap.

Im pretty sure the spring types are the same but the shocks would be different, cause r34 use both fork types and eyelet type shocks where as r33 just use eyelet? Anyways as i stated before, you must have purchased lowering springs, hence why your mechanic says the springs are "too short", cause they are lowering springs. The only way to lower a car on springs is to buy springs shorter than the factory springs....which is what you have done. Factory shocks are built for taller springs, however most people still use factory shocks on lowering springs anyway so you should be fine. If you plan on doing some track work then id recommend getting some good shocks e.g. bilstein or kyb. It will still work with factory shocks, you will just have a rough ride with a chance of bottoming out.

Im taking a guess here, but i reckon your mechanic just meant that stock shocks do not support lowering springs. "springs too short for shocks" You bought lowering springs, hence why he said that. That being said, if you are keen on using the springs on stock shocks, its 100% compatible, with the only down side being your shocks sit half way compressed. It's still better than doing it the ghetto way (people with cut/heated springs on stock shocks)

After owning a couple of N/as and also driving plenty of my peers n/as, i can safely say nearly every single N/A skyline performs differently. Some perform freakin awesome considering., others perform like garbage. Personal opinion, i reckon most of the "slower" n/a skylines have over 150-200k on the clock.

Considering i bought it for 68 bucks on ps4, good game But , the maps and story is very limited. Not loving the low fps either, pain in the ass when trying to play multiplayer. Its like they capped the frames on purpose? Unresponsive, compared to COD ghosts (which was a crap game but really good and responsive fps). Heard they capped the frames on destiny to make sure the experience was equal to xbox one or something ? Xbox being lesser powerful..

The rad was still hot so i couldnt check it today, a bit dark now so ill have a look tomorrow afternoon. But so far there is no leak and no puddles. Also no sign on white stains in the engine bay so i guess i can cancel out high pressure leak. The Rad was changed 1 month ago..roughly. It was also flushed, it was done by Revzone in ringwood. Happens every time i throttle, doesnt go above the normal temp, only below, so drops all the way to "L" then goes back up just under the middle, as you said. Im starting to think either thermostat or air in the system as you said. Do i just turn on the car and open the rad cap and let it warm up to bleed the air?

Hmm thats pretty interesting, explains why a full format takes a couple hours while a quick format takes 1 minute. Must be that file location table thing just being erased rather than actually cleaning the HDD. and LOL @ the family TV comment, definitely a worry, dad comes home chucks in the HDD and bam! "daddy why are those men on that lady"

Okay so here's the scenario: cold starts: (first symptom) - When warming up the car i notice the temp gauge going up slowly, however when i turn my steering wheel, it dips back down to cold (only a minor movement, so i ignored it) Under heavy driving: (second symptom) - While cruising on 40ks per hour, i downshifted @ WOT to join the road, and noticed the temp gauge drop from its normal position (roughly around the middle) all the way to cold, then slowly started climbing back up again.... Starting to worry me now, i dont know if its a bad thermostat, lose connection, bad water pump or bad radiator...however if it was the radiator then i would of fried the motor a long time ago. I dont want to fry the gaskets if it is the water pump. Not too sure, anyone have any insight? The fluctuation usually happens when i push the car. Under normal driving it seems fine....for now, (although ive just noticed it today, yet to see if it acutally fluctuates while crusing) Note: just changed my radiator to a brand new one, old one cracked.

Wow actually never thought of it that way, makes sense though.

Yes! I reckon even a Rb25DET would do well in a GT-4 As i recall, nissan didnt want to turbo charge the GT-4 as its performance might be too close to the more expensive GTR. Think i read it on wiki

The only n/a id probably turbo is a GT-V, only because the whole car has GTT components fitted from factory...apart from the motor and turbo itself.

Exactly it. No clue where these files are. Do HDDs feature some sort of recovery drive ? TV might be reading the clips from that.

Hey guys, Just bought a new sony bravia w800b. I connected my portable HDD to watch a movie, and as i was loading the files, the TV displayed video files which i deleted months ago. (FYI video files = TV shows, nothing dirty ). I checked on my computer to see if the files are present somewhere else, however found nothing, I only have 4 folders in the whole drive, it is pretty much empty. I have no clue how the TV is reading my old deleted tv Shows, and whats even more weird is that, the files ACTUALLY WORK! I watched a few full episodes of big bang theory, listed to 5 of my 10000s playlists, all of which should not even be in existence right now! All those media files equate to 30-50gb worth of space, however ive only used up 3GB. Very confused, does anyone have any insight to what might be happening? Does the TV somehow read media file dropping ?? Is there a cache of some sort in the HDD itself containing old deleted files? Cheers. Note: HDD brand is Asus, 250gb over 8 years old.

They use 4 different cars, 3 of them are fake and 1 of them is the real deal GTR. https://plus.google.com/photos/108002448200759202180/albums/5194872035032529601?banner=pwa

Not sure if serious...

Im using HKS hypermax pillowball strutmount coilovers. Using it on the street, a little noisy but handles awesome. Dampen settings on the front are 50%, rears are turned up to their stiffest settings (due to the occasional passengers/daily driving occurrences) .

No problem Something to consider watching before you make up your mind. Clutch is dropped at 0:22, reached 100 at 0:31