Thunderbolt

Okay maybe I didn't word that quite right. What I meant to say is that when you are thrashing around the racetrack *cough*hills*cough* you keep the rpm high, no lower than say 4000rpm at any one stage. So when you get back on it, you will have boost instantly. You don't have to worry about spooling up again. Or is this just an SR thing? Are the RBs different?

Um, the best turbo for 400m on the street is no turbo because you are doing well over the speed limit in any state other than NT. Big turboes aren't really that undrivable provided you have the traction available. You can chug around off boost in everyday traffic, but you know the power will come when you put the boot in. Also once you come on boost, it won't come off boost too quickly until you slow down again.

^^^ Just try to get a generic spring. Length: it should be enough to hold the ball in place without too much preload while knob is out most of the way. Stiffness: Nothing too stiff if you are running standard boost or a little above. That is my opinion anyway. I am not liable for anything that may go wrong as a result of this.

Basically, if it's a fast flash then it is reading a detonation level over 60. If this is the case then take it back to the tuner ASAP. If it's a slow flash then it is either the AFM voltage maxxing out or the injectors maxxing out.

My old car stopped on almost exactly the same kays as yours. Just drove around for a while, eventually it started working on it's own again.

S14 (they are the same) / S15 / 300ZX / R32 / R34 / Magna. I think Falcon rims are also run the same stud pattern. Bear in mind that some of those nissan wheels have a +45 mm offset, meaning that they will sit in a bit from where standard r33 rims would sit.

I run an Apexi filter and don't run a heat shield or box on my 180sx, however run a cold air pipe from the front to underneath the filter. Tell you the truth, the gains from running a pod more than outway the potential extra heat. I was running a K&N filter in the standard box prior to that, I would never go back to the standard box again.

Intercooler: Get one of those Chinese Hybrid copies (they come from same factory as genuine Hybrid apparently). This can be had for as little as a couple of hundred bucks for the core and endtanks. Oil Catch Can: You can use a coke bottle if you like, it will do the same job. BOV: You don't need one straight away provided you don't run the boost too high. Wastegate: I wouldn't skip on quality here, as your engine and turbo health rely on the wastegate functioning correctly.

Well you can't really put a figure on it. To drive an SR safely, you need to keep it below 7000rpm ideally. Fortunately the SR has bucketloads of midrange torque, so you don't need to rev the crap out of it. The stock turbo (on S15s) is fairly good for producing a useable power band, so people shouldn't have to feel they need to race out and by the latest Garret GT28RS or something. Depending on the dyno, you can get up to around 200rwkw with a fuel pump, boost increase (say to 14 or 15psi), intercooler, exhaust, tune etc.

Yeah I'm all for getting the potential out. However some people tend to forget that they don't necessarily need over 200rwkw even though 200rwkw seems the bare minimum these days. You certainly don't need that power on the street, as that is more than enough to easily break lots of laws before you know it. With circuit, the quick times usually comes from the driver and suspension setup. With drift you can easily get sideways and stay sideways with the right setup and tyres (look at the NA Hachis). Drag racing is the only event which relys on big power, and how much of you go out to street meets regularly?

^^^ Yes that is correct. You can set them up for drift / grip, but if you use all 8 then it is for allround.

I have 8 aluminium ones in (c type), and to tell you the truth - the noise does not bother me at all. You certainly notice it's there, but what's a little bit of noise on a sports car. If you don't like noise then you should get the polyurethane ones.

IMO - KW is for bragging to your friends. The real test is how the car performs, and whether it meets what you expect of the car. You may have 400rwkw with a turbo that comes on hard later on in the rev range, but if you can't get traction then what's the use.

Are you able to make adjustments to the shock to make it harder / softer? Also does the spring have any preload or has been compressed?

Back on track now. I traded in my previous RB20 Silvia (had issues and was glad to be rid of it). From memory I think they gave me about $8k for it. Gave it a cheap respray, and probably cleaned it up a bit....It was then advertised for about $18k, and sold pretty quickly.

Yes at this stage it is still on. www.jamboree.com.au

The adjuster is what preloads the spring to hold the ball in place until it reaches the set level. So it needs to read boost from the bottom of the device not the side. It would be too complicated to make otherwise.

Not having a go at you dude (cause I used to think the same way), but offset has little to do with brake clearance. Offset is more to do with suspension clearance. What is important when choosing wheels to fit over a large caliper is to look at where the spokes are in relation to the hub mounting.

Hmmm, I would have thought that having such a low capacity engine would be a bad idea in anything other than an early model Commdore due to the lack of torque. RB25 would be a better solution, but personally I would have gone the 1JZ or 2JZ. 1JZ halfcuts are still pretty cheap too I believe. Good on you for being different though.

This has to be asked. Is your Hubby into performance cars too?

Like Duncan said get a resonator. They are designed to help tune the exhaust pulses and the resonanance, hense the name.

Damn that's sad news. It seems that there are a few people that don't modify their driving behaviour according to who is in their car. I for one never drive fast if I have a female passenger let alone a kid.

Here's a pic for you:

This would just give manufacturers another reason to f*ck car modifiers in the arse. Notice that it is starting to get a lot harder to modify cars these days because of more and more electrically enhanced products? An example of this was when the XR6 turbo came out. There were/are measures to prevent turning the boost up too much. It is a complicated issue to fix, which most people have got around by engine management computer modifcations. You can get around these measures by aftermarket development, but as manufactures get more clued up as to how to protect their development, a lot more work needs to be done by the aftermarket companies to catch up. Hense the price of developing products to overwrite the manufactures settings will be passed onto the consumer.

I think they would be alright, it's not like the GTR wheels are an incredibly low offset so you would effectively be running a set of bolt on spacers without running them if you know what I mean. But my opinion is that you are much better off puting on a R32 GTR wheels - they look much nicer.