Thunderbolt

30 degrees, where did you live - the deep south? Last time I was there, there were several days over 30. Also the lack of humidity means flys were everywhere, I even had to get one extracted from my eye. Anyway enough babbling. Are you doing similar business here?

Why? It looked like a good event except for that mishap.

I had Nankang rear tyres on my old Barina. They didn't seem too bad, and I never had problems with the rear end trying to come out on me (being fwd might help too).

I'd be betting that this is unrelated to the boost controller. Few things you can check: 1) Bov - make sure it isn't opening up when it shouldn't 2) Intercooler piping - Make sure that everything is connected properly and tight. 3) Exhaust - Make sure there isn't a blockage 4) Intake - Make sure the pipe isn't sucking closed.

The R32 GTR you were talking about was a CNJ Motorsports car. Had lots of goodies under the bonnet, but still running twin turboes. On another note, which cams affiliated clubs are some of you guys in?

Check that the ECU is plugged in properly. If it's even slightly loose, then it has potential to short out, cutting all power until the short comes good again.

Dunno why the Skyline couldn't have gone left. The impact spot is right in the middle of the road or even a little further to the right.

Ouchies. Did he even have a front bar on it?

I assume you are doing a five stud conversion on a 180sx? You'd be best off using hubs from a strut front end, such as an S14.

If this is the workshop I think it is, I have used them and had no serious issues, but they obviously made a mistake and aren't prepared to admit it. Believe you me, I have spent years trying to find a decent workshop after having bad experiences in one after the other. Even going to workshops that people swear by often isn't good enough.

Bridgestone Grid IIs 215/60/15 Responsiveness - 9/10 Dry grip - 8/10 Wet grip - 7/10 Value for Money - ?? These tyres came with my 180sx (from import dealer) and were fairly second hand by the time I picked the car up. The responsiveness was outstanding. If you found yourself understeering on a corner, you wind in more lock and the tyres would do exactly as you tell it. I felt very comfortable with these tyres in the dry or the wet. In fact when it came time to replace them, I was so scared that the next set of tyres wouldn't be as good. Bridgestone Potenza GIIIs 215/60/15 Responsiveness - 6 / 10 Dry grip - 9/10 Wet grip - 7/10 Value for money - 8/10 ($150 a tyre) Have been fairly happy with this set of tyres. Have problems breaking traction in a straight line in the dry and even in the wet sometimes. Responsiveness was not as good as the Grid IIs, you need to make sure you take the corner at the appropriate speed. However the grip is certainly there.

There is Tuned @ Wooloongabba: http://www.tunedautomotive.com.au/index1.html

I very much doubt that your engine has sustained damage. Reason I say that is that any metal pieces would have to make their way through the intercooler before ending up in the engine. This alone would probably ensure that only the finest particles would end up in the engine. It is possible that the engine is damaged, but as you are going to have to replace the turbo anyway then I would do that first and then see what happens from there.

Just use a mobile phone holder.

Can anyone tell me what a misfiring wrx sounds like?

Fuel cut is usually caused by the AFM voltages maxxing out. You should be able to run a fair amount of boost without any problems, but usally there isn't any specific boost level that you can run as it will vary according to other mods.

The photo of the "new" tyre looks like it's rubbing on something.

^^^ You could always try disassembling the unit and puting a softer spring in it. Would probably be a lot easier than getting a whole new boost controller.

Could be due to the oil draining back to the sump after it has been sitting for a while. When you restart it, it takes a couple of seconds for the oil to get pumped back up and start lubricating again.

If you could try a straight connector (a cheap plastic one should be suffice for experimenting) or borrow a bleeder from someone, then you can work out if it is the unit at fault or a problem with the installation. If you borrow a bleeder just close it off completely. You should then be running minimal boost, and if you aren't then there must be a problem with the installation.

Okay, I forgot about the stock BOV (having a relocated one does that for you). In that case there is nothing obvious wrong with the installation. Have you tried puting a normal bleeder in the same position? Or what happens when you put a straight connector in instead of the controller? *edit - Yes I have an SR20 (180sx).

^^^^ If you posted a better pic of where the hoses all lead too then it would be helpful. When I got mine from Mark and prior to making any adjustments, it was running 8psi. Previously with my GFB bleeder fully closed, it would be on 6psi. This is how mine is setup:

Actually that's not quite true. I am getting huge flutter now and the mods which could be contributing to it are: 1) Stainless steel intake pipe 2) large k&n filter (but will be replacing soon with smaller Apexi item). 3) Plumback / Atmo BOV. I have not relocated the AFM, running a z32 in the stock position. However right now, my flutter would do many VLs proud. My bov is functioning as it should too. I guess the air that is being plummed back is hitting the turbo from the intake side, causing the noise. ps. I do not want as much flutter as I have, mainly because I have kept the car reasonably stock looking, but if it's dosen't sound stock then what's the point.

I have the 8/6 HR ones in my 180sx. It's not too low, and still gets good traction. Ride comfort is better than I expected. Seems to handle nicely, though I have only street driven it since getting them intsalled, so can't really comment on this aspect at the moment.

There was a topic on NS.com similar to what you are experiencing. One person suggested a solution that seemed to work for them: