Deza3000

Not sure if serious...

Im using HKS hypermax pillowball strutmount coilovers. Using it on the street, a little noisy but handles awesome. Dampen settings on the front are 50%, rears are turned up to their stiffest settings (due to the occasional passengers/daily driving occurrences) .

No problem Something to consider watching before you make up your mind. Clutch is dropped at 0:22, reached 100 at 0:31

Civic ep3 will chop an n/a supra N/a supra 0-100 = 7.2 seconds N/a r34 0-100 = between 7.5 to 8.5 seconds Civic ep3 0-100 = 6.4 seconds DC2 integra type R = 6.2-6.9 seconds That should answer your question Please consider that Honda's are manufactured to be fast N/As, where as supras and skylines are engineered to be fast turbo's. N/a supras and skylines are bottom of them range cars built for efficiency during the 1990s, no performance intended.

Most hondas will beat a N/a... Honda civic ep3, s2k, intergra dc5 type-s will destroy the supra and skyline.

If you get one in good nic should be sweet. Yea handling wise its pretty awesome. I found the r34 to handle much better than the supra. Very firm and responsive, however the GT-V is a 2000 model and featured turbo charged version: 4 piston brakes, GT-T suspension, GTT diff etc... Which is why the car was so great in handling, not sure about the standard N/As... But yea, as i said before, a well maintained n/a skyline is probably the best and quickest skyline you could buy. Be prepared to spend 13-15k on a fairly decent r34 with full service history etc... Dont do the common P plater mistake of buying the r34 with the most mods, or the best paint colour, thats the stupidest way to buy a car. In the long run the well maintained r34 will be the cheapest r34.

N/A R34 is just eye candy man, Sister drives a n/a GTV. i drove it for 6 months, its okay... Corners well, has active limited slip diff...etc, but yea, power is just meh. A standard 2010 v6 camry would pull on the N/A r34...Not a good feeling at all.

i bet a N/a Supra with my N/a R33 back in the day. Only by one car length, and he had a passenger. That being said, i also bet numerous n/a r34s with my r33. All money invested in maintenance and making it run like new (engine fully syntehtic oil, tranmission fluids, diff fluids, new panel filter, sparkplugs, cleaned air flow, cleaned intake, cleaned fuel tank, replaced catalytic converter, cleaned terminals and sensors etc..) Mods = None....none at all. RX-8 will deffs chew up your money, bigger p plater money pit. If i were you id go, Golf GTI, Ralliart lancer, xr5 turbo etc... 0-100 5.5. secs average, enough to beat nearly every p plater

V35 Skyline, get that, they are pretty damn quick, safe to say quicker than VE sv6s. Would roughly be in your price range.

I should of checked this post out before! I needed a new radiator, old one was pissing out fluid, ahh well

Ended up fixing the boost cut finally Turns out there was no cut, it was just the intake pipe collapsing in on boost at high revs, hence why i had no boost. We stretched out the airbox a little to create tension, which resulted in no more collapsing Very hard thing to look for when having boost cuts, cause the intake pipe always rises when you pull over and check, so you'd think its all fine ... Cheers for all the help

Hahah commies are boring to drive Yea N/A r33 is slightly quicker than a VT and VY (165kw) commodore, VZs (195kw) pull away after x amount of ks (depending on if they are molested with big wheels or not), VE will demolish a n/a r33. Will beat a xr6 BA and below (4 speed autos). Anything ZF (or even 5speed) is cya later. Those stats are just based on personal experience during my n/a r33 days. 33 is good car though, great for a to b. Got 550ks per tank, never had a problem with it. Turns heads, Obviouse reason i ditched it was for a turbo.

#@GH05T Ill check today, it still has the factory fuel pump, maybe it is on its way out. Yea thats true, im a bit worried now, pushing my luck forcing it to boost.

This is exactly whats happening! No clue what it is

Update: Just took it for a drive, ran a bit better, but boost is still dropping off at 6000 revs ==; After the boost dropped on 1st @5900ish rpm, i switched to 2nd @ WOT, then as soon as the boost began to drop, i quickly switched to third before the boost completely dropped off, at which point the boost quickly shot up to 1.5bars @4000rpm, It feels like the car really doesnt want to rev past 5000-6000. Feels like the its cutting out boost for a reason. I also have a check engine light now Will need to check the error code tomorrow.

#@luke gtr Yea i was thinking the MAF sensor was playing up, took it out and cleaned it thoroughly, yet to test it out... Also noticed the bolts came off the air box on the maf sensor, so there was a little gap between the airbox and maf. Could it be a fuel pump on its way out by any chance? #@scotty nm35 Ill have a look at that today, will do a smoke test to check for leaks... The BOV is pretty new, i doubt its opening early, its a mr edition bov.

Got this weird boost cut thing thats been happening since last night, ran out of ideas, not sure what to do At WOT, i get the full 1.3-1.5 bars of boost, but once i hit 5-6k revs, the boost drops off completely, and the revs climbs slowly (basically like a n/a), If i shift before i hit 5000 revs, the boost is still good (roughly 1-.1.5 bars), however once i push it to 5000revs, all the boost just drops again, and the car barley accelerates. Once i shift, the car gets back onto boost till i hit 5000revs again. No clue why its happening ==; It happened around 15 minutes after i filled up, so thought maybe it might be a bad batch of fuel??? But then i thought, if thats the case it would be pinging as soon as i hit boost... Boost range: - 1st gear: 1 bar, then drops off at 5000revs to 0 (or below) - 2nd gear: 1.2 bars, then drops off at 5000 revs to 0 or below - 3rd gear WOT (from a 40kph pull) 1.5 bars till i hit 5000 revs then drops off again..... If its hitting high pressure of boost, i have no clue what the problem is anyone got any ideas? Things ive done: - Check MAF sensor cabling - Cleaned MAF sensor with maf sensor cleaner - Checked for boost leaks, tightened all clamps - Chucked in some octane booster - Unplugged battery to reset the ECU Things to note: - Spark plugs are 5000ks new - Evo is tuned for 98 octante fuel - Car runs 100% from 0-4900 revs - No knocking (cant hear anything) - Idle is still smooth - Car starts with ease Any help will be much appreciated

#@pretX Yea true you would think that aye, doubt it though. Just did a wiki search on evos as well, apparently the USDM evo 9s dont even have AYC! Just an active rear limited slip diff, strange.....

Only the evo 8/9 had super AYC, evo 7 has the standard AYC, You could get it straight from mitsubishi dealer, they distribute evo 8 9 and 10 spare parts from body kits to turbos, might cost ya an arm and a leg though haha.

oil-evo-4-10.pdf Use the attachment as a guide and you'll be fine. Shouldn't have whine problems In my opinion the transfer case is what takes the most load, considering that its a FWD setup AWD, unlike the GTRs and STIs. So i would just keep the rear diff the way it is, service as and when due and it should be fine.

#@scotty nm35 I had the diff seals leak in my car, general wear and tear. Usual problems generally happen to the AYC, they start whining due to improper servicing or wrong oil used. AYC needs to be serviced/flushed every 20,000ks as per mitsubishi. The AYC is part of the rear diff, both requiring their own set of oils. Keep an eye on the reservoir from time to time.

Hahahaha, 350 is a good price though! Labor + branded manifold = good deal

Haha, awesome

Niceeee man, i like the color, havent seen a yellow evo 7 before, good find. Evos are awesome on the track, you can easily chuck it in a corner and stomp the throttle hahaha Not sure how it would cope with a 2.3l stroker pushing 350-380AWKW. Max ive driven was 200aw )))): Pretty decent tyres, might need to get a good set of coilovers and brakes to go with that . Dominate the track. Waitttttt, blown engine?...sounds familiar.. Are you by any chance the same bloke who lent your old turbo core to one of your mates? Reason i ask is because I remember my mate David bringing me a Turbo core from his mate who was building an evo with a blown motor. That mate might have been you hahaha. My turbo was fried so he went and picked one up

#@scotty nm35 Farrrrk nice, fair few pennies there! Im still at stage 1 hahaha https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=747694591938742&set=vb.205856306122576&type=2&theater Is that your evo by any chance?